Hello,
I haven't used the NLS feature since the fall. Since yesterday was a dry/sunny day I decided to use the NLS feature but I was unsucessful as it started grind 2nd gear so I put it back in neutral. So I tried again 3 more times every time I will pull it into second gear but it would not accelerate. It will just rev like it was in neutral. In this state it, it is difficult to push it back into neutral.(usually I would shake the shifter left and right and then i could push it in the neutral.)

I will be taking it to the dealer tomorrow. I was hoping I can give them a direction to look into for this problem. It shifts fine when it is driven normally. 2008 TC 7,000 miles.

Brian

 

did you try shifting faster.I heard if your too slow at shifting it wont engage.I could be wrong though

 

how are you supposed to do it, do you engage in competetion mode or just launch mode or neither just launch and shift into second without engaging the clutch??????? Sorry only had the car a month.

 

Ya it has to be in competitive mode for that and launch control to work
If it says launch control on th DIC then your in competitive mode.

 

damm so put it in comptetive mode launch and go right into second without engaging the clutch??? damm if it doesnt work gggrrriiiinnnnnddddd!!! lol So do it fast????

 

you dont have to be in comp mode you just have to have your trac control off to do it

 

you must push down your clutch!dont shift without pushing the clutch in!!!NLS is keeping the gas down during the shift while still depressing the clutch in

 

yes please use your clutch...

 

Odd, I've never had a problem doing it with my T/C on...and I clearly heard the single "pop" so either I manage to do a standard WOT shift every time, or the NLS works when T/C is on.

I'm going to screw around with it more as the weather improves, and the snows come off in a couple weeks so I should get better dry traction with the summers. Right now 1st, 2nd and 3rd all let go like a ***** when I do it so I can't really figure out if I'm gaining much .

To the OP, have you tried doing shifts into 2nd at high-RPM WITHOUT using a NLS, and if so did the gear engage just fine?

 

ooohhh thanks guys!!!!!!!!!!! USE CLUTCH mental note lol

 

well i have never tried it with t/c on i never drive my car with it on but i know it works out of comp mode. thanks for the info

 

WOT shift works with Traction control on. you dont have to turn it off or be in competitive mode. you must use your clutch just keep the pedal to the metal!!! shifting without WOT shift at high RPMs is fine. i have never had any problems with my WOT shifting in any gear or shifting at high RPMs without it.

WOT shift works with Traction control on. you dont have to turn it off or be in competitive mode. you must use your clutch just keep the pedal to the metal!!! shifting without WOT shift at high RPMs is fine. i have never had any problems with my WOT shifting in any gear or shifting at high RPMs without it.

 

11 replies and not one even addressed the question asked.

I have used the NLS feature before and heard the distinctive pop. The reason I grinded a gear was because I let the clutch out too soon. But I was shifting fast enough, since I have done it a few times prior.

 

Actually, if you read my post I asked you a question about NLS vs performing a normal shift at high RPMs, but apparently your eyes glazed over and you missed it. I would expect the same behaviour, and in any case it sounds as though your synchro is misaligned or broken all together, but I was curious if the behaviour was specific to using the NLS or not.

The "revving like its in neutral" means the gear is not engaged, and based on the behaviour when you have to force it back out of second gear, perhaps they synchros are binding together, though I have had a similar case where it's harder to get it out of first gear almost like it's still under load even though the clutch is completely disengaged.

I'd have the dealership inpect:

1. Shifter assembly including cables. Check for stretching, binding, etc.
2. Clutch cable in the event it's tight or stripping and isn't disengaging properly when you perform a NLS leading to more load on the transmission
3. Shift linkage (check for wear, stretched pins, etc)
4. Synchros and general transmission inspection, though don't do this until last. I never like the idea of my tranny being cracked open if it doesn't need to be

Permafried-

 

Thanks,

I took it to the dealer Friday but the guy who works on my car was not working. Over the weekend I started having problems with 4th gear. Knowing 2 and 4th gear are on the same cable i was pretty sure it was a cable problem. I got at call at 3PM saying the shifter cable was broken and it will be a few days before they get the parts for it.
So Enterprise put me in an Impala untill my Cobalt is fixed.

Brian

 

No problem. Shifter cable doesn't surprise me since my '05 2.2 started doing something similar about 2 months before trade-in, but it was intermittent and I never replaced the cable though it was inspected and felt incredibly tight but there was no visible damage to it.

Permafried-