So I am preparing to do the dual pass intercooler install.

I am planning on doing the high performance version of the install with the extra tank. However I am a bit confused on the air bleed hose part? Do we actually drill and tap a hole in the passenger side of the intercooler and install the 1/4 inch air bleed hose?

I have setup a small 1/8 NPT to 1/4 inch barb fitting with a .040 orifice like the instructions say, but they are so vauge on where to install this AIR bleed hose

I figured that it would go on the passenger side at the high point possible to allow air to escape and a small flow out coolant to exit (hence the tiny orifice size)

Basically I put a .040 brass nitrous jet in a 1/8npt to 1/4 barb fitting and got a 90 degree joint to accomplish this vague task...

Here are my picture of what I have.

I used a dab of jb weld to hold the jet inside the fitting as the fit is snug but still could slip out.

 

Yes i do think you have to drill and tap your intake.There instructions do suck yes Ill agree cause I was looking at them on crateenginedepot adn they are very vague about that step.

 

Wait what is that for??? Some kind of bleed assembly or something?

 

Yes... Basically without it I think your are guarentee'd to have some air stuck in the system. I don't think it's a huge deal because it's not a hydraulic system so it's not going to put you in a life threatening situation, but if there is air the intercooler isn't doing the best it could.

 

So anyone done the extended stage 3 intercooler setup ?

 

I've been wondering about the air bleed part too, I thought maybe the hose just hung there with a shut-off on it to bleed ari out. I am curious as well how this compared to a stock end plate with big heat exchanger.

 

I'll give you a hint...... Look at the top of the heat-exchanger, you may find a threaded tap!

 

Hey Zinner

I have been trying to figure that out myself.
It seems to me it would just have to hang to bleed air.

 

I was wondering if you could vac bleed the system with a mity vac just like the clutch. I think it would work the same way, and you wouldn't have to make this adapter and stuff.

 

No it doesn't really work, I tried it with mine and didn't help much. Basically I found that starting the pump and letting it run until the fluid almost empties out of the little filler neck, then stop the pump and put more fluid in, repeat until the fluid stops dropping. It takes FOREVER but I'd have to say 98-100% of the air out of my system.

 

so..... has any one drilled anything yet? still waiting to some one do it right before I go drilling away.

 

I drilled the end plate only with mine. Thats it, I didn't do any bleeder valve or anything.

 

Anyone look into this. just wondering since i plan on doing this sometime before spring

 

there is a hole in the stock he with a plug in it on the top pass side. take the plug out and
put in the set up you have. You don't have to drill anything.

 

Zinner, by saying the "high performance" and "extended" version, you mean by adding an intercooler reservoir too? That way you have the dual pass plate, plus a reservoir to hold more coolant. What are you guys using for the reservoir tank, and where are you getting it from? Thanks

 

You can buy the tank and the cap here.

http://www.crateenginedepot.com/stor..._ID=196&Page=2

 

Thanks!

 

Where are you guys mounting the tank? Sorry for all the questions, thanks for the help.

 

i believe it shows pictures of where it is mounted in the ced instruction guide.

 

I mounted my tank on the open studs on the strut tower adn thats whee the instructions show the tank mounted also.

 

Thanks buddy. That's where I have my water/meth injection tank, so I'm going to have to think of somewhere else...

 

maybe in the trunk with the meth

 

That's because the cheap pump I bought had some air leaks and caused the fluid to foam. A good vacuum pump should work great IMO. The method you used took several hours to complete.