Full face vs. 6 puck
well if its truly 475lb ft rating then ill never have to worry about changing it, unless i forget how to drive a manual for w/e reason lol, i really wanna go turbo one day and put down about 400ish fwhp, prolly 350ish lbft on the 252et, but who knows, i may get hard and zzp forged shortblock with stage 2 head n go after 500+ with a 262et..., time will tell lol
we shall see once my money is right lol, do you recommend a fidanza flywheel for a randomly driven car, it will be garaged in winter but will be insured for me to drive whenever i please, i have a 01 sunfire for a dd but would like to play once in a while and take on long drives to meets/see some friends in VA an SC
if i go fidanza id go zzp and opt for arp bolts with it
if i go fidanza id go zzp and opt for arp bolts with it
Last edited by bobbyjohn681; Feb 13, 2012 at 12:16 AM.
ight, thanks, dependsing on mileage when i swap i may re-surface, or jus go new for a better mating surface, thanks for the info bro, how u do ur remote tuning anyway, i hear alot of members praising ur tunes, if i got hp tuners could you tune by email, just mod the tune email it back then i drive for a day or 2 and email back??
not trying to jack the thread either op, sry lol
not trying to jack the thread either op, sry lol
Last edited by bobbyjohn681; Feb 13, 2012 at 12:33 AM.
When I dynoed 496 527 Ftlbs. On 33lbs and 35 spike I've had quite a few others dyno with a ko4 or larger dyno at 420-470 ft lbs... No issues. Just remember the different clutches
The stage three is recommend.def at that Tq. Which means that's the least basically in a average. So I was able.to obtain that Tq even tho it wasn't rated to the.higher.Tq. but if I did that often the clutch would blow or slip bad.
gocha, still a little wet behind the ears in this area, i kno a little performance, but im a lil more rounded around differentials and engines, getting into the rest of performance areas as much as possible while i can soak up the info
It's time to replace the stock clutch on the lnf. I have downpipe,catback,cai, and hp tune coming in a month, so I'll be looking at increased torque.
So I know full face clutches generally last longer but are more prone to slipping because they cant support increased torque. 6 puck setup should hold more torque but not last as long. With the setup im going to have, would you suggest KY stage 1 or 2? Basically would you suggest a 6 puck clutch for basic bolt ons and tune?
Edit: oh and yea this car's warranty went up this month. only has ~25k miles on it. I'm the second owner and the car was completely raped when we bought it So I'm 90% sure its not my driving thats ruining clutches
So I know full face clutches generally last longer but are more prone to slipping because they cant support increased torque. 6 puck setup should hold more torque but not last as long. With the setup im going to have, would you suggest KY stage 1 or 2? Basically would you suggest a 6 puck clutch for basic bolt ons and tune?
Edit: oh and yea this car's warranty went up this month. only has ~25k miles on it. I'm the second owner and the car was completely raped when we bought it So I'm 90% sure its not my driving thats ruining clutches
I would not suggest a 6-puck for the upgrades you are planning on doing to the car. I just changed from an Exedy Hyper Single to an ACT full-face street setup. I like the ACT clutch A LOT better. I did not like the harsh engagement when the clutch was cold on the EXEDY setup. You're setup will not be pushing anything near the rated holding capacity of this clutch. Whatever clutch you get needs to be a sprung hub since they are easier on your transmission. The Exedy disk has a sprung hub, but the harsh engagement sucks - there is a reason it is rated mainly for track use. If you or anyone else reading this post really want an EXEDY Hyper single clutch kit with very low miles feel free to PM me and I will give a killer deal on mine! Pics ready to send. I've also heard that the 6-puck clutches will wear the synchronizers in the transmission out sooner. Somthing to think about - clutch changes and transmissions are not cheap. It could get expensive very fast!
Put it this way .. op does need a 6 puck because he will just end up replacing the clutch within a few.thousand miles. He wants tuned and.the.mods... So therefore the capabilities of the.clutch are.going to be out done..
What kind of hp and torque numbers are you expecting from a cai, downpipe, catback, and tune? What psi will the turbo be tuned to operate at without upgrading the fuel and ignition systems? It would be easier to select a clutch if you have an idea what kind of power the clutch will have to hold. I'm asking because I noticed you have some experience tuning these cars; therefore, you will have an idea of the power the clutch will have to hold.
Im running a clutchmasters stage 4 6 puck with lightweight flywheel in my car. While it was fine at first the setup gets old after 2,000 miles. There is no slipping the clutch and the light flywheel makes the car tough to get going. On any hill I look like a 16 year old just learning how to drive stick...with 3" straight pipe exhaust it makes it sound even worse.
Alright, so let's put it this way. Based on your experience with tuning these cars around what torque would he be looking at going off the modifications he is going to make? I've read the max psi on the k04 turbo is recommended not to exceed 24 psi, but I'm not sure if injectors or ignition components need to be upgraded to make that pressure possible. Since he is not upgrading any of that it should give you an idea what psi is possible given your experience. Do you have an idea of torque since that would be the deciding factor on this clutch?


