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if the air is trapped in the slave cylinder, pressure bleeding it will do nothing as the bleeder screw is in the middle of the clutch line. vacuum bleeding actually pulls the slave cylinder all the way in, and that forces the air and fluid to travel out of the slave. once the air is in the line it will slowly make it was back to the master cylinder, thats why you put them on and leave them for 15 minutes.
Thanks everyone. And yes sharkey I have thought about that a little bit. One thing I know is in the past when I removed ONLY the clutch line while leaving the slave in the transmission full of fluid I didn't have a bit of problem bleeding it. However this time I was starting over with a new empty slave/TOB and it is giving me way more trouble, which makes sense given what you said about the bleed location. It took me forever just to get some fluid to it initially.
if the air is trapped in the slave cylinder, pressure bleeding it will do nothing as the bleeder screw is in the middle of the clutch line. vacuum bleeding actually pulls the slave cylinder all the way in, and that forces the air and fluid to travel out of the slave. once the air is in the line it will slowly make it was back to the master cylinder, thats why you put them on and leave them for 15 minutes.
Which is why you would want to hit it from all 4 corners and the clutch last using a pressure bleeder. Again, common reservoir.
Anyone else getting a re-direct to walmart from this click?
I'm sure that will do great for the brakes and help with the clutch, but I still think you need to pull vacuum on the system to help remove any air bubble at the TOB
Anyone else getting a re-direct to walmart from this click?
I'm sure that will do great for the brakes and help with the clutch, but I still think you need to pull vacuum on the system to help remove any air bubble at the TOB
I thought this device pulls a vacuum on the reservoir?
If it doesn't pull a vacuum then I misunderstood what the product is and need to cancel my order. There's honestly not a good product description anywhere on this that I can find that clarifies how it works.
I canceled the order on the power bleeder because I didn't look close enough at what it was. Everyone in here was talking about vacuum bleeding and that power bleeder is the only product anyone shared. I orderd
Hopefully with both of these products I should be able to pull a vacuum on this damn thing.
And yes, the help wasn't very clear. The pressure bleeder is helpful so that you can bleed the brakes without pumping the pedal (and having to open and close the bleeder valve). Sharkey alluded that you need to vacuum bleed vs. pressure bleed but didn't explicitly state that the motive power bleeder wouldn't get you there. it is still a good buy to save a bunch of time.
I canceled the power bleeder but ordered the two items I took a screenshot of. It appears to me that needing to bleed clutch lines with a vacuum isn't typical as all vacuum bleeders are advertised for power steering pumps that I could find. I figure with these two items combined I should be able to vacuum bleed anything I would ever need to so to hopefully get more use out of these tools instead of just this once.
i have a motive pressure pot bleeder, i love the thing, it makes bleeding brakes and most clutch systems so simple. however it is the wrong tool for the clutch system in the cobalts, and a number of other modern cars that have the bleed screw in the middle of the clutch feed line.
the motive vacuum pump and bleed kit are exactly what you want. it will allow you to pull a vacuum on the master cylinder, that retracts the slave cylinder and pushes the air into the line, and itll slowly work its way back to the top. these things also allow you to pull a vacuum on a bleed screw and suck the fluid through the system, so its also handy for brakes. just a word of warning, if you ever do that make sure the little cup doesnt get to full and allow brake fluid into the vacuum pump, itll destroy it.
one other thing, after you put a vacuum on the master cylinder, before you drive the car pump the brakes back up. being a shared reservoir it will suck the pistons back in the calipers.
Tested car out today and though shifting seems to have improved the clutch will still drag a bit when revving the car in gear with the clutch full depressed. I have contacted Clutch Masters to see what they have to say. Looks like I'm out $650 and many hours of labor. I'm hesitant to go back with any Clutch Masters. I've heard Exedy is a good brand? Maybe I will roll the dice again with them and see if my bad luck persists.
Maybe I will roll the dice again with them and see if my bad luck persists.
Between your luck, abilities and crappy dice... I would get something different and have a professional install it. Sounds like the guy that did your transmission is still working.
Between your luck, abilities and crappy dice... I would get something different and have a professional install it. Sounds like the guy that did your transmission is still working.
Thanks for the very helpful advice but I don't think this problem was caused by installation error. I've put on clutches before no problem. Technicians don't have special powers. Putting on a clutch is labor intensive but it is not hard. I will not be having my car sit around for 2 months and pay way too much money to have some "professional" put in my clutch the same way I would.
I was the only one that suggested the tests that led to the result that you have a **** plex plate or bent clutch disc.
I never said your previous advice wasn't useful but apparently you have run out. "Pay someone else to do it" is not useful advice. I torque everything to spec and I take care in what I do. I make mistakes yes but there is not guarantee some "professional" won't do shoddy work. And I refuse to pay labor on something that is very straightforward and requires no special tools/machinery.
03-30-2018, 12:42 PM
