Second KY stage 3 to fail on this car and it took the TOB with it; I can feel it in the pedal. All brand new parts with 2,000 miles on them; broke in as well. Awesome when your clutch doesn't even last an oil change.

Anyways, it's slipping hard in 5th but it still drives. I am thinking about Spec.
I have a Spec flywheel to use. So for Spec I am looking at the stage 2+ or stage 3+. I want a full face disc. Stage 2+ rated at 380ft/tq and the 3+ is rated at 485ft/tq.

Experiences? Life expectancy? User reviews?

Other option is a OEM flywheel and GMPP. Unknown tq rating.

Car is a bolted k04 car with LSD. I have a ZFR on it's way. Power goal is a boost ramped 400whp/400tq.

 

Why not just get gmpp?

 

I def recommend GMPP, I like it on the KO4+. Not sure if the it will hold a ZFR, but I'm sure it will as long as its not a huge boost spike and if it doesnt it will at least keep your transmission from being destroyed

 

the 2+ is a hybrid is not a true full face. the 2+ is a full face on the flywheel side pucked on the pressure plate side. the 3+ is the only full face option you have other then the gmpp. I don't recommend the gmpp because I would hate for you to have the one that slips even though everyone says it will hold. every kappa and cobalt we use spec stuff in. I have installed atleast 30 clutches between the platforms and they are all 2+ 3+ clutches. have not had to pull one out because of issues. only spec clutch I did pull out was because of a diy error that caused his throw out bearing to explode and got all over the disk so we tossed the disk and got a new one. re used the pressure plate and flywheel. after a good cleaning. I have currently 50k on my 3+ and aluminum flywheel and its still going strong. no issues what so ever. its been in 2 cobalts now.

as I told you through many pms. I have a trust in that product and do not recommend things to people to stroke them for their money or have them invest time and money into their cars to have to start over. if your going to ask me for advice trust what I tell you otherwise just ask the forum. sorry if im coming across as an ass but seeing threads pop up after I give you all the insight you could possibly need is like a disregard to what I say.

good luck with your decision.

 

I do trust what you've said; I was anti-spec before we talked honestly. I really just want to see what kind of mileage and power people are getting out of the set ups I am considering. I can decide if I wanna drop the coin on the combo you recommended or gamble and save some cash. It's not that I don't trust you, it's that I'm trying to make a decision based on the info I have now.

Plus, I like starting threads that lead to discussion with good information in them. Numbers, data, etc. Then when n00bs ask or people search there is good info to be found.

Also, I talked to Spec for a little bit today and am waiting on a couple emails from them about some questions I asked you that you didn't know the answer to. I wanted to share what they told me about their parts and years compatibility and why.

 

Oh yea, that reminds me; do you use the Spec TOB or buy an OEM one?

 

slipping in 5th? do you hammer the gas in 5th and bog the hell out of the motor or something?

got to be either install error or drivemod.... even a bad drive cant really kill a clutch in 2000 miles tho,

 

oem tob clutch pipe and fluid distribution block, oem flywheel bolts, specs pressure plate bolts,

440whp 450ftlbs was my dd tune to 6200rpm at 25psi. ive ran the car all the way up to 32psi at 7400 but I forgot what the numbers where it was so long ago and I didn't really care to go out and brag.. clutch took an ass beating and still is

 

What about Clutchmaster?

 

specs better

ky clutches have had a lot of "manufacturing defects"

 

Spec is my only aftermarket option. Clutchmasters have their own brand of pedal height issues that lead to TOB issues when you have to spend $200 to install a special master to use it.

 

Nope. Say you are cruising at 75mph and you want to move over to the right. There is a car next to you doing the same speed. Push the gas (car builds about 7-8psi) to pass them and move over.
My clutch slips at this point.
It also slips if its not hot already.
It also destroyed my TOB as well.


I have done more than half a dozen installs on these cars, it is not installer error either. This is the second KY clutch I have had that both ruined the TOB and is slipping. It also has the same shitty engagement as the previous one.
The clutch is the problem, not the driver or the install.

 

I swear either I got lucky with my kys3 being on the car for 3+ years now with zero issues (aside from a blown tob), or I just did something right. lol

 

Must be yours wasnt made on a Mon or Fri

 

I know for a fact the one that is in the car was mad on a Friday

I am thinking luck bro lol

 

man this post has me nervous. I really hate my KY stage 3. The pedal engages so high and the pedal feels softer than stock all the time almost not in a good way. I did do the braided stainless line so I don't know if that impacts anything.

Ive got 2500 miles on so far, first time I launched (1800 miles) I tried to quick slip it and it STUNK up bad, obviously driver issue but the pedal went mushy for the next several hours.

I did a pull on the highway for a bit, got well into 5th gear. Normal fast shifting not NLSing or anything crazy. and the same thing happened! Like it heated up and the pedal felt like **** and I could smell clutch. Drove normal and shifted around 3k rpms (after that thread that said try shifting at higher rpms) and its fairly back to normal now.


Still hate the engagement and don't feel comfortable on this clutch. And after paying like $1000 to get it done it pisses me the **** off. It engages so high I still feel like im learning how to drive standard all over again, I still stall from time to time.

 

Yup. It engages high as hell and it clamps hard. I stalled mine too. Mine killed my TOB about 3,000 miles into it and it would slip.
Drive on the highway in 5th, hammer the pedal. If it slips, you're done. KY seems to have some sketchy quality control.

 

I just swapped out my KY Stage 3 for a South Bend Stage 4+. I had about 20k km's on my KY, never slipped buy I'm on a stock tune ATM, engagement was uncomfortably high, that was the main reason I took it out. Now with the South Bend it feels like a different car, so much more enjoyable to drive.

 

I really wish I did more research but there doesn't seem to be a generally liked aftermarket clutch for the car. I knew several people locally that said upfront they loved the KY stage 3. Like when you asked them quick they say its great but never got into it more than a one word answer.

Im just nervous because I bought my HHR SS 3 months ago and went more into it then I thought and just figured do everything at once and have no issues. Spent $3k or so quick and don't have the $$ to redo a clutch job anytime soon.

 

Then drive it nicely and save. Taking the KY out was my best mod. I had two of them in my car and they both let me down. KY themselves will tell you they have never installed one or driven one lol.

The Facebook James fanboys love them and will say you are retarded if you ever speak ill of the clutch that James singlehandedly designed; so dont bother posting about it on there.

Spec 3+ is what Pwerks recommends. The non ratching design.

 

i find this thread very pleasing as i am rocking a stock clutch on a 7163 just a matter of time