On a trip to Ohio I lost clutch pressure. Another member on here told me to bleed out the system. So a buddy and I did so (brakes too) and got out all of the nasty fluid. The clutch pedal was back to normal and completely fine for about 4 days. Over the course of driving it around it slowly got mushier and it now disengages about 1/2" from the floor. Now after a bit of driving it gets to the point that it wont completely disengage and the car rolls even with the clutch all the way in and the car in gear. If I shut the car off and pump it 10 or so times it gets to a point that it disengages about 2" from the floor. It then slowly gets back to the point that it disengages 1/2" from the floor again. If I rev the car up the clutch completely goes out until I pump the pedal back up again.

Is there more air trapped in the system still? Or is the slave bad? The fluid that came out originally was badly broken down and pretty dark. When GM had my car for the past 3 weeks for accident repairs they verified there are no external leaks. I already ordered a GMPP clutch kit and new clutch tube but had it sent to my home in FL and I am still in Ohio. I plan on replacing everything when I get back next week, but I would like to get the pedal back, if possible, before I drive it back.

Ideas, advice, insight.


Edit for info****
Car is a 2006 SS/SC with 59k on it now. Stock clutch, GM stage 2.
Also adding that after I shut the car off and pump it up it never really comes all the way back to the stock disengagement point. But if the car sits over night or so the clutch seems fine for the first 30 minutes of driving. It seems to be once it gets nice and hot that the clutch sinking starts.

 

You could try bleeding it but does sound like the TOB is going out

 

Same thing happened to mine. Your TOB/Slave is shot. Its 85 bucks or so for the LNF one on Turbotechracing.com also get the clutch pipe, you can find it on crate engine depot for like $15 shipped. Butif I were you I would buy a new clutch too, I say clutch because when I took mine off the clutch was not worn but it was burnt and glazed from slipping so much. I got the KY stage 3 and its awesome, and its only like $550. Plus your going to have to drop the tranny to do it so might as well do the clutch while you are there.

 

I already bought a new clutch kit and tube. GMPP. My questions aren't about that. It's about whether or not bleeding it more will help engagement and disengagement before I leave to drive 1000 miles back to FL where I can install the new parts

 

Bleeding it wont do anything more its only going to get worse. Good luck on a 1000 mile drive.

 

Hopefully you know how to shift without the clutch in case your completely ***** out

 

If it does **** out what's the worst that can happen? It's not going to blow apart or damage the trans or anything right?

 

No it won't damage anything because technically the clutch will still be functioning fine, it's the TOB that is bad. So you'll have to shift without the clutch and stopping and starting will be challenging to say the least. Your only worry will be grinding gears

 

Okay. I've got rev matching down for 2-5. I avoid stopping as much as I can to limit use of the TOB.

Last question. With all the LNF TOB issues can you still get LSJ ones?

 

I have no idea about that one. You'd probably have to talk to a dealership about that

 

there are no LNF TOB issues I beleive that to be an internet myth. Never had a bad one. had losts of crummy LSJ green booty ones.
CED has best prices for GM parts and the Upgrade kit the OP has is kickass. Good luck driving back, hope it all hangs together, u should be good.

 

Thanks for the info. Hoping to have it all straightened out next weekend. A member I met on here is going to come help/show me how to do a clutch on these cars. I am just anxious to get it fixed so I can get into fun spending on go fast parts and suspension upgrades.

 

TOB no doubt.

 

Made it back to FL.

Surprisingly the more I drove it the firmer the clutch pedal got. Currently it is completely back to full strength, weird. Regardless, I am still going to replace the TOB and install the GMPP clutch kit.

 

You see any clutch fluid leaking anywhere? Might have been stubborn air in the TOB..

 

Nope. It's not leaking at all, anywhere.

I feel that way too but I feel like the pedal pressure still gets just a tad lighter on full load. It may just be me though.
Regardless I already bought the parts and mays well do it now when I'm not school.

 

Ya wierd the symptoms I had was def a leaky TOB. But now I'm not sure lol.

 

It gets weirder. If I have it in fifth and accelerate moderately the clutch pedal goes completely firm and stays that way. But once I start driving it in traffic and stuff it slowly fades out to no pressure until I get to 5th and accelerate again lol.

 

That is wierd... Either air somewhere r a very slow leaking TOB. Check where the trans case meets the motor and see if there's any fluid there.. If not just needs to be bled more.. I heard f some staying like that until they're vacuum bled

 

When I replace the clutch and TOB how much fluid am I going to need? I only have one bottle of Wilwood 570 left. Was going to order two more 12oz bottles. I dont need to bleed the brakes, already did it with this fluid last time we bleed the clutch.

 

One bottle should be plenty. I don't remember how much fluid I used but its not much when all you have is the clutch line to fill.

 

Blah...

So the subframe is dropped and the motor is supported. Trans is out and all of the parts, including clutch, are replaced. Now that damn trans will not go back onto the engine. Another member here (SupaCharged06) and I wrestled it for almost 2 hours before calling it a night and going back at it later today. Any one have any tips and tricks? I have never had one be so difficult to get lined up and slid on.


EDIT
My TOB basically fell out in piece.

 

Yeah, I have one for ya...get an engine hoist. Works better than a trans jack and you don't have to wrestle the trans in. Theres a bolt hole in the middle of the case on top facing outwards towards the drivers side dender of the car. Hook a chain from there to the engine hoist with a bolt. Oh, and drop the subframe completely then put it back in with jacks.

 

TOB/Slave is probably done for.