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3rd Gear Grind

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Old 02-26-2008, 08:21 AM
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3rd Gear Grind

Well I just got my car back this past weekend after i melted the spec stage 2 clutch. So i got SPEC Stage 3 and a SPEC Flywheel installed. Now 3rd gear grinds as it goes into gear. Not so much from 4th-3rd, just mainly from 2nd-3rd. I can baby it into gear and it wont grind. Could this be my synchro? Anyone know how much it would cost to get this repaired??
Old 02-26-2008, 11:50 AM
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Found this bulletin but I dont think its you problem. Talk to YellowLT, hes having trans issues as well.



#07-07-29-001A: MG3, M86 Manual Transaxle Grinding or Growling Noise in 3rd or 4th Gear, Excessive Engagement or Disengagement Effort While Shifting into 5th or Reverse Gear, Will Not Shift into Either 5th or Reverse - (Apr 16, 2007)


Subject: MG3, M86 Manual Transaxle Grinding or Growling Noise in 3rd or 4th Gear, Excessive Engagement or Disengagement Effort While Shifting into 5th or Reverse Gear, Will Not Shift into Either 5th or Reverse Gear (Replace Complete Output Shaft Assembly)


Models: 2005-2007 Chevrolet Cobalt

2006-2007 Chevrolet HHR

2005-2006 Pontiac Pursuit (Canada Only)

2007 Pontiac G5

2003-2007 Saturn ION, VUE

with Getrag™ 5-Speed Manual Transaxle (RPOs MG3, M86)




--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

This bulletin is being updated to add additional information on 5th or reverse gear in the Subject, Condition and Cause sections of this bulletin. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 07-07-29-001 (Section 07 -- Transmission/Transaxle - Manual Transmission).


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Condition
Some customers may comment on any or all of the following conditions:

• A grinding or growling noise in 3rd or 4th gear.

• Excessive engagement/disengagement effort while shifting into 5th or reverse gear.

• The vehicle will not shift into either 5th or reverse gear.

Cause
Diagnosis of the concern will lead the technician to replace the 5th/reverse gear synchronizer assembly and/or the 5th/reverse gear blocking rings on the output shaft of the transaxle to correct the condition. In order to access either the synchronizer assembly, the blocking rings, or any other components on the output shaft, the 4th gear must first be removed from the output shaft and then reinstalled after parts have been replaced.

The Service Manual procedure for output shaft assembly states that the 4th gear will install very tight. Some dealers have been unsuccessful in achieving the press loads required to completely seat the 4th gear on the output shaft during re-assembly, resulting in these dealers replacing the entire manual transaxle assembly.

Correction
Important: Some technicians may have trouble when pressing gears on or off the output shaft of the Getrag™ MG3/M86 five-speed manual transaxle. The output shaft gears are not splined to the output shaft and are a very tight press fit.

If diagnosis leads to replacement of any components on the output shaft, dealers should follow published Service Information (SI) procedures and use the appropriate special tools to correctly re-assemble the output shaft.

Pressing Output Shaft Gears
Important: When pressing these gears on or off of the output shaft, care needs to be taken to ensure that the shaft is not nicked or have any burrs on it. (The shaft and gear need to be free of dirt or debris) Extreme care should be taken not to bind or **** the gear on the shaft. If this happens, press the gear back off the shaft and start over.

Press loads can reach 2-3 tons on the 4th fixed gear and 12-17 tons on the 3rd fixed gear (both located on the output shaft). The 3rd and 4th speed gears (on the input shaft) come off with minimal pressure but if trying to remove the 5th fixed gear and the 3rd speed gears at the same time, press loads in excess of 20 tons will not move the gear. Gears need to be removed and installed one at a time.

If dealers are not able to properly seat the 4th gear on the output shaft, a complete output shaft assembly for MG3 and M86 manual transaxles is being released as a field fix and should be used rather than replacing the manual transaxle assembly.
Old 02-27-2008, 08:56 AM
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We think it may be the snychro for 3rd....
Old 02-28-2008, 01:51 PM
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Originally Posted by PlaysWitCars
We think it may be the snychro for 3rd....
Hope for the best, prepare for the worst....its prolly a synchro....lord knows my dealership here fucked up on my reassemble for my 2nd gear grind.....they just moved the grind to 1st haha.....after taking 2 weeks to do it.....
they said there was a model change halfway through the production. Don't know, just know their tech fucked it up, broke one of my neons and didn't even fix anything
Old 02-28-2008, 01:56 PM
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If the clutch is the only thing that has changed, I would have to think it would be incomplete disengagement.
Old 02-28-2008, 02:22 PM
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I would agree with you.....if it happened on every gear.....

