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I currently have a Quaife LSD sitting in an F23 out of a cavi. I would like to swap it out of that transmission and into mine here in the next month or so before Autox starts back up. I was wondering if anyone on here had any experience with these transmissions and if it is something a guy can do in the garage or if there is critical shimming or other issues that would require a professional. Basically is the unit plug and play or does it need to be adjusted in some way to compensate for differences between transmissions?
If I do need to take it to a professional I would probably remove the LSD from the old trans but leave my trans sealed, take both parts to them to have it installed. Surely I assume the LSD could be removed without messing anything up?
Again if anyone has tore into the F23 transmission or had an LSD installed I would like to hear your feedback.
Took a picture below of looking through the axle hole of the cavalier trans with the LSD. From what I saw online this looks to confirm it is actually an LSD which I wanted to verify before I started tearing into things. I'm thinking I should be good to at least remove the LSD from this trans without screwing anything up.
Yeah the case is different as it mounts in the Cavalier differently than in the Cobalt. 07blackg5 did you install your own LSD or know something about it? Does it just fit in place or will it require measuring and potentially shimming in some way? I don't know much about them but I have seen people's transmissions eat themselves apart from improper alignment or other assembly issues.
In that case I think I will remove the transmission from my car and take the transmission to a shop to have it installed by hopefully someone who knows what they are doing. Question now is should I swap in the 3.94 final drive from the Cavalier or just stay with the 3.84? One thing that is nice about the 3.94 is I very rarely have to shift out of 2nd during autocross because with rpms going to 8k 2nd gear seems to go to about 65-75mph which leaves me never having to shift into 3rd even on faster o courses. Though it may be better for acceleration to have the 3.94 final drive. What do you guys think?
Edit: did a bit of maths and it doesn't look like the .1 will make much of a difference in speeds up to 70 or so. So to me it seems I may as well swap it in given that it is in good condition since they will both have to be busted open anyway.
Also do you guys think it would be wise to replace the flywheel and clutch while I have it all apart? Any recommendations on steel flywheels? I know I saw some people on here having luck with LuK. Also what clutch would you recommend? I am currently running the KY stage 1 but it's underrated for my torque. I don't want any more clutch than I need, or to sacrifice smoothness if at all possible, but do want it to hold up.
i run an exedy chromoly flywheel on my l61 944. i personally wouldnt run a cast iron flywheel on something reving to 8k on a regular basis
I just don't want to go too light like aluminum because have seen it causes people issues. What's the main problem with heavier flywheel at higher rpm? Just the extra momentum? I woulnd't think it would be any less balanced than a lighter flywheel. What clutch do you run?
the problem isnt the weight, its the fact that castings can have flaws in them. ive seen the results of a cast iron flywheel failure, its not pretty. at the very minimum the transmission is destroyed, in worse cases the drivers loses their legs (talking in a rwd car). now this doesnt happen that often, but its not something that can happen, especially when your pushing the engine rpm a lot higher than it was ever meant to go. there is a reason racing organizations require scatter shields and sfi certified flywheels.
that being said, i went with the exedy chromoly flywheel because its not extremely light. i had a fidanza on it before, it was 8lbs and a pain to drive, had rough idle etc. the exedy is 15lbs, idle quality is much improved, and even with an aggressive clutch the car is easy to drive.
speaking of clutches im running a spec 3+. honestly not my first choice, but i had to put a custom clutch together for the car and i already had a spec 3+ pressure place so i just went that route.
the problem isnt the weight, its the fact that castings can have flaws in them. ive seen the results of a cast iron flywheel failure, its not pretty. at the very minimum the transmission is destroyed, in worse cases the drivers loses their legs (talking in a rwd car). now this doesnt happen that often, but its not something that can happen, especially when your pushing the engine rpm a lot higher than it was ever meant to go. there is a reason racing organizations require scatter shields and sfi certified flywheels.
that being said, i went with the exedy chromoly flywheel because its not extremely light. i had a fidanza on it before, it was 8lbs and a pain to drive, had rough idle etc. the exedy is 15lbs, idle quality is much improved, and even with an aggressive clutch the car is easy to drive.
speaking of clutches im running a spec 3+. honestly not my first choice, but i had to put a custom clutch together for the car and i already had a spec 3+ pressure place so i just went that route.
Exedy sounds like a nice balance.
I can't stand how heavy the stock flywheel is in my LNF. Revs hang for so long and rev matching you have to mash the throttle so much.
