Henry3959

I suggested a Professional so you have some sort of warranty against a bad install... You have a really bad self esteem issue and always take everything negatively.

jdbaugh1

iTrader: (1)

There are no "performance" shops anywhere near me that will install a customer provided clutch and pressure plate and then do anything but blame the parts and then I'm stuck paying labor twice. For reference, when I took the guy that did my LSD install for a ride to show him the new obvious drivetrain noise he tried to convince me it was an exhaust rattle.

Sorry I took your comment which basically said "you probably fucked up installing it because of your lack of ability" as negative. Though I fail to see how that could be positive in any way.

user 72239

iTrader: (4)

yeah you did kind of tell him he fucked up the install and should have someone else do it lol

07blackg5

iTrader: (8)

he obviously knows what he's saying, and then cops out at the end acting like a saint.

Henry3959

If you got all of that out of what I wrote, No one can help you. Did you bother looking at any of the other items I posted that could be causing it? Such as a small bit of conduit or something sandwiched between the case and engine block. Misalignment can cause this.

07blackg5

iTrader: (8)

Exhibit A:^

Slowbalt2000

iTrader: (1)

Just know....Im watching...

user 72239

iTrader: (4)

jdbaugh1

iTrader: (1)

I'll inspect transmission housing mate to the block again and look for gaps. Otherwise I would think if I had something holding the flywheel out of square it would weeble-wobble at high rpm. I guess the only thing to do now is either get through the season shifting from first to second at lower rpm or tear down and inspect everything very carefully before deciding it is the clutch assembly. I did go out and try some high rpm shifts and it definitely improved. I don't think my rev hang is helping anything. Probably wouldn't even notice it without the rev hang.

Slowbalt2000

iTrader: (1)

I dont really feel like reading the last few pages but ill explain how I bleed the clutch.

Just use the mightyvac you ordered to put vacuum on the bleeder screw and crack the bleeder, keep constant vac on it until there are no more bubbles and watch the fluid level to make sure the reservoir stays full.

jdbaugh1

iTrader: (1)

There is a short video on the last page that showed how I did it though I hooked it up to the reservoir. Wouldn't connecting it to the bleeder nipple just continually extract fluid?

Slowbalt2000

iTrader: (1)

yes but it also pulls air with it, fluid is cheap. my buddy swears by putting vac on the reservoir but in my mind that really cant be helping all that much.

user 72239

iTrader: (4)

when i bled my clutch i used the mityvac bleeder. Put ~15 hg/in for 10 minutes. then pumped the clutch 4-5 times. it firmed up after 2 pumps.

then put another 15 hg/in for another 10 minutes. and then it's been fine since.

user 72239

iTrader: (4)

the GM LSJ upgrade book even states to use a vacuum bleeder.

jdbaugh1

iTrader: (1)

Did you connect to the bleeder nipple or the reservoir?

user 72239

iTrader: (4)

I connected it right to the resevoir. Ecaulk has a Cobalt brake bleeder cap that I used. worked perfectly.

user 72239

iTrader: (4)

you could also pull a brake resevoir cap off a cobalt at the u pull and drill a hole and add a vacuum port. I was going to do that before realizing he had the bleeder cap for cobalts already.

user 72239

iTrader: (4)

Pretty sure this is it

jdbaugh1

iTrader: (1)

As you can see in the video below I did this as well though I used a rubber stopper instead of a dedicated cap. Should yield the same end result though.


BTW, I went by the transmission shop and got a "professional" opinion about the car inching forward, when in gear, with the clutch pedal fully depressed, and revving to high rpms and he thought that could be normal. I don't really think it is but would anyone in here that also has 7.5-8k redline mind trying it with their vehicle just to put that theory to bed? I'd hate to take this all apart and put in a different clutch for nothing.

user 72239

iTrader: (4)

interesting. you sure the distro block doesn't have a leak?

jdbaugh1

iTrader: (1)

The brake distribution block? Don't think it does. Nothing appeared to be leaking as this setup held vacuum for a very long time. Is that what you are saying like there is air getting in through the brake distribution block or something else?

user 72239

iTrader: (4)

Yeah the one on top of the trans. You'd know if you had a leak, i had a small one cause I bought OTTPs braided clutch cable and it wasn't seated correctly. fluid went everywhere when I pressurized the tank lol

jdbaugh1

iTrader: (1)

I just have a line coming from I assume the master cylinder though I have never traced it all the way back. That line plugs into the transmission and is held with a C-clip. It isn't leaking or I would be low on fluid. Thinking something is dickered. If I drop the trans again I think I am going to go ahead and replace the master cylinder because I have been noticing every-time I take the brake res cap off there is some sort of black schmoo floating on the top.

jdbaugh1

iTrader: (1)

Does anyone know if Sachs is OEM or if Luk a good brand for master cylinder?

jdbaugh1

iTrader: (1)

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/08-1...46/index2.html

Found a thread where someone was having this exact same issue except with an SS. They replace the clutch and the trans so they never really verified what caused it. Almost tempted to throw my KY back in there and cross my fingers.