First track run = very dissapointed
First track run = very dissapointed
Went to the track last night. Was nowhere near impressed with my times. I tried all sorts of different launches, but couldn't net a 'decent' time. Considering that these cars are supposed to do mid 14's, and some even low 14's, I was at least expecting around a 14.5-14.6; not even close. Anybody got any advice?
Sorry about the crappy format, only way I could make it look halfway legible
Run 12 was against BoostKing, (SS/TC), 13.225@106.56 on 2.121-60'
Sorry about the crappy format, only way I could make it look halfway legible
Code:
Run 1 2 3 4 5 6 60' 2.385 2.389 2.429 2.410 2.353 2.347 330' 6.599 6.486 6.608 6.571 6.425 6.460 1/8 9.962 9.774 9.977 9.905 9.715 9.772 mph 71.51 73.45 70.97 72.45 73.42 72.84 1000' 12.894 12.637 12.915 12.809 12.580 12.665 1/4 15.335 15.022 15.347 15.231 14.971 15.076 mph 93.67 95.78 94.15 94.39 95.55 94.81 temp 88* 88* 88* 88* 88* 86* time 6:00 6:06 6:12 6:39 7:45 7:58 Run 7 8 9 10 11 12 60' 2.350 2.587 2.280 2.388 2.475 2.505 330' 6.523 6.737 6.408 6.554 6.639 6.671 1/8 9.850 10.037 9.735 9.908 9.977 10.012 mph 72.71 73.33 72.26 71.89 72.59 71.81 1000' 12.747 12.905 12.635 12.820 12.879 12.927 1/4 15.160 15.298 15.052 15.242 15.294 15.345 mph 94.68 95.41 94.49 94.39 94.67 94.60 temp 86* 86* 80* 79* 79* 76* time 8:04 8:13 9:46 10:12 10:23 10:43
the first two issues that I see are time inbetween runs for a cool down, and your 60' times. IF you hot lap the car, the temps never come down thus a slower ET and MPH on an 88* day. If you go back any time soon, make sure to pop the hood and allow at least a 45 min cool down from driving in. My best ET's have come from 160*-195* engine temp on a 75ish degree night with low humidity.
A dirty air filter couldn't hurt me that bad could it? I mean, it's not black, but I'm sure that it needs changed. I've only had the car 2 months, so I don't know when it was changed last.
Kinda off topic:
Anybody that has done the airbox mod, is there a K&N that I can clamp onto the piping??
engine temp has nothing to do with it. It's all about your IAT's. You need more practice launching, and take some ice with you so that you can put it on the blower and the intake manifold between runs.
I tried launching at around 2500, feathering the clutch the whole way. I gradually lessened my time that I feathered the clutch; some times they would spin pretty hard, but I would always lift and get back on it; hence some of the really bad 60' times. But even on run #9, I had a 2.280 60', but only netted a 15.052
A dirty air filter couldn't hurt me that bad could it? I mean, it's not black, but I'm sure that it needs changed. I've only had the car 2 months, so I don't know when it was changed last.
Kinda off topic:
Anybody that has done the airbox mod, is there a K&N that I can clamp onto the piping??
A dirty air filter couldn't hurt me that bad could it? I mean, it's not black, but I'm sure that it needs changed. I've only had the car 2 months, so I don't know when it was changed last.
Kinda off topic:
Anybody that has done the airbox mod, is there a K&N that I can clamp onto the piping??
Work on getting a 2.2 60', good 1-2 and 2-3 shifts, and cool the car down good in between and you will see 14s.
his launches actually arent bad at all.
2.3s arent uncommon with stock ss/scs
and he has a 2.2 in there.
im shocked none of you noticed, look at his trap speeds.
those are WAY low.
do you shut your car down between runs and push it through the staging?
are you letting it cool after every 3 runs or so?
2.3s arent uncommon with stock ss/scs
and he has a 2.2 in there.
im shocked none of you noticed, look at his trap speeds.
those are WAY low.
do you shut your car down between runs and push it through the staging?
are you letting it cool after every 3 runs or so?
14.9 on a bone stock SS/SC is pretty decent. just work on getting your launch down & you should see some lower numbers. Take some time to let the motor cool down between runs. heat soak will kill you.
around 95 is pretty standard for stock in the summer. OP, Try again when it gets colder, i bet you'll get that 14.5 you want.
his launches actually arent bad at all.
2.3s arent uncommon with stock ss/scs
and he has a 2.2 in there.
im shocked none of you noticed, look at his trap speeds.
those are WAY low.
do you shut your car down between runs and push it through the staging?
are you letting it cool after every 3 runs or so?
2.3s arent uncommon with stock ss/scs
and he has a 2.2 in there.
im shocked none of you noticed, look at his trap speeds.
those are WAY low.
do you shut your car down between runs and push it through the staging?
are you letting it cool after every 3 runs or so?
Last edited by BlurpleSS; Aug 23, 2008 at 11:52 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
his launches actually arent bad at all.
2.3s arent uncommon with stock ss/scs
and he has a 2.2 in there.
im shocked none of you noticed, look at his trap speeds.
those are WAY low.
do you shut your car down between runs and push it through the staging?
are you letting it cool after every 3 runs or so?
2.3s arent uncommon with stock ss/scs
and he has a 2.2 in there.
im shocked none of you noticed, look at his trap speeds.
those are WAY low.
do you shut your car down between runs and push it through the staging?
are you letting it cool after every 3 runs or so?
