Things I've noticed with the new 'balt
Things I've noticed with the new 'balt
* while hammering down through the gears, the clutch gets quite stiff between shifts(is this on purpose?)
*as my speed increases, my audio gets louder, but as I slow down, it goes quieter than what I started with(speed sensitive stereo?). I prefer having a stereo that stays where I put it.
*after changing the spark plugs to the NGK IX, the car threw a code. After a bit the light went out...gonna borrow a OBDII scan tool to see what came up.
*I love this car.
*as my speed increases, my audio gets louder, but as I slow down, it goes quieter than what I started with(speed sensitive stereo?). I prefer having a stereo that stays where I put it.
*after changing the spark plugs to the NGK IX, the car threw a code. After a bit the light went out...gonna borrow a OBDII scan tool to see what came up.
*I love this car.
the clutch is confusing me as to why it goes very stiff when racing through the gears.....it also requires less movement from the floor to engage it.
So this is weird....I was going to write in here about the power steering going wonky at slower speeds(my wife told me about it last week), and now there is a recall. guess I'm gonna have to look into that one at the dealership.
The code that was thrown was P0603.....I disconnected the battery while changing plugs, so that's what did it.
I noticed that on my pass side door, on the trailing edge, there is clear coat bubbling, and peeling......would this fall under factory warranty? The car is 2005, but it has way less than 100 000 kms on the odometer.....73 000 i think.
The code that was thrown was P0603.....I disconnected the battery while changing plugs, so that's what did it.
I noticed that on my pass side door, on the trailing edge, there is clear coat bubbling, and peeling......would this fall under factory warranty? The car is 2005, but it has way less than 100 000 kms on the odometer.....73 000 i think.
The reason I changed them is that I do not know who had this car prior to me, or how they treated it. I am all about getting the best fuel mileage possible(even out of a performance car), so I changed them to establish a baseline, not really an upgrade(in my mind, but when I replace parts, I normally go with the best I can get). The air filter is next to be changed, as soon as I have a dry driveway to jack up the car to facillitate removing the wheel to access the airbox.....and mod it. Oil change is scheduled for next week. Which brings me to my next question...I know the cap says mobil 1, but what about royal purple? I like the idea of it helping to keep the engine cooler than standard synthetic(this actually has been proven), as well as the other benefits it claims.
the clutch is confusing me as to why it goes very stiff when racing through the gears.....it also requires less movement from the floor to engage it.
the clutch is confusing me as to why it goes very stiff when racing through the gears.....it also requires less movement from the floor to engage it.
and for the clutch getting harder to push when revving,
the g forces created by the acceleration of your car are pushing you harder and harder into your seat(towards the back of the car), you are trying to push the clutch pedal in the oppisite direction(towards the front of your car) therefor you must overcome the resistence of the clutch as well as the g forces pushing your foot towards the back of the car to ingauge your clutch.
long story short....the higher you rev the less you will need to push in the clutch in to shift. this is due to the incressed speed of your trans. internals, which at higher rotating speeds require less movement of the clutch to slow them down to achieve a smooth shift.
and for the clutch getting harder to push when revving,
the g forces created by the acceleration of your car are pushing you harder and harder into your seat(towards the back of the car), you are trying to push the clutch pedal in the oppisite direction(towards the front of your car) therefor you must overcome the resistence of the clutch as well as the g forces pushing your foot towards the back of the car to ingauge your clutch.
and for the clutch getting harder to push when revving,
the g forces created by the acceleration of your car are pushing you harder and harder into your seat(towards the back of the car), you are trying to push the clutch pedal in the oppisite direction(towards the front of your car) therefor you must overcome the resistence of the clutch as well as the g forces pushing your foot towards the back of the car to ingauge your clutch.
So my 'balt is booked for an appointment to have the electric power assist motor changed...under the recall! it's good to see they are finally doing something about this. Of course, because it's free, they had to ask if I needed an oil change, or tires. Anything for a buck. LOL.
ALSO, I figured out the clutch problem....you're gonna laugh. My rubber floor mat doesn't fit the floor perfectly, so even if it moves half an inch, it's enough to be under the clutch pedal. That's why the problem was intermittent.
ALSO, I figured out the clutch problem....you're gonna laugh. My rubber floor mat doesn't fit the floor perfectly, so even if it moves half an inch, it's enough to be under the clutch pedal. That's why the problem was intermittent.
yeah i had that for awhile too the mat i just kick it out of the way, now my cruise doesn't work tried compressed air into the cracks still nothing....anyone know how to remove the buttons and clean underneath them???....as far as your paint pealing goes i think after 60k your fucked after 60 is just the powertrain
yeah i had that for awhile too the mat i just kick it out of the way, now my cruise doesn't work tried compressed air into the cracks still nothing....anyone know how to remove the buttons and clean underneath them???....as far as your paint pealing goes i think after 60k your fucked after 60 is just the powertrain
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roth
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Sep 26, 2015 12:16 PM



