Lightweight Parts
#51
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Lightweight is great but...
According to the most racing references, 10lbs of weight reduction nets you about 1hp of net effective value - maybe a bit less. I can state that my Cobalt SS, with the GM stage I and other parts I have alredy installed, has so much torque and hp that I can easily spin fresh Hoosier 285/30 x 18 A6 slicks at the start and in turns - so I'm having to use throttle control (less throttle) to get faster, I can't just stab the gas and go - so do I really need more net effective torque and hp?
If I was road racing (which I can't afford), more hp particularly would be great because I'm pushing a lot of air at road racing speeds (100+ mph). I'm autocrossing (speeds of about 60 mph) so torque is a bigger deal -- and I can't use it all right now...
I've done many of the bigger savings discussed, like Cold Air and a custom bent 3" exhaust with the resonater and stock muffler removed (I use a simple 3" ID glasspack - not even a cool tailpipe), I've replaced the stock driver's seat with a light racing seat, I bought the car new without a sunroof to save weight, but beyond this everything else become $$$ in -- weight out. Custom, lighter wheels (track use only, they aren't DOT legal) can easily cost more than $1000 each - what's the value return on that? I plunk down about $1500 for a full set of Hoosiers and go through at least a set (sometimes more) each year - those $$$ are worth more to me than $1000 wheels. And racing tires don't get any lighter BTW - they are already as light as can be made -- my Hoosier 285 A6s weigh about 20 lbs each, so do BFGs, Kumhos, Goodyears, Hankooks, etc., etc.
So how much money do you spend and how much capability to you reduce to get maybe 10 hp value return? I don't know the best answer but I do know that I've already had to make some of those decisions.
At least one guy (it's on this site somewhere) removed everything he could off our Cobalt, gutted the interior, no carpets, no sound deadening, no seats, no head rests, no side panel facias, no spare tire, sub-woofer, etc. -- he saved a total of less than 300lbs from his gutted Cobalt -- about 30 hp worth of lightness. And it isn't legal to run like that anywhere except 'real' road racing or drag racing. If you just want to look cool, go for it, but if you're planning to run the car somewhere, check the rules first. Carbon fiber hoods and trunks which really are lighter than stock, for example, throw you up a class or two in SCCA.
I'll admit that I've already gone a bit the other way, I have installed an autopower competition rollbar which added about 50 lbs to my overall weight - I've probably balanced my current weight saving with the added weight of the rollbar (I really want to try time attack some day).
I'm waiting for someone to suggest lighter brakes, drilled rotors for example, which mean less braking because more mass, not less, equals better thermal efficiency.
An alternative for example, or perhaps a question: might it make better sense to add a big, heavy trailer hitch; a bigger, heavier battery; and a heavier spare to get a better front-rear balance on our FWD car? I don't know the answer to this but it bears thought.
I don't want to throw either water or gas on this thread, I'm not trying to be a schmuck, this isn't intended to be inflammatory, I just want to add some additional thoughts to the process.
Scott
According to the most racing references, 10lbs of weight reduction nets you about 1hp of net effective value - maybe a bit less. I can state that my Cobalt SS, with the GM stage I and other parts I have alredy installed, has so much torque and hp that I can easily spin fresh Hoosier 285/30 x 18 A6 slicks at the start and in turns - so I'm having to use throttle control (less throttle) to get faster, I can't just stab the gas and go - so do I really need more net effective torque and hp?
If I was road racing (which I can't afford), more hp particularly would be great because I'm pushing a lot of air at road racing speeds (100+ mph). I'm autocrossing (speeds of about 60 mph) so torque is a bigger deal -- and I can't use it all right now...
I've done many of the bigger savings discussed, like Cold Air and a custom bent 3" exhaust with the resonater and stock muffler removed (I use a simple 3" ID glasspack - not even a cool tailpipe), I've replaced the stock driver's seat with a light racing seat, I bought the car new without a sunroof to save weight, but beyond this everything else become $$$ in -- weight out. Custom, lighter wheels (track use only, they aren't DOT legal) can easily cost more than $1000 each - what's the value return on that? I plunk down about $1500 for a full set of Hoosiers and go through at least a set (sometimes more) each year - those $$$ are worth more to me than $1000 wheels. And racing tires don't get any lighter BTW - they are already as light as can be made -- my Hoosier 285 A6s weigh about 20 lbs each, so do BFGs, Kumhos, Goodyears, Hankooks, etc., etc.
So how much money do you spend and how much capability to you reduce to get maybe 10 hp value return? I don't know the best answer but I do know that I've already had to make some of those decisions.
At least one guy (it's on this site somewhere) removed everything he could off our Cobalt, gutted the interior, no carpets, no sound deadening, no seats, no head rests, no side panel facias, no spare tire, sub-woofer, etc. -- he saved a total of less than 300lbs from his gutted Cobalt -- about 30 hp worth of lightness. And it isn't legal to run like that anywhere except 'real' road racing or drag racing. If you just want to look cool, go for it, but if you're planning to run the car somewhere, check the rules first. Carbon fiber hoods and trunks which really are lighter than stock, for example, throw you up a class or two in SCCA.
I'll admit that I've already gone a bit the other way, I have installed an autopower competition rollbar which added about 50 lbs to my overall weight - I've probably balanced my current weight saving with the added weight of the rollbar (I really want to try time attack some day).
I'm waiting for someone to suggest lighter brakes, drilled rotors for example, which mean less braking because more mass, not less, equals better thermal efficiency.