Unless....I read something not too long ago.....about throwout bearing loads increasing based on gear number, and if it exceeded 20 tons, it would not disengage the clutch at all....but that wouldn't account for the grind still.....the synchros should still line it up, even if your shifting at 6.5k

Last edited by avenger09123; 02-28-2008 at 02:40 PM.
Old 02-28-2008, 02:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Witt
If the clutch is the only thing that has changed, I would have to think it would be incomplete disengagement.
Bingo! Either the clutch isn't properly bled or the clutch will not disengage properly at higher revs. Spec has had issues in the past with this too.

Did they mess around with your shift linkage at all and mess them up during the clutch swap? that's another issue to look at.
Old 02-28-2008, 02:42 PM
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Originally Posted by 2K5SS/SC?
Bingo! Either the clutch isn't properly bled or the clutch will not disengage properly at higher revs. Spec has had issues in the past with this too.

Did they mess around with your shift linkage at all and mess them up during the clutch swap? that's another issue to look at.
what probably happened was the clutch wasnt bled all the way. these clutches are a BITCH to bleed, this happened to my last tranny. if you dont bleed them properly it wont disengage correctly and starts to wear the syncros. try rebleeding if possible, however it might be too late.
Old 02-28-2008, 02:55 PM
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Agreed ^^^^^ but what I don't understand is how this can be happening in such a short amount of time.....a misaligned or misbled clutch can wear down the synchros that far that fast?
Old 02-28-2008, 02:57 PM
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Originally Posted by avenger09123
Agreed ^^^^^ but what I don't understand is how this can be happening in such a short amount of time.....a misaligned or misbled clutch can wear down the synchros that far that fast?
you'd be suprised.
Old 02-28-2008, 11:13 PM
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Originally Posted by avenger09123
Agreed ^^^^^ but what I don't understand is how this can be happening in such a short amount of time.....a misaligned or misbled clutch can wear down the synchros that far that fast?
You'd be amazed how quickly you can destroy one of these trannys if something is off. Trust me as I've grenaded two 3rd gears already, went through 3 different ClutchMasters clutches until they finally got the design right and moved onto my beloved Exedy Hypersingle, and broke a set of shift linkages. Plus, my buddy did his clutch and forgot to replace the slave cylinder and it failed like it always does if you don't replace it and has had very similar issues to the OP.

PlaysWitCars, did they replace the slave cylinder when doing the clutch or did they resuse the stock one? If they reused the stock one have them pull the tranny out and replace it, or the car will only get worse.
Old 02-29-2008, 06:34 PM
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Mines getting dropped off Monday. Same deal, but 3rd to 4th to 5th & while downshifting. Thank god 10/100k.
Old 02-29-2008, 06:50 PM
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so would you all agree that getting a SPEC clutch isn't a very good route to go when replacing the clutch or is it better to go with someone else?


or is this the installers error?
Old 02-29-2008, 07:10 PM
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installer error i suppose. You jsut have to bleed the clutch properly, its insanely difficult to get all of the air out of the system. my spec clutch is the ****
Old 03-01-2008, 11:13 AM
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Exedy Hypersingle FTMFW!
Old 03-11-2008, 02:36 PM
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I just got my 08 cobalt sport less than a month ago. Some times if I shift into 4th, its not quite a grind sound but its a sound I can't explain it. I'm not sure if I'm shifting too fast into 4th? Like I'm not allowing the gears to sync fast enough? I found that if I do it slower, it won't do it. Cause it did it with 3rd once. I think I'm just shifting too fast for a normal shift. Opinions? I only ask, because my car is all stock.
Old 03-11-2008, 03:03 PM
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well it was the gear i was going into when it broke and it was the only gear that made a grinding noise when i couldnt get it into any gear....if you read my previous thread about when i first broke it you would understand. All it needs is a synchro. Had nothing to do with the clutch. Clutch setup is great btw!
Old 03-11-2008, 08:29 PM
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When I replaced my clutch under warranty, I bled the clutch with vacuum and it worked AWESOME.
I filled the Master cylider with fluid and applied vacuum to the resivor until there were no more bubbles anymore. Then, I got in the car and pump the clutch a few times and I was all set. If you try this make SURE you pump the brake pedal because it has the same effect on the brake system.
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