Air Splitter Installed . Finally
Joined: 12-23-09
Posts: 12,643
Likes: 7
From: Mt. Pleasant S.C.
The fans only come on at a certain temp anyways. It might do something like create a bit of suction to help pull more air in through the grill. Im sure it wouldnt be blowing air from under the car with dust dirt etc.
Joined: 12-23-09
Posts: 12,643
Likes: 7
From: Mt. Pleasant S.C.
Of course you can prove it easily enough.
yea it's already been done, was a few redlines that decided they were gonna take theirs off then wondered why their ect was sky high just cruising but if you wanna try it go for it lol.
Read this. (NASCAR race cars have air dams. Any number of reasons come to mind:
To create aerodynamic down-force and thus improve the grip of front tires.
To make the car faster by reducing drag (by moving air out to the sides before it creates turbulence underneath.)
To improve gas mileage.) These seem more plausable reasons for the air dam.But their air dams are right in the front. Ill have to look a a couple other cars to see what they have
To create aerodynamic down-force and thus improve the grip of front tires.
To make the car faster by reducing drag (by moving air out to the sides before it creates turbulence underneath.)
To improve gas mileage.) These seem more plausable reasons for the air dam.But their air dams are right in the front. Ill have to look a a couple other cars to see what they have
Last edited by mongorat427; Mar 18, 2012 at 11:45 PM.
Joined: 12-23-09
Posts: 12,643
Likes: 7
From: Mt. Pleasant S.C.
As you pointed out, Mongo. They have air dams and splitters up front to keep air from entering underneath the car creating turbulence and lift, and additionally, to promote downforce.
GM put an air dam under your radiator to channel air up and through the radiator.
Easy enough to test. Couple minutes tops and it is off. A sheet of plastic and 5 minutes with some wire ties mocks up a simple, crude pan. Take it for a drive, see what happens. Investment is less than an hour and a handful of wire ties.
GM put an air dam under your radiator to channel air up and through the radiator.
Easy enough to test. Couple minutes tops and it is off. A sheet of plastic and 5 minutes with some wire ties mocks up a simple, crude pan. Take it for a drive, see what happens. Investment is less than an hour and a handful of wire ties.
info on vortex gens is all here, Vortex Generators for Enhanced Aerodynamics :: Sigma Automotive
fab some canards also, they help hold the front end down in straightaways, keep at it, n post results on street (fuel economy and such) as well as at the track as the build moves on, once u got prototypes i will prolly move towards ur finished product with some cf for weight and looks, well mostly looks, u get the point lol
Last edited by bobbyjohn681; Mar 19, 2012 at 12:20 AM.
the unnecessary criticism doesn't help him progress with the idea one bit dick....specially after he said street/track car, i actually in for results to see were it can be improved w/ adjustment to make it work and still have ground clearance for the street if he so chooses to remain a street car, advise rather then slammin the ****** to the pavement is what hes really lookin for im sure
the unnecessary criticism doesn't help him progress with the idea one bit dick....specially after he said street/track car, i actually in for results to see were it can be improved w/ adjustment to make it work and still have ground clearance for the street if he so chooses to remain a street car, advise rather then slammin the ****** to the pavement is what hes really lookin for im sure
An undertray should extend the whole length of the car. You biggest gains will be seen making it go to cover the whole subframe, in theory. Properly placed louvers can help remove heat from the engine bay and provide a marginal downward suction to the road by removing air pressure in the engine bay.
A well setup cooling system should be fine without the air damn. It couldn't hurt to add some directional directing behind the bumper to channel air the radiator, but I don't feel its of the largest concern.
But again, to notice any actual effects from any of these mods, the car needs to be hugging the ground. There's much better ways to achieve better handling then through aerodynamics in this scenario.
And if you feel you hit cones at times, a clear bra is a great way to keep the paint looking great. I haven't seen a cone crack bumpers from a light hit.
less drag underneath car by creating a higher pressure underneath, therefore letting it hunker towards the ground (low pressure moves to fill high pressure), make a rear splitter too with a couple vents on top like they have for evos and ****, jus warm the plastic up with a propane torch and bend till desired, if you want to go as far as creating a under pan to clear exhaust and susp depending on how serious u take ur auto crossing, it would help also, the smother the air has to flow under the car the more downforce u have for cornering harder @ higher speeds, higher downforce= higher traction son, look at lemans cars for info on this if need be, some vortex gens help on top of rear window and under rear bumper to like on the evo mr's, create low pressure post rear window for better fuel economy and helps slighlty in cornering by creating a sail like effect and holding the ass end in line, dont look like much but every bit helps
info on vortex gens is all here, Vortex Generators for Enhanced Aerodynamics :: Sigma Automotive
fab some canards also, they help hold the front end down in straightaways, keep at it, n post results on street (fuel economy and such) as well as at the track as the build moves on, once u got prototypes i will prolly move towards ur finished product with some cf for weight and looks, well mostly looks, u get the point lol
info on vortex gens is all here, Vortex Generators for Enhanced Aerodynamics :: Sigma Automotive
fab some canards also, they help hold the front end down in straightaways, keep at it, n post results on street (fuel economy and such) as well as at the track as the build moves on, once u got prototypes i will prolly move towards ur finished product with some cf for weight and looks, well mostly looks, u get the point lol
Looks good Jeff. Are you trying to stay legal in any reasonable class or are you just going to extend it back to the rear of the subframe? As high as it is I doubt any real reduction in lift is going to be seen unless it is extended far back, but some oems claim to reduce lift with tiny "splitters" so who knows. I think your main customer is going to be buying it for looks any way when it comes down to it, and when it comes to that it fits the bill.
Looks good Jeff. Are you trying to stay legal in any reasonable class or are you just going to extend it back to the rear of the subframe? As high as it is I doubt any real reduction in lift is going to be seen unless it is extended far back, but some oems claim to reduce lift with tiny "splitters" so who knows. I think your main customer is going to be buying it for looks any way when it comes down to it, and when it comes to that it fits the bill.
I wouldn't remove it unless you are bringing the splitter all the way to the rear of the subframe, at which time it obviously won't be serving any purpose. Not sure how much it will be doing with the splitter that low either.
someone has a video on youtube of a tuft test with vortex generators on a few cars... i doubt you'd see any difference on a cobalt with the shark fins on the roof, our rear glass is at a pretty flat angle...
I was thinking under the rear lip. I saw a couple good articles on those and they really work. Im looking at adapting a blade style spoiler like John Powell has on his ride . I just need to find the proper angle.
Fixing the rear spoiler is an excellent first step. It doesn't create downforce from factory....


