yippie

 

Made more progress on the bike. New fairings are on the way so i decided to get to work on the bike. Removed the Lower right and left fairings, Center right and left fairings, the Upper fairing (cowl), tail fairing and, front fender, wind screen and mirrors. While i was at it i decided to change my shifter to GP Style which means instead of 1 down and 5 up, its now 1 up and 5 down. For those of you that know nothing about bikes the way bike transmissions work is your gears go like this if you can picture being on the bike and how you are moving the shifter with your foot...

6
5
4
3
2
N
1


By move the shifter assembly a certain way i can reverse that order so it looks like this...

1
N
2
3
4
5
6


By doing this, this allows me to make it easier to shift up in gears while racing the bike. Heres some pictures of the work done today.









And yes i put my seats back on which looks funny. But thats where my Power Commander and Battery are and i dont want them getting wet if my bike cover leaks.

 

2 hours worth of sanding with 180 grit sand paper..did about another 1 1/2 hours after this picture of sanding







1st coat of primer/filler




6 coats of primer and wet sanded using 180, 300, 600, 800, 1000, 1500 and 2000 grit.





Put about 7-8 hours into that tank today. Still gotta touch up that little spot you can see on the side/bottom of the tank after all the primer was done and do base coat and wet sand that, colour coats, clear coats and polish

 

Well after careful consideration the s/c is staying on the car until I find a buyer for the whole kit. If I find a decent deal on a car then everyhting will be parted out. That being said I now am going to be ripping the s/c off to do some more painting and plugging the top sensor hole. Also picking up some s/c oil this week and re doing my seal job on the bolts(small leak around two bolts) I just finally ordered some plugs that work better as well so I can finally stop getting a missfire code. Hopefully this week I can find a welder and weld up my exhaust finally as well.

 

Damien, just wonderign what you doing to the bike? i dont understand why you using such an aggresive grit sand paper..
also, did you use eitching primer on the bare metal spots?
if you paint that tank as it looks now you will have ALOT of sanding marks in it.
i know im no painter, but i have been friends with a few painters and i listen to them closely so i learn how to do things.

 

yea i used the wrong type of primer and i got alot of sanding marts. I dont care though, i knew this wasnt going to turn out but its just something to do until i can get the bike into a shop to get the tank professionally painted. Since my fairings were all busted up, i orderd aftermarket ones. Which are black and red. I didnt want to ride around with black/red fairings with a blue gas tank so i used the aggressive sand paper to strip the blue away. I should have used abit of body filler afterwords but i got lazy. Like i said, i knew it wasnt going to look perfect, just temp work until i can get the bike into the shop.

 

One of the few times we agree ... i wasnt going to say n e thing but when you paint on primer i sand the prime with no higher than 800 grit. says you went up to 2k which u couldn't have if u can still see the scratches. 2k is my last stage paper i use on clear coat to get little bits or orange peal texture out. followed by a compound. i can see 120 to cut the paint completely to metal for some hardcore rashes / scratches but like chris said hope u used an etch primer for that bare metal. GL with the painting post up pics of the finished product god knows there are enough in progress shots (just bustin ur ***** )

 

Well im still learning so ill take your guys comments into consideration. Are you able to sand over clear coat? I thought it would make the finish really cloudy.

Heres some pictures of what it looks like now.









Was going to polish with compound today but now im curious on how you sand over clear coat.

 

give your clear ample time to dry ... i always take longer than necessary like 2 - 3 days... (but i really don't like having to re-do things lol)

its a wet sand so soak ur paper in a bucket of water for like 10 ish mins b4 you use it i only use 2000grit some start with 1k and work up to 2000 essentially i sand for a bit rinse and let it dry... once its dry look for glossy spots those are the low spots, grab ur paper and work more on the glossy looking areas until they too look dull. once the whole surface looks dull and unfinished (no more gloss at all) take a rubbing compound (i use 3m ) and a wet rag u dont care about (its going to get stained) and giver hell following the package instructions. once u do that for a good little while take out a polish and finish it off like u would polish ur car b4 wax. should be extremely high gloss / pro looking when done... oh if at any point when u are sanding and u see color bleed through and not a white ish gray from the clear... do not pass go do not collect 200 dollars... re rough and re-clear u don't want to sand through clear coat... (thats y i start with the 2k grit takes a lot longer to sand completely through a clear)

 

thanks whitty, ill give it a shot today or tomorrow.

