HID's
I called in some help over on hid planet, and they gave me the exact response I was looking for.
halogens do not spike power draw like hid ballasts do. yes there are some ballasts that can safely power up on 16 gauge wire like matsushita gen3, but many other ballasts oem and kit alike can sometimes draw 20 amps on startup. over time this will destroy stock thin wiring. most headlight oem harness i know of, esp on cheaper cars, is barely 18 gauge if youre lucky. there is no way that wire is rated to draw all that power for hids. halogens draw a max of 5 amps each for a total of 10 amps for both sides. look at this wire size chart and the actual rated power (fuse) they can draw. i bet its alot different than what noobs are making up in their head about a thin wire being able to draw 16 amps. for the record i have power hungry hella gen3 ballasts and my wire harness so far hasnt blown the 15 amp fuse i have. i know im pushing it a bit with 14 gauge wire, but i know if it messes up, all i have to do is rip the wires out and throw it away with no harm done. i would much rather ruin a roll of $2 wire instead of an expensive and complicated oem wiring system that i propbably will not be able to fix.


I got Mitsubish vs Denso test number and looks like Mitsubish hit about 11A and Denso hit about 14A at cold start.
Mitsubishi G3-5 ballast has max current limitting circuit and won't go over about 11A at cold start. ( G6(most say G5-smaller package one) has ballast circuit re-design and I don't know about newer model, newer model IC was outsourced<not by mitsubishi> and fewer FETs, worked on production cost but I am not sure if efficiency impoved..)
Denso, however, did hit over 14A at start up and initial boost period calucuration curve is rougher than Mitsubishi.

Obiously, much more than what halogen bulb based designed volume at start up.
Initial boost period(high current draw period) especially first 4-10 seconds reach higher current draw.
I think perople try to argue with OP mentioned "16A" number comes from something like
American Wire Gauge table and AWG Electrical Current Load Limits with skin depth frequencies
Probably 18AWG wire I assume
For example, 18AWG is rated 16A in ideal stand alone single line condition, (if it bundled together in packed small condition, down to 10A).
Normally, when design wire size, they reserve 100% margine safety rate, so consider half of rated number is reasonable design size.
Also, ambient temprature affect wire size choice, higher the temprature, wire itselfs resistance gets high, in high temprature condition, bigger wire size shoould be considered.
As well as length of wires, if bundledwith other wires etc..
And momentaly max current capacity and constant current capacity also differs,,so it's really case by case.
18AWG---> for about upto 5-8A constant use, but for vehicle use, about upto 5A constant use I would say.
16AWG---> 8-11A, so I would say upto 8A constant use
what important is
"fail safe"
It won't kill wire instantly by exceeding momentaly max current rate, but over time, it will shorten life and risking in margine range.
Epecially, if someone just digest number of 18AWG=16A max, not good idea to say it's OK we have max 16A rated wire.
Super simple process, just add on safe size wire and relay, isolate whatever add on system from factory lines.
Mitsubishi G3-5 ballast has max current limitting circuit and won't go over about 11A at cold start. ( G6(most say G5-smaller package one) has ballast circuit re-design and I don't know about newer model, newer model IC was outsourced<not by mitsubishi> and fewer FETs, worked on production cost but I am not sure if efficiency impoved..)
Denso, however, did hit over 14A at start up and initial boost period calucuration curve is rougher than Mitsubishi.

Obiously, much more than what halogen bulb based designed volume at start up.
Initial boost period(high current draw period) especially first 4-10 seconds reach higher current draw.
I think perople try to argue with OP mentioned "16A" number comes from something like
American Wire Gauge table and AWG Electrical Current Load Limits with skin depth frequencies
Probably 18AWG wire I assume
For example, 18AWG is rated 16A in ideal stand alone single line condition, (if it bundled together in packed small condition, down to 10A).
Normally, when design wire size, they reserve 100% margine safety rate, so consider half of rated number is reasonable design size.
Also, ambient temprature affect wire size choice, higher the temprature, wire itselfs resistance gets high, in high temprature condition, bigger wire size shoould be considered.
As well as length of wires, if bundledwith other wires etc..
And momentaly max current capacity and constant current capacity also differs,,so it's really case by case.
18AWG---> for about upto 5-8A constant use, but for vehicle use, about upto 5A constant use I would say.
16AWG---> 8-11A, so I would say upto 8A constant use
what important is
"fail safe"
It won't kill wire instantly by exceeding momentaly max current rate, but over time, it will shorten life and risking in margine range.
Epecially, if someone just digest number of 18AWG=16A max, not good idea to say it's OK we have max 16A rated wire.
Super simple process, just add on safe size wire and relay, isolate whatever add on system from factory lines.
$35-$50 for a harness is very cheap insurance / peace of mind and correct me if I'm wrong but aren't you also getting full voltage from the battery to your lights 100% of the time. You can't say that about OEM wiring.
I've used an H4 harnesess way before I had HID. The increase in output from a Halogen bulb was remarkable.
IMO, there is no argument.
I've used an H4 harnesess way before I had HID. The increase in output from a Halogen bulb was remarkable.
IMO, there is no argument.
Alright quick question then. I bought the shitty type Xentec slim digital ballasts with 8000k bulbs, with no relay. I havent had a relay for about 2 years now since I bought my car. The first set i bought with my 1st gen projectors worked beautifully. now that i install these xentec bs i have like a not as bright light coming out, and they flicker. To be completely honest what would you do.
1 get a relay harness and see if that helps up the voltage
or
2 get a brand new set from buyhids.com and get a relay with it.
Also second question. on the H1 bulbs if anyone has them for there 1st gen. I seen 2 tabs on the bulbs and had a fitment issue because the bulb wouldnt go all the way in. hopefully you know what im talking about. but anyways I shaved those 2 tabs off of each bulb and stuck it in and actually worked great. I talked to Buyhids.com and they said "did i drill new holes into the projector to allow the bulb to fit correctly"...WHAT!!! what the he'll does that mean. drill!!!??? were you supposed to, where at exactly. the 1st gens had h1s to begin with and i noticed the tabs on them were smaller than the tabs on the xentec ****.
any one else have this issue? or what the he'll am i supposed to be drilling? i dont think your supposed to drill ANYTHING IN THE PROJECTOR!!! correct me if im wrong.
1 get a relay harness and see if that helps up the voltage
or
2 get a brand new set from buyhids.com and get a relay with it.
Also second question. on the H1 bulbs if anyone has them for there 1st gen. I seen 2 tabs on the bulbs and had a fitment issue because the bulb wouldnt go all the way in. hopefully you know what im talking about. but anyways I shaved those 2 tabs off of each bulb and stuck it in and actually worked great. I talked to Buyhids.com and they said "did i drill new holes into the projector to allow the bulb to fit correctly"...WHAT!!! what the he'll does that mean. drill!!!??? were you supposed to, where at exactly. the 1st gens had h1s to begin with and i noticed the tabs on them were smaller than the tabs on the xentec ****.
any one else have this issue? or what the he'll am i supposed to be drilling? i dont think your supposed to drill ANYTHING IN THE PROJECTOR!!! correct me if im wrong.
The stock wiring has a 10 Amp fuse, I haven't blown it yet... Just saying.
Obviously check your ballast, but my ballast says 8 amps is peak power.
But of course run miles of wiring, since apparently according to some adding a relay somehow boosts voltage.
Obviously check your ballast, but my ballast says 8 amps is peak power.
But of course run miles of wiring, since apparently according to some adding a relay somehow boosts voltage.
9007 HID Kit it comes with a relay
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