bleh.. i had my car 6k miles.. and i burnt my fly wheel and clutch... these clutches cant handle power shifting i guess... But ive been doing the 3k+ rpm normal driving and im launching off the line greatly... so i guess it does work, even though i did it un-intentially

 

Okay guys, I'll put 'er to the test. My stage II S/C with 12K miles has been slipping really bad lately. Today I had to shut it off just to get into reverse.

My driving is Low RPM shifting (my last car was a 600 horse Turbo LS1); I kept my RPMS as low as possible because with the double overdrive T56 and all that torque that’s what you did. Now with my ‘balt, on my way home and sitting in stop and go traffic, I’m engaging the clutch in 2nd at 5 miles an hour probably 30-40 times every day. I did a 1 2 power shift today and the clutch just hung at 5,000 RPMS until I let off the gas.  I actually have an appointment tomorrow to fix the worthless sunroof switch surround and to check out the clutch. I told the dealer to look into GM’s guidelines for replacing a prematurely worn clutch under warranty.

I’ll shift her above 3,000 RPMS and let you guys know if it works for m as well.

 

y engage in 2nd at 5mph? i engage great at 7-8 in first and 13 in 2nd everything else i rev match

 

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v3...Clutchslip.flv

Im tryin to get this in the howto section.
but i thought it might help here too.

Ive been talkin about makin this vid for a while.
hopefully sacrificing a little bit of my clutch material will help people out

 

Thanks an0malous. Thanks for helping people out.

 

Ok... so maybe it's because I've never owned a stick before my SS/SC, or just because I don't know the correct terms...

But what exactally happens when your clutch slips? Is it just the real term for the jerk that happens sometimes when you shift? If I'm doing something wrong, I would love to know. I can't remember where I normally shift (My car is in the shop... dumb raccoon!) and also I've also just been taught to shift when it sounds like it needs to. Is this bad?? Everyone who has been helping me learn have never had a car with a tach before, so they always just go "Quit watching the dumb guage and listen!"

I just won't want to be hurting my car... eek.

Also, what is the best RPM for a nice, normal take off in 1st? I can't remember what I usually go in (I'm more of a "Oh, the needle is in the right place" then a set number) but my friends all say it's too high. If I try to go with it lower where they say, I usually stall it. grr.

Why did I ever a SS/SC for my first stick...? I feel like an idiot asking these questions.

 

Shift at or around 3k all the time. Dont lissen to your friends. Tell them its your car and if they want to pay for the clutch you will drive it like they say.

Untill you have liuke 8K on that car you should not be taking it red line in 1st or 2nd gear as you dont have the needed skills yet.

You should only be geting slip during a red line shift.

Slip is when you have ****** from 1st-2nd and hit the gass with your foot off the clutch after a red line shift and the revs rise but the car dosnt seam to pull and the speed dosnt go up like it should.

Like I said you need ot drive the car for atleast 6 months and about 8K befor you do this.

Later.

 

Limit boost in first gear when you get her tuned, that way you don't have to feather out of 1st. TRUST me, this is the way to go. FINALLY got my tune done today by my local Speed Shop hero, and she feels much better all around. He limited boost in 1st (even though I really didn't want him to originally) and after taking her for a spin, I found that you could prolly dump her at like 4K and MAYBE spin the tires. Much much better on the clutch for daily driving, and should help launches much more.

 

bah limiting the boost just slows you down, you would be better off learning how to launch the car properly instead

 

um, i say limit boost if your running stock pirellis and have no intention of a fast 1/4 mile ET. traction is the key. what did your tuner lower your boost in first too, anyway? did he say?

 

this theory is all fine and dandy, but doesn't always work.

 

Doesnt matter the rpm for me, only slips when I get overly excited and start man handling the shifter when it should just be snapped in, instead of me sometimes trying to jerked it in with brute force. I shift around 2.5k and downshift like hell.

It IS one hell of a touchy clutch though.

 

2k miles and zero problems out of the clutch

 

replaced cluth at 9800, thought i was doing the car a favor shifting low, 2500 - 3000. good post

 

5300 miles and I'm having zero problems.

 

14,4xx miles and had some minor clutch slippage come and go

so far it's still grabbing good since it last slipped

 

14xxx no probs

 

12,1xx

No slip

 

6000+ miles and still no problems.

 

I have always shifted @ 3K and let the clutch out quick and my clutch still slips when I go WOT.... Its got almost 30,000 miles on it. lol. Guess its time to look for a new clutch...

 

70,000 miles and still get a second gear scratch

 

2006 SS/SC Stage2+

I bought my 2006 SS/SC with 25k miles on it and had the Stage2 kit put on in the next 1k miles. In under a week i had the INDENTICAL symptoms and problems with the clutch. My car is still under warrenty so i attempted to go the same route as i did with the stage2 and have the dealer do it to remain warrentied. As you probably know, there is no other heavier duty GM clutch for this car and im left (in my mind) with no other option but an aftermarket clutch because i refuse to put another one of these stock wonders back in my car. i called GM directly after squabbling with the dealership and they acted like "Wow I guess we didn't think of that" To make a long story short, they gave me 2 options.
1.they offered to warrenty the clutch (even though it is a "wear and tear" part more or less) even after 25k. Normally they give you 1.2k warrenty on a clutch.
2. They write off a few hundred dollars in labor and install the clutch i bring them while only voiding warrenty on the clutch and not the entire drivetrain without proving beyond all doubt that the clutch is what caused any future problems, and thats on record.

The point is i guess, you can get a free clutch if you yell at them for a couple days. or a discount on an upgrade
I called GM at this # 1-866-790-5700. im in FL so it might be a regional # but i'm sure it'll get you somewhere

 

Same thing here.

I had Stage 2 installed by the dealer, and right away the clutch was slipping under hard acceleration (5k on the car). When I informed them of it, they told me to bring it back in.

The Shop Foreman drove the car and said he didn't notice any slipping (he just drove it up the road and back). So I told him "take the clutch out and if you don't find anything wrong with it, I'll pay your labor" (I knew for a fact that it was slipping, so it was no sweat off my back).

A day later they called me to say they were going to replace the entire clutch under warranty.

It took them a week to do it (parts had to be ordered, and they also wanted to wait until their best mechanic was freed up so he could do the work).

So I got a new clutch disc, new pressure plate, new flywheel, and a new slave cylinder (they said they found out that the old one was leaking).

Got 1500 miles on the new clutch, and it grabs like crazy!

 

I just got a Cobalt SS a month ago and during normal driving I never slip. I shift at around 3k as well but when I launch the car it slips bad sometimes to 2nd. I have done this 6 times but I finnally got the hang of it. The car needs to get traction before the shift to second. Well how bad of damage do you think I have done with the 6 slips. I only have 2550 miles on the car.

 

My SS has 24K and I have bad slippage. almost all the time I would shift near 2k or 2.5 and get the same shuttery shift. Took it to the shop twice they would drive it and said they even power shifted it; If that is even good for the car anyway shifting with out the clutch. So after all this time I have been shifting to low. It makes sense, I will change my shifting ways and see if it will help. If not it is under warranty and "I WILL MAKE THEM FIX THE CLUTCH" lol. Thanks for the info.