So, in other words, I can mount it exactly where the strut is now, but I'll just have to drill a few holes..??

 

I have this same hood and im just using hood pins to keep it even with the fenders cuz the hood itself was molded weird and couldnt be adjusted to fit right.

 

The fitment it's self is just fine now, but I guess the strut is gonna mess it up..

 

had mine on for a year and a half with no strut problem.

 

good points I am finding the same the stock strut is so strong it forces the hood up at the front attachement point on the hood, even with our carbon hoods that have a full underframe. We pulled the strut off and use a redline prop rod. But if anyone can come up with a 24 inch weaker gas strut that would be best, but probably not worth the effort...prop it up like a Redline lol

 

Yes.

 

just so you know, if you dont care about the top being CF then your wasting money buying a cf hood.
as in truth. all our cheap aftermarket "cf" hoods arent actually "cf" hoods.
they are fiberglass hoods, with a wrap of CF on the top.
a true CF hood would cost FAR more.

so if all you care about is weight reduction, and you want to paint anyway, buy a fiberglass hood.

 

CF hoods for my M start around $1500 and top out at $5000!!!!!! Those hoods are made of REAL CF not just a wrap. Nomy is right once again.

 

So how much would it cost to do a professional re-clear? Or should I look into just doing it myself for probably 1/3 the cost..?