Looks like the exedy flywheel is the way to go. Don't know how much salt it holds but they say they have been tested to 15000-18000 rpm in the product description. Now looking at clutches and wondered if anyone made a full face clutch for F23 made to handle ~350-400 ft-lbs torque. All I seem to be able to find is puck clutches. Which may be fine I have just seen that they aren't as well mannered as full face clutches. On turbo tech racing there is the full face Spec stage 3 full face clutch or the KY Clutch Stage 2, 6 disc. Both of these clutches seem like they would work fine just don't know much about either of them and have never ran a puck clutch.
Edit: Anyone know anything about how the Exedy Stage 2 Ceramametallic clutch performs or what kind of torque it is designed for?(Edit: I think OTTP has the wrong picture up for this and it is actually a 3-puck clutch and not a full face) Also considering ZZP's 9.5" stage 3 clutch kit but it comes with an aluminum flywheel and I'm weary about using one of those as I said earlier. Anyone have any experience with these?
Looks like the exedy flywheel is the way to go. Don't know how much salt it holds but they say they have been tested to 15000-18000 rpm in the product description. Now looking at clutches and wondered if anyone made a full face clutch for F23 made to handle ~350-400 ft-lbs torque. All I seem to be able to find is puck clutches. Which may be fine I have just seen that they aren't as well mannered as full face clutches. On turbo tech racing there is the full face Spec stage 3 full face clutch or the KY Clutch Stage 2, 6 disc. Both of these clutches seem like they would work fine just don't know much about either of them and have never ran a puck clutch.
Edit: Anyone know anything about how the Exedy Stage 2 Ceramametallic clutch performs or what kind of torque it is designed for?(Edit: I think OTTP has the wrong picture up for this and it is actually a 3-puck clutch and not a full face) Also considering ZZP's 9.5" stage 3 clutch kit but it comes with an aluminum flywheel and I'm weary about using one of those as I said earlier. Anyone have any experience with these?
I will never do an aluminum flywheel nor a puck style clutch again in a street car. Hell, I have a fidanza flywheel with a KY 6 puck clutch with about 7500 miles on them in my garage on a shelf...
I will never do an aluminum flywheel nor a puck style clutch again in a street car. Hell, I have a fidanza flywheel with a KY 6 puck clutch with about 7500 miles on them in my garage on a shelf...
that combo is terrible for streetability. a full faced disc on an aluminum flywheel is somewhat ok, and a puck clutch is driveable with a steel flywheel, but the 2 together, forget it.
i would be all over the zzp 9.5" flywheel if it was steel. would open up a lot of simpler clutch option for my 944.
the exedy stage 2 for the 2.2/2.4 is in fact a 3 puck, i wouldnt recommend it. the spec + series clutches are full faced, 2+ and 3+, the 2+ being a kevlar face and 3+ being a metallic face. the 3+ is perfectly driveable with a steel flywheel (it was a bit of a bear with the aluminum flywheel), its aggressive, but not chattery. like i said, it wasnt my first choice, but it is working well and i would recommend it.
that combo is terrible for streetability. a full faced disc on an aluminum flywheel is somewhat ok, and a puck clutch is driveable with a steel flywheel, but the 2 together, forget it.
i would be all over the zzp 9.5" flywheel if it was steel. would open up a lot of simpler clutch option for my 944.
the exedy stage 2 for the 2.2/2.4 is in fact a 3 puck, i wouldnt recommend it. the spec + series clutches are full faced, 2+ and 3+, the 2+ being a kevlar face and 3+ being a metallic face. the 3+ is perfectly driveable with a steel flywheel (it was a bit of a bear with the aluminum flywheel), its aggressive, but not chattery. like i said, it wasnt my first choice, but it is working well and i would recommend it.
The flywheel was okay with my SPEC 2+, but god awful with the KY. I have a bone stock clutch in there now. If I were ever going for bigger power, I would consider something different, but being that I have had the car for almost 12 years now, I don't see that in the near future.
I thought I responded to this already but must have not went through. It is looking like the Spec + full face is going to be one of if not the only option for a higher torque full-face clutch. Does anyone know if they list their torque rating for these clutches anywhere? Anyone know of any full face clutches with comparable load capacity to the spec stage 2+ and 3+? I'd like to order these today if at all possible but they are expensive and I don't want to regret my choice. Exedy chromoly flywheel is decided on as it easily looks like the best balance between lightweight and streetability.
my spec 3+ was with a spec flywheel (which i think is identical to the fidanze I had. Same stickers and markings)
I have an oem flywheel with an fx350 now
How long have you been running the fx350? Would you recommend? It's a quite a bit more expensive but if driveability is OK and it holds up for you it is worth the money. I do not want to have to remove this trans again to replace a faulty clutch. Buy once cry once.
01-03-2018, 08:26 AM
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