(How to) make your clutch stop slipping. Find out inside.
01-27-2007, 01:39 AM
#127
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The Jake is used to help control speed when decending down a steep grade, and to help slow a heavy loaded rig during normal braking from high way speeds so you dont fry the brakes.
Engine braking is not used in trucks as it has no point, The motor dosnt make enuff braking afect without the Jake to slow the rig. The reason you hear the truck still in gear and hear them going down threw the gears when stopping is do to the fact that it is agenst the law to roll the truck out of gear.
Later
you have it wrong, what your referring to is the spike, or trailer brake. its the lever opposing the turn signal lever. the engine brakes dumps cylinder compression into the exhaust bypass. it is intended to keep a heavy truck under control, braking uses a large amount of air, and if you run outta air and dymanite the brakes, your fucked.
i have a class 1 professionals licence. i know.
i have a class 1 professionals licence. i know.
B: You never, AND I MEAN NEVER! use the trailer cheach valve to stop a jake Knife. EVER! 9 times out of 10 it will make it ****** and the one time it dosnt it will do nithing as you have alread fucked up to bad to save it.
C: it is not always on the steering colom opposed to the turn signal. It can be mounted on the dash as they do in most Freightliners sins 98.
D: if you run out of air stopping the truck you have a leak, Or you dont know what your doing!
Later.
Last edited by Badmunky; 01-27-2007 at 01:39 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
01-27-2007, 01:42 AM
#128
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in canada
in canada, its class1. for tractor trailer.
and how many mountains have you driven through with 80000lbs?
in canada, its class1. for tractor trailer.
and how many mountains have you driven through with 80000lbs?
Last edited by firestorm; 01-27-2007 at 01:42 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
01-27-2007, 01:44 AM
#129
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Thanks Maxim X.
Something else about matching RPMs. I had a REALLY old Toyota SR5 ('81) which had about 300K on it. I decided to scrap the car because the floor had rotted etc etc and the car just became unsafe to drive. So in the last month or so I decided to shift without using the clutch...just to challenge myself.
Lets just say if you know a car well enough you can shift without the clutch. It requires some throttle work but when I did it the shifts were really as effortless as would be using a clutch and shifts into and out of gears were smooth as could be. In order to do this you have to know the car really REALLY well. In fact I got so good at it I could even downshift all the way to 1st!
Again, for those of you who are reading this preparing to flame, let me say this. I have NEVER done this in my Cobalt nor would I do it in any other car unless I was driving it to the wreck yard to be scrapped. Even though it might not kill your tranny if you do it right (plus it could save you clutch as it's never disengaged!), it would put undue stress on the engine as you match RPMs and probably the gears to some degree. Also, if you do it wrong and mess up badly once, it will cost you dearly! So, seriously, DON'T even try it. As tempting as it may be to see if you can - don't.
Something else about matching RPMs. I had a REALLY old Toyota SR5 ('81) which had about 300K on it. I decided to scrap the car because the floor had rotted etc etc and the car just became unsafe to drive. So in the last month or so I decided to shift without using the clutch...just to challenge myself.
Lets just say if you know a car well enough you can shift without the clutch. It requires some throttle work but when I did it the shifts were really as effortless as would be using a clutch and shifts into and out of gears were smooth as could be. In order to do this you have to know the car really REALLY well. In fact I got so good at it I could even downshift all the way to 1st!
Again, for those of you who are reading this preparing to flame, let me say this. I have NEVER done this in my Cobalt nor would I do it in any other car unless I was driving it to the wreck yard to be scrapped. Even though it might not kill your tranny if you do it right (plus it could save you clutch as it's never disengaged!), it would put undue stress on the engine as you match RPMs and probably the gears to some degree. Also, if you do it wrong and mess up badly once, it will cost you dearly! So, seriously, DON'T even try it. As tempting as it may be to see if you can - don't.
Do not EVER try this in a newer car. You will most likely blow the trans.
I used to to id in my S10 and it worked just fine but in newer cars they make the trans a bit differant and this will brake things. Might not be the first time you do it or even the 2nd but it will in time.
Later
01-27-2007, 01:44 AM
#130
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01-27-2007, 01:53 AM
#131
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Ok you got me with the class one thing. My bad!
I did not look at where you live and should have. Thats on me.
Sorry
And I clim and decend large mountains every week. You dont have to be at 80K to need the jake. A 7% grade you will need the jake with as little as 20K in the box. Or about 50-55K total weaght.
I run up 4th of July and back down 2 times a month on average with a totale weaght of 55-79K depeding on how they loaded me.
Later.
In my truck no.
In my car under normal driving I do 70% of the time.
If Im going to have some fun then I rev match almost 100% of the time and will even preload the front suspension befor a fast corner, or I will reload it mid corner.
You dont have to use engine brakeing in a car is the point. Its only needed at high speeds and when going all out.
Later.
Last edited by Badmunky; 01-27-2007 at 01:53 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
01-27-2007, 07:56 AM
#132
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You can do that in an older car with high miles. the trans is lose and was not made the same way that the new ones are.
Do not EVER try this in a newer car. You will most likely blow the trans.