An alternative for example, or perhaps a question: might it make better sense to add a big, heavy trailer hitch; a bigger, heavier battery; and a heavier spare to get a better front-rear balance on our FWD car? I don't know the answer to this but it bears thought.
I don't want to throw either water or gas on this thread, I'm not trying to be a schmuck, this isn't intended to be inflammatory, I just want to add some additional thoughts to the process.
Scott
#52
I'm not sure your balt is the heaviest. I have a trailer hitch on mine (before I started trailering the car, I used to haul a tire-trailer with the slicks/rain tires), I have a stock battery, and I still have the sub-woofer in the back. I have removed the spare and all associated pieces and I've dropped the rear end to be level with the front, but otherwise it's stock.
So I'm not sure that anything will help, either way, I was just trying to get 'outside the box' so-to-speak.
Scott
So I'm not sure that anything will help, either way, I was just trying to get 'outside the box' so-to-speak.
Scott
#53
Senior Member
iTrader: (5)
how heavy do you think the trailer hitch is? bc my subs are about 60lb each i have 2 48lb batteries at least 3 35lb packs of damp pro (not to mention the rest of the sound dampening i have) 2 spools of 1/0 wire most of a spool of 2/0 wire half of a spool of 8g wire a 1/0 amp kit 4g amp kit and speaker wire galore. my sub amp is about 40lb then theres my 5 mids amps and then both amp racks. speakers + pods.
ya i got some junk im my trunk
ya i got some junk im my trunk
#55
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#56
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http://www.corner-carvers.com/forums...ad.php?t=42147
May have to be a member to view some pics.
Last edited by Mark Aubele; 09-24-2011 at 07:13 PM.
#57
Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
I'm always jealous when I look at well setup BMWs. They are a joy to drive. There are times that I regret letting go of my E30 M3. Gonna be REAL hard to compete against a car like that in an SS.
edit: I lied. I just made it to the end of that thread. I had just looked at the first two pages or so earlier. I was reminded why I hate working on every German car I've ever owned.
edit: I lied. I just made it to the end of that thread. I had just looked at the first two pages or so earlier. I was reminded why I hate working on every German car I've ever owned.
Last edited by Wangspeed; 09-24-2011 at 11:46 PM.
#58
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Thread Starter
Build Thread
No problem, let me dig it up.
Vorshlag BMW E46: DSP Auto-x Project - Corner-Carvers Forums
May have to be a member to view some pics.
Vorshlag BMW E46: DSP Auto-x Project - Corner-Carvers Forums
May have to be a member to view some pics.
Slowbalt
#59
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Great build thread. Reminds me why I sold my previous BMW's. Expensive to get power. So I really don't know where the big power some people say the BMW has in DSP. I think they are below 300, and in reference to weight I hear some are below 2700 but have not seen one or had someone actually say there car was 2700 let alone 2600.
Slowbalt
Slowbalt
#60
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Thread Starter
So my thinking is lets say 250 max, lets say 2700, we can be at 300 easy, and be at the same weight. Same size tires. I think we can give them a run for their money. Yes we have FWD, however you know in the wet you have to give us the advantage. Dry??? My thinking is it will be close.
But Mark, you have personal knowledge of BMW's being in the 2600, 2700 legally? Again, I have heard but never seen. It just seems to difficult for a 3200 - 3400 lb car to lose that much weight and still be in SP.
Slowbalt
But Mark, you have personal knowledge of BMW's being in the 2600, 2700 legally? Again, I have heard but never seen. It just seems to difficult for a 3200 - 3400 lb car to lose that much weight and still be in SP.
Slowbalt
#61
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So my thinking is lets say 250 max, lets say 2700, we can be at 300 easy, and be at the same weight. Same size tires. I think we can give them a run for their money. Yes we have FWD, however you know in the wet you have to give us the advantage. Dry??? My thinking is it will be close.
But Mark, you have personal knowledge of BMW's being in the 2600, 2700 legally? Again, I have heard but never seen. It just seems to difficult for a 3200 - 3400 lb car to lose that much weight and still be in SP.
Slowbalt
But Mark, you have personal knowledge of BMW's being in the 2600, 2700 legally? Again, I have heard but never seen. It just seems to difficult for a 3200 - 3400 lb car to lose that much weight and still be in SP.
Slowbalt
I just don't think the Cobalt can be competitive at Solo2 DSP (nationally that is). The BMW's just seem to work better than the sum of their parts. But that is me being afraid to put the work in (I am also much more of hillclimb/Solo1 guy than an autocrosser). I applaud the effort, I just don't see too many areas to drop the weight necessary to be competitive.
Back when I had my BMWs (two consecutively), I found a bunch of information hidden on Bimmerforums. Searching got me the information I needed, which ended up with me just being discouraged at the money guys were spending to be competitive.
Keep working at it though. I wish you the best of luck.
#62
Member
Thread Starter
Thanks for the first hand info. I really had no idea about the weight. I thought we had them beat by 300-400 lbs.
I can say the BMW is just a great car overall.
Slowbalt
I can say the BMW is just a great car overall.
Slowbalt
#63
Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
This is why I hate undamped aftermarket pulleys.
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/2-0l...broken-263184/
Underdrive or lightweight accessory pulleys? Go for it. Crank pulley? Leave it be, unless you're talking something very nice like ATI, etc.
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/2-0l...broken-263184/
Underdrive or lightweight accessory pulleys? Go for it. Crank pulley? Leave it be, unless you're talking something very nice like ATI, etc.
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