 

when you wanna get rid of sanding marks from when you sand the object getting ready for primer, use a high build 2 stage primer and it will get all marks out.
and also remember you dont need to use primer everytime you pait or color change. only time u need to use primer is when you are going from lets say blue, to silver, or black to white, or black to any color. if the new color you are spraying is darker then the color you have then all you need to do is sand the clear off and start into the paint and then paint it.
when i sand a object that i am going to prime, i start with 320 and sand out every deep scratch then hit the hole thing with 500, then the primer, then sand the primer with 600, and finish with 800 then spray the color, 4-5 coats, then spray about 8-10 coats of clear, then allow dry for at lease 24-48 hours to make sure its dry then wet sand.
Wet sanding from how i been doing it is, start with 1,000 grit paper, wet it for 10 mins, get a spray bottle mix water with soap, same with the bucket of water that you soak your paper in, sand the surface and go up from 1000, to 1,500, and finish with 2,000 and then do the whole compound stage, this is what alot of people call cutting and buffing a car, theres 3 different stages of compound, all with different grit of sand in them, and they are labeled in order.
but wet sanding and cutting and buffing a area is over kill.

 

actually u only need to prime bare metal u can base right over scuffed base

in damians case he only would need to high build prime if he had some dents he had to fix but in any case it's looking good but kinda looks bad orange peel to me should sand with finer grit

 

Well ill work on the tank tomorrow. Just got in from the track. Didnt do to bad, lost control once but recoverd in time that i didnt go into the grass.

 

if you have any questions you can PM me, but seems like you got things under control. I love painting bike parts, ***** easier then car parts since there easy to handle and at least when I do it, it comes out like a sheet of glass since they so curved. If you dont believe me, heres some pics, these were rusted dented disgusting pale orange harley parts. stripped, did the body work that was needed,etched, primed, blocked, painted, etc.

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y52...0226001002.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y52...226001002a.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y52...0318000800.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y52...0318000841.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y52...0318000847.jpg

 

how many coats of polishing compound should i put on? Also good work gestapo007

 

appreciate it, you got it all cleared and are just buffing it now? if so just use some 2000 grit lightly to eliminate any texture n trash, and some rubbing compound on an orbital buffer, machine polish, and then some ultra fine machine polish. At least thats what I use, but theres all sorts of different compounds you can use. I have a 3 stage setup at the house, but iv seen some badass 2 stage ones as well that i wanna get. 1 less step for the same end shine. the pics i posted never even were wetsanded or buffed

 

well im not going **** about this. Like i said, this is just something to do so my tank matches my fairings when they arrive. But its actually turning out pretty good (for my work)

 

well how does it look right now after its been cleared? its not cleared in the pictures above is it? (please say no)

 

that was a clear coat with no wet sanding afterwards. I let the paint/clear dry for about 30hours. Wet sanded, applied 3 layers of polishing compound and now im waxing it. Looks pretty good...once again...for my work, i defently wouldnt charge anyone if i did this for someone and i defently wouldnt pay anyone for a job like this. But im really happy the way it turned out so far.

Heres what it looks like now

 

doesnt look to bad rattle canned im assuming ? but yeah , not to shabby might spend some more time on the compound / polishes if it was me you can still make that paint pop

 

yea that was all rattle canned. I could have spent more time on it but oh well. Its going to be redone by the pros in a few weeks anyways. I'm really happy the way it came out and thats all that matters. I'm not looking for it to be the best or to impress people, just something to match the fairings.

 

mission accomplished good work

 

Cars being dropped off on my way to work tomorrow and the headliner is being re-upholstered in black. Then just need to figure out how to get the front and rear pillars off without the airbags going off to do them black then the interior will finally look right.

 

Lol I just had a mental picture of the airbags deploying and the look on the persons face afterwards.

 

they won't deploy.... I had mine off on my ss sc many times and they never went off.