^^^ thanks for the input

 

Ok, nobody has done it, so none of us will have helpful information on how to do it. I think the biggest problem is going to be making the ECU work.

 

then your not a serious drag racer.

auto > manual in drag racing

and to the OP. paul is performing this swap. i would wait until he is done so he can give you all the info

 

Im just saying....

Gonna be expensive, and not necessarily worth the effort. If he really wanted to change it up he would go RWD auto with a stall kit. But we all know how easy it is to make a RWD Cobalt....

 

A "stall kit"? Please stay out of this thread it's obvious you know very little about the topic and have nothing useful to add.

 

well I guess it really depends on the goals... If he's looking for a 9 second bracket racing car, the auto would be a great option. If he's going to be running 12's, silly to swap to auto.

 

I am going to wait for Paul to finish but I was hoping I would get some other good opinions, ideas, incite, etc on the subject while I wait! Plus I think I read him say something about a 5 speed auto that he was swapping to. I am more than likely going to do the "easy' swap to the 4T45 from a HHR. So if he is doing a 5 speed auto then I am not sure how much it will help me unless the 5 speed proves to be a better option.

I agree with that. If 12's were my goal I would be finished with my car.

 

I would think that the stock 4t45 wouldn't be able to handle the power, right off the bat. Isn't it rated to like 230 ft/lbs or something like that? With basic mods you're going to be easily 100 over that, and that's if you're doing just simple basic mods.

 

I am not too concerned with the ECU honestly. The ECU should work fine if I do a complete swap. Size, mounts, axles, etc seem like the hard part now. I guess we shall see if I keep the car and go through with the swap.

I'm not too worried what the stock trans will hold... I can always have it built to handle more power for now. Plus, I will more than likely go with the 4T65 in the future when fueling gets fully resolved with these cars.

 

Its also called a stall converter. Do you know what that is??

 

Yes I know what a high stall torque converter is. Apparently you just make up your own words to describe things though, like "stall kit".

These are the only "stall kits'' google could find for me: http://www.tritonbarns.com/kit_stalls.php I have no idea how you would install one of these in a car.

Like I said before, please don't bother posting if you have nothing to helpful to add to the thread. I don't need people that have no idea what they are talking about telling me that my plans are dumb.

 

well, you're kinda asking for ideas and help, but not really telling us what you're trying to do. regardless of what you do, people will tell you that you're stupid, and doing it wrong, because people seem to not like to watch others succeed and do something different.

 

I want to swap an auto (most likely a 4T45 from an HHR) into my SS/TC... Not sure what else you need to know?

 

I could care less... but people want to know about the build, and what you're planning on doing.

 

We call it a stall kit around here. Im not sure where youre from...

Anyway, I told you why its a bad idea. If you want a good drag car, get a RWD with an auto not FWD. People have tried changing the tranny on cobalts, and its a royal EXPENSIVE pain in the ass. You can get 11's on the stock FWD tranny ( zzp almost has 10's ).

If you really want to spend a small fortune, go for it. When you run into problem after problem, dont say I didnt tell ya so.

 

not that simple lol

um just to note, the stock f35's especially with the taller gearing, suck.
3rd gear roll the car we're doing's trans exploded at 28 psi on a gt3076r.
Car is almost done, just waiting on some ss bends to finish re-working the adapter for the wastegate.


Can't really post up too much info, nor do I really want to on here.

Track times will be up though.


it's not fun, and going to be a pain in the ass with out the helping I had from a certain awesome member on this site. still a few issues needed to be iron'd out with the PCM, but it's almost there.

yeah until you wot shift a 500_+whp car and your trans explodes every race.... sure stay with the stock manual and spend $10k in a season replacing transmissions.

it's not as simple as you think

have to rewire most of the engine bay, change pedal assembly's add TCM, block off clutch line, move motor, custom mounts, custom programming, new shifter, shifter cables, rework most of the piping since the motor moves an inch forward and now straight up, rework down pipe, and if aftermarket turbo, move external wastegate, oil drain, custom axles, change wheel bearings, so far thats just about finished.

as what trans it is, not saying at this point.

 

Paul, mind sending me a PM with some details? I would love to know more about what you have done and I think I am only the 2nd person even looking into to doing this. I know you don't want to say what transmission it is but, you are not doing a 4T45 swap, correct?

 

The only time an auto swap would do anything is if you have a sickeningly fast car which very few cobalts are that fast except for Pro drag balts. The auto is used to remove driver error, mostly.

 

eh it's a re-stall here....
but anyway, that's why I"m running my rx next year. cobalt is back to a good ol daily drive, well if I ever decide to finish wiring it.

not really, I don't see those 3.82 geared f35's holding up into the 10's and that's where we are going.
bad things about f35:
horrible first gearing, horrible drop from 1st to 2nd (garbage for towing in europe), weak trans case (thin cast aluminum), shitty gears (pressed powedered metal), shitty input shafts (CI)
bad things about auto swap
a bit of a pain in the ass to do, still about the same price as the 6 speed gearing (not including labor for install). need to upgrade clutches and torque converter for real power.

good things:
clutch upgrades are cheap, and trans rebuilds are pretty cheap on the auto's
torque converter can be strengthened and restalled for @$500
consistancy, will handle the power, never fall out of boost, consistant launches.,

not posting any more info on this until the car is done, and maybe I'll post it up on here, but I doubt it.

 

Exactly why I am looking to do the swap!

I have been looking at IPT too. Worse case I can always go with there controller.

 

if you go with the 4t65 it might be better because there are more building part out there since they are then main trans for the 3800 world

 

I was speaking as general rule of thumb for sub 8 second cars. I didn't really pay attention to the power goals on this thread.

 

If it has low feasibility, and isnt the most logical thing to do, then why would someone do it? Anything can be done with enough money, but when does it become not worth it? 10k, 20k, 30k later?

I mean sure its not my money, but I would really hate to see someone spend all that cash and not be happy with the results or the long process to the end of the road. Look at victorys RWD build and the mess that has been.

 

I think I am going to start with the 4T45 for ease and then later as power goes up (likely 1-2 years) swap for the 4T65.

 

Wow. Glad I have been posting on the other forum. Too much B$ in this forum.

And i love people who keep secrets. Thats why this community is so far advanced! Go look at any other forum, and there are tons of people helping people. IDK whats so hard about that.

Marcus, I will do some more research and post up on the other forum!