Also I have to push the clutch in all the way to get it to disengage and it engages almost immediately when I let the pedal come back from fully pressed. Just a thick new clutch or do think I need to bleed more or what?

 

Video of the noise.

 

Re: noise, have you asked your shop to ride with you? I don't think the LSD would be making any sort of noise like that, and the rest of the new components have no reason to have a different sound either, so maybe they'd know. I know the F35 makes all sorts of crazy sounds, including on decel, but yours is a different trans and you have the same trans as before.

Re: clutch position. I've noticed on occasion mine will start to grab very close to the floor kind of like you're describing (killed it once then realized what's going on). But then it went away. I wonder if the self-adjusting mechanism has a hiccup once and a while?

 

I have done some poking around and apparently this has more to do with my clutch/flywheel having less damping. Took the guy from transmission shop for a ride and he didn't think it was transmission noise either. I have seen some videos up of F35 and it sounds pretty damn close to this. John Powell told me it's fine just turn the radio up. I guess I am not going to worry about it for now. Maybe put some miles on it and drop the fluid and inspect the magnet. Noise doesn't bother me as long as it isn't an indication of something about to fail.

As far as the clutch I wonder if yours had some air bubbles and they worked themselves out and that is why yours went away over time maybe?

 

It's possible. I remembered because i just experienced it last night. Just once, though. It's odd.

 

Clutch is now releasing at about the same spot the previous one was. Must have been some air bubbles that worked themselves out or something. I am relieved though because it was a pain in the ass to shift as you had to put the pedal clear to the floor.

 

my car did the same thing when i did the clutch. sometimes its a little air in the system, other times its the clutch seating in. i had to drive mine for a week before the pedal got to a normal height.

 

So my transmission is being a bitch to shift when it used to slide into the gears like butter. I am hoping it is because I used Dexron 6 instead of Dexron 4 like it calls for. It is a bit lighter though it should protect the gears I am thinking it is hindering the syncros. The problem is worse when I rev out a gear and try to go into the next gear. Like first to second then second to third. It's like hitting a damn wall and it is rage educing. My clutch also releases not far off the floor but I have bled it all I can I think. I have RedLin D4 fluid coming in next week that I am going to throw in there in hopes that it corrects the issue but in the meantime wondered what y'all thought because this is something I have to get figured out. Not very good for winning races if I can't get the damn thing into gear.

 

I drained the ATF D6 fluid and replaced it with ATF D4. So far it seems to be shifting much better. I will report back if I discover otherwise.

 

I would not have expected that. So much for backwards compatibility.

 

Don't consider it set in stone yet. I need to go out and do a hard pull and rev out the gears as that is when I noticed the issue most. First to second shift was like hitting a wall. I don't know how sensitive the synchronizers are to fluid consistency.

From my drive to and from work this morning though it did seem to be improved.

 

the problem with dex 6 has a much lower viscosity than dex 3. dex 6 is backwards compatible for automatics that require dex 3. when gm brought out dex 6 and discontinued dex 3 (and the licencing of the name) they also brought out another "manual transmission fluid", it was designed for vehicles requiring automatic transmission fluid. really, it was the same old dex 3 under a different name.

i just went through this with a t56 6 speed i built for a friend. turns out in those dexron 6 is a recipe for disaster. i dont imagine it would be much better with long term use in an f23.

 

When I decided to go with Dex 6 I read that Dex starts out with a lower viscosity than Dex 4 but has a lower limit that is higher than that of Dex 4. So even though it is lighter it should still offer viscosity within the acceptable range of Dex 4. Though after trying it I would agree with you that it isn't a good idea. I also don't know how long it takes Dex 4 to degrade and if most situations you actually ever see a degraded viscosity that would be similar to Dex 6. I have more peace of mind though now with it switched out though it was an expensive experiment with RedLine ATF.

 

heat isn't a huge issue in the F23, it's acting as lubricating fluid not being pumped under pressure

 

its not dex 4 you put in your trans, there is no such thing as dex 4. gm went from dex 3 h-spec to dex 6. the idea was dex 6 for the new 6 speed automatics. gm discontinued the licencing of the dexron 3 name for marketing, so nobody can call their fluid dexron 3. redline went with gms marketing scheme and came out with d6 fluid for dex 6, to be used in 6 speed autos, and d4 to be used in 4 speed and older autos. redline d4 is a dexron 3 h spec fluid. thats the trivia for the day.

what the whole thing comes down to for me is i do put some faith in the oe manufacturers. cost wise it makes far more sense for them to run dex 6 in the manuals, but that isnt the case. and yea, i had a look at the spec sheets too, it doesnt appear to be that bad of an idea by the sheets, but that doesnt always tell the whole story.

 

**** I had it in my mind my transmission called for D4 but you are right it calls for D3. Will I be alright with D4? I literally bought a bottle of RedLine ATF D4

 

redline d4 is actually dexron 3 fluid. there is no such thing as dexron 4

 

Alright good. I should have the appropriate stuff in there then.

 

Good thing you didn't fill it with Dexcool....
Couldn't you find Dexron VI ?

I was just thinking... Did you Dyno it in 4th or 5th?

 

I keep saying Dexcool on accident. I originally had Dex 6 in it. I found it was difficult to shift gears at times so I put Dex 4 which I guess is really just Dex 3 back in it and the shifting seems to have improved though I haven't thoroughly tested it yet.

Yes I dyno'd in 4th. I'm thinking where we may have screwed up was when we calibrated the machine to rpms before we made the runs.

 

Well I did some thou thorough testing the last couple of days doing some pulls and revving it out and it appears the fluid doesn't have anything to do with it. The POS still doesn't want to shift gears when I rev them out. Doesn't matter which gear. The more I rev out the previous gear the worse it is. If I try to use more force it just grinds. So f'n frustrating.

 

Going to give another go at bleeding the clutch again I guess. What do I do if I can't get out any air?

 

try a vacuum bleeder?

 

I don't have one. Do you know examples of some that work with the Cobalt?

 

Even though this is the fourth time I have attempted to bleed my clutch, with the first three yielding no noticeable improvement, I think I finally got it this time. Clutch seems to release further out in the pedal travel and went out for a rip and it shifted normal. Will test it more tomorrow and let y'all know for sure.

If this turns out to be the case using Dexron 6 is probably perfectly fine though I think I will be alright leaving D4/D3 in it given it is RedLine full synthetic so it should still be a very good fluid.