I tried launching at around 2500, feathering the clutch the whole way. I gradually lessened my time that I feathered the clutch; some times they would spin pretty hard, but I would always lift and get back on it; hence some of the really bad 60' times. But even on run #9, I had a 2.280 60', but only netted a 15.052
A dirty air filter couldn't hurt me that bad could it? I mean, it's not black, but I'm sure that it needs changed. I've only had the car 2 months, so I don't know when it was changed last.
Kinda off topic:
Anybody that has done the airbox mod, is there a K&N that I can clamp onto the piping??
A dirty air filter couldn't hurt me that bad could it? I mean, it's not black, but I'm sure that it needs changed. I've only had the car 2 months, so I don't know when it was changed last.
Kinda off topic:
Anybody that has done the airbox mod, is there a K&N that I can clamp onto the piping??
not in the hottest part of the year me thinks.
Last edited by BlurpleSS; Aug 23, 2008 at 11:54 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
a properly cooled down stock cobalt ss should have no problem trapping in the high 90s even in 80* weather.
i would be willing to bet his car is heatsoaked to hell on every one of those runs, which would explain the low traps
i would be willing to bet his car is heatsoaked to hell on every one of those runs, which would explain the low traps
I would have to agree with you one that one Anom. I'd like to know the time difference between each run to see how long the car sat.
Look at the bottom, i believe he puts the time he made the runs, He had as little as 6 minutes between his runs. To many runs in one night brother.
i did stop after run 4 and sat for an hour, and then after around run 8 or 9, the times i posted should tell. im not new to racing, ive probably got close to 300 passes in many different vehicles, but this is the first f/i car and the first stick. i know i was heatsoacking alot at points, and thats when i stopped. i didnt even think about ice. the traps seemed high for the ET, considering the heat, so i was making power. i didnt push the car bc the track was so slow that i only had to have it running for a min or two before i could make my run. no burnouts but did dust them off at times, no water. 40 psi in rear tires, 22 in front (too low?) 1/2 tank of 93 octane (all i ever run in car)
sounds to me like you have a good working knowledge of running the car at a track.
and your driving isnt to bad at all from what i can see.
it will improve with time in the seat, these are by no means an easy car to launch.
get yourself some monitoring devices to keep an eye on your knock, IAT2 temps, timing advance
and then get some cooling mods and watch the massive difference it will make to those parameters
heres a hint, if your IAT2 is over 147, you will start pulling timing, if its over 160, your pulling ALOT.
generally without cooling, on a hot day, these cars will START a run over 140* and end at some pretty scary numbers.
not only does this put alot of risk on your engine, its robbing massive amounts of power.
at the track, if my IAT2 is over 100* when i begin my pass, it will be my last.
and the car will be parked for a minimum of 30-45 minutes.
and your driving isnt to bad at all from what i can see.
it will improve with time in the seat, these are by no means an easy car to launch.
get yourself some monitoring devices to keep an eye on your knock, IAT2 temps, timing advance
and then get some cooling mods and watch the massive difference it will make to those parameters
heres a hint, if your IAT2 is over 147, you will start pulling timing, if its over 160, your pulling ALOT.
generally without cooling, on a hot day, these cars will START a run over 140* and end at some pretty scary numbers.
not only does this put alot of risk on your engine, its robbing massive amounts of power.
at the track, if my IAT2 is over 100* when i begin my pass, it will be my last.
and the car will be parked for a minimum of 30-45 minutes.
Ice on very hot aluminium is not the best idea. If there is a strip you can drive back and forth at decent speed with low rpm to get air that will cool you off the fastest. Otherwise pop your hood and sit as long as possible.
Get stage 2. It really is crazy what kind of a difference it makes. Lots more torque for better acceleration and a higher trap. If you don't have the money for that then go with cooling mods. Just don't expect a better 60' with stage 2. I would buy tires but I am broke as hell and really have no use for a 2nd set other than running at a track. So stage 2 + cooling was my personal agenda.
This guy understands. Best mod for track is a set of tires. After tires then get cooling mods then stage 2. Or stage 2 then cooling mods. At the track heat soak and launching is a huge factor so if you only care about drag racing then tires+cooling mods help the most. On the street most races will be from a roll (usually) so stage 2 then cooling mods help more.
Get stage 2. It really is crazy what kind of a difference it makes. Lots more torque for better acceleration and a higher trap. If you don't have the money for that then go with cooling mods. Just don't expect a better 60' with stage 2. I would buy tires but I am broke as hell and really have no use for a 2nd set other than running at a track. So stage 2 + cooling was my personal agenda.
This guy understands. Best mod for track is a set of tires. After tires then get cooling mods then stage 2. Or stage 2 then cooling mods. At the track heat soak and launching is a huge factor so if you only care about drag racing then tires+cooling mods help the most. On the street most races will be from a roll (usually) so stage 2 then cooling mods help more.
Last edited by Dayn; Aug 23, 2008 at 11:07 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
If I'm going for a cooling mod...what would be the first thing to pick up?? The second?? I'm not planning on racing this thing a whole lot, since I did that with my last car and killed two transmissions (they were junk to begin with). Can't beat up my daily driver.
$43.95 seem like a good price?? I can get it from Jegs, and since I'm local, I can pick up
$43.95 seem like a good price?? I can get it from Jegs, and since I'm local, I can pick up
Last edited by terry.davis1; Aug 24, 2008 at 10:28 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
hey bro- nice to see you on the forum. ice for the win. I got my best times out of my ss/sc when I went from idle. I would net 2.2 60's all day and low 14's. you MUST let the car cool. wait until the end of the year when its cool. you will see your times come down. I would start your mods off with the dual pass end plate option B and a new heat exchanger. good luck