I used to to id in my S10 and it worked just fine but in newer cars they make the trans a bit differant and this will brake things. Might not be the first time you do it or even the 2nd but it will in time.
Later
Do not EVER try this in a newer car. You will most likely blow the trans.
I used to to id in my S10 and it worked just fine but in newer cars they make the trans a bit differant and this will brake things. Might not be the first time you do it or even the 2nd but it will in time.
Later
So you did that too, huh? I used to tell people I could drive a stick without the clutch and they wouldn't believe me! Then they'd get in and be like "wft??" I swear it was seemless.
Of course I wouldn't try it in any car unless, as I said, I was en route to a wreck yard with it."
So, Badmunky, do you drive a rig with a sleeper cab in the back? Do you do long-hauls? I used to love the old Freightliners and the Ford 5000 (or is it 9000) - the ones with the sleepers behind the driving cab. I thought that style of truck was nice!
Btw, IMO, you still have the nicest after market wheels here...I took your advice and didn't get yours (or any other) because of the rubbing (we discussed this about 5 months ago). If I wasn't buying the ones you got I wasn't buying any...Although if you turn the wheel in our car all the way and back up and hit a small dip while doing it there is some rubbing. It's happened to me twice in my parking lot at work.
What I really need is a set of wheels/snows for the crap weather here in Toronto. Just don't have the cash now. So far if there is snow on the ground I don't and can't drive. Good thing I work close to home!
Last edited by Enuffboost; 01-27-2007 at 06:32 PM.
01-30-2007, 09:50 PM
#133
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now when u say release the clutch faster are you releasing the clutch right away around 3 or do you let the tach fall to about where the next gear starts and release quickly?
01-30-2007, 10:15 PM
#135
With enough practice you should find that sweet spot.
02-14-2007, 10:29 PM
#140
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clutch slipping
hey guys well my car has 22000 miles on it and my clutch is slipping like crazy does anyone know about a good replasement clutch other than the stock one any help would be greattly appreciated
02-14-2007, 11:03 PM
#141
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go with the exedy! it's a bit pricey but eveyone says it's worth the $$$. i'm saving for it right now.
02-15-2007, 12:14 AM
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My trick I use, as long as you've got a bit of torque on everything...
Clutch in and get out of the gear, move towards the next gear and apply a tiny bit of pressure (but not enough to engage) and when the revs match, it will pop in itself and you're good to go. You should be able to do this all with one finger if you're doing it right.
Clutch in and get out of the gear, move towards the next gear and apply a tiny bit of pressure (but not enough to engage) and when the revs match, it will pop in itself and you're good to go. You should be able to do this all with one finger if you're doing it right.
03-05-2007, 11:44 PM
#144
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If you can stop to think about how many rpms you're letting it drop, you've done it too slowly. It should be a bit of a jolt, but a confident one. Not something that would make your passengers heads lunge forward and have them second guess your driving abilities.
With enough practice you should find that sweet spot.
With enough practice you should find that sweet spot.
03-20-2007, 12:14 AM
#146
THYANK U BADMUNKEY i read ur info about 2 months ago and i have had my balt for a week ans the clutch grabs so well i rev match to the best i can bu t even travelin 40 and poppin it in 2nd (40 roll time)sometimes i forget to rev match but it doesnt matter b/c no slip and i have the peace of mind that i definitially wont be slippin in this race
i guess while i was playin it cool during his 3 honk he was the 1 frettin over slippin. He missed 4th likeholy guacomole
bye bye GTI
but yea rev match, quick clutch let up and u end up with 1 FRIGGIN GOOD CLUTCH
i guess while i was playin it cool during his 3 honk he was the 1 frettin over slippin. He missed 4th likeholy guacomole
bye bye GTI but yea rev match, quick clutch let up and u end up with 1 FRIGGIN GOOD CLUTCH
03-28-2007, 11:04 PM
#147
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I would like to +1 this thread.
ALL THE INFORMATION PROVIDED IS TRUE.
i had a manual SHO taurus before this, and i drove it smoothly. With that assumption, i did that to the cobalt... I was showing off to my friends, my new SS/SC, and it kept slipping like mad at WOT. I changed my habits after reading this... i can chirp 2nd gear now! no more SLIPPing
just when i thought i had bought the wrong car too
ALL THE INFORMATION PROVIDED IS TRUE.
i had a manual SHO taurus before this, and i drove it smoothly. With that assumption, i did that to the cobalt... I was showing off to my friends, my new SS/SC, and it kept slipping like mad at WOT. I changed my habits after reading this... i can chirp 2nd gear now! no more SLIPPing
just when i thought i had bought the wrong car too
05-02-2007, 09:24 PM
#148
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I just bought my SS S/C about a month ago and i have put about 2200 miles on it. When i bought the car i wasnt really an expert at driving a manual but i have pretty much mastered it now. This issue has been puzzling me about the clutch slipping when shifting at a low rpm and now that i think about it munkey is right.. Whenever i shift around 3 or 4 grand, the car seems to react a lot smoother (more comfortably). I guess the clutch was just designed that way... Good post by the way.
05-05-2007, 05:38 PM
#149
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Now if only our good friends at GM could support this information and provide it to all Cobalt manual transmission owners... They'd probably save themselves a lot of complaints and headaches.