a few questions... why do the prothane mounts from turbotechracing have a 'sleeve' that fits the bolt going through it, where as on the stock mounts they do not? does this mean even when you window weld, or urethane your mounts they'll still move a bit?! because if they do still move, i'm having problems...

i took out my tranny mounts and filled them with polyurethane construction adhesive. in order to kill the vibes a bit, because it was a bit too much, (i loved it, but i often take my grandma out to lunch, and she'd hate it) i drilled 2x 5/16" holes in each mount (through the poly, as well as through the existing airholes in the mounts. didn't touch stock rubber) well sure enough, wheelhop returned, but i still had 95% vibes! i filled in the holes with fiberglass, i killed most of the remaining wheelhop i still have a tiny bit left. fiberglass is some tough stuff, but is it maliable??

now, my mounts feel SOLID... with the poly and fiberglass, i can't see how i could have wheelhop, i didn't have any when i first filled all poly? i made sure the fiberglass permeated the drill holes completely. there are no visible cracks in either the poly or fiberglass.

main thing is, i'm a bit strapped after paying cash for college this semester ($3000+) if i were to get sleeves so the mount sits on the bolt without chance of moving, will that help? i'd imagine so, i have no idea why chevy has such HUGE holes in the stock mounts, since the bolt is smaller!!!! how does this make any sense??

any1 know where i can get these sleeves so i don't have to try and find them or make them?? i can't get the TTR tranny mounts, can't afford them. tia.

 

I have no other suggestion then to save a few bucks here and there and then get the TTR mounts. They are like $60 i think? Well worth it man. I doubt you'll find any generic sleeve that will fit the mount the way the ttr mounts do..

 

I could have sworn that the stock mounts have metal through the middle of them. (The "sleave" you were talking about)

You'll have to choose vibes or wheelhop. There really isn't any in between.

 

They do.


I also agree with your second point.

 

wow, thanks for the quick replies. as for the sleeve, yes the mount already has one, i guess i meant to say 'spacer' either way, the hole in the center is a bit larger than the bolt going through it... now why on earth would that be beneficial??

edit: that is not sarcasm, i'm trying to convey the fact that chevy's desicion doesn't make sense to me

... and as for the TTR polymounts, how are they, performance wise? i don't care how many vibes i get anymore... i just want to completely erradicate wheelhop, like i did when i first finished my mounts! why, oh whyyyy did i drill them... i have no other custom mounts, like a filled third tranny mount, ingalls, etc.)

i am having a blast with this though, so far i've spent many hours taking the mounts off, baking the poly, putting em back, trying em out, drilling holes, putting em back... taking back out, fiberglassing, putting back. it's been keeping me busy with a ratchet wrench in my hand, til the weekend when i get time to follow the custom upper and lower grills how-to and airbox mod.

i'd like to (in this order) either 1) fiberglass the hole, then drill so the stock mounting bolt goes through snugly, 2) fabricate a spacer. i have access to lathes at school, i can make nice aluminum ones orrrrr 3) just buy the damn poly mounts and be done with it.

mainly what i'm asking is, without the spacer there's some play, right?? perhaps if i jack the engine up, and tighten that bolt enough so the metal sleeve stays in place to the chassis the play won't matter??

also, perhaps i can call turbotechracing tomorrow and see if they can just sell me the spacers that come with their mounts, make life easier for me.

 

if you have access to a lathe just build an aluminum mount insert. itll vibrate real bad but that motor isnt gonna move. i wouldnt do both though as having it held solid both front and back could cause the mount brackets/tranny case to crack from stress.

 

There is a root cause; this I have fixed it with no vibration. None of these solid mounts address the root cause of the issue so with respect please dont say there is no fix without vibration. I use the stock rear mount replace the front and do it all for about 200 bucks...I have posted before about the root cause so as no one appears to listen or care i just enjoy spinning the wheels wearing my tires out and enjoying no wheel hop and no vibration....good luck with the rest of the non fixes...cheers

 

Isn't your fix rotating the motor or something totally bizarre like that? I'd love to hear your solution but at first glance it sounded like more effort than necessary.

 

and how does ^^ address my question? and you do what for $200? obviously there are fixes, if you READ anything in this post you'd understand i cant spend a lot of money. just asking about the gap in the motor mount, the metal part in the pics, and why it is bigger than the bolt. spin your tires all you want in canada, on the freakin snow!!

this isn't to you, dain it was to the person above you btw. you're providing useful info

 

They do, the stock ones have a sleeve in them also, but it is NON removable...

Filling your stock mounts will still give you vibs, it is just you run the risk of your "filled" mounts falling apart.

Yeah, GM states it, but the bad part is what happens when you rotote your engine and your exhaust downpipe is now hitting your firewall or such? So now you would also need a cutsom down pipe, I dont think all the work is worth it, as just like all other FWD cars (SRT, Cavalier, Cobalt, etc) solid mounts (hard durameter polyurathane) do the job just fine to stop wheel hop.

Even the SS/TC gets wheel hop with stock mounts, and GM did rotate the engine they stated... So does it really work we ask. BTW we HAVE a SS/TC here first hand and it hops with stock mounts.

 

pm shabodah....he can tell you...

back to RL land we can discuss it there good buddy....lol....it isn't bizarre it corrects axle alignment...car was not designed for the M35 etc...and its a lot less effort than changing two mounts. How simple is it? I think even you could do it....just kidding....

where did you find that GM rotated the motor on the LNF ? hmmm think about that my friend; as for the solution which was developed in late 2004 ( hey i was there!) the LSJ exhaust does not hit the firewall, and it does not on the GM road race cars with 3 inch exhaust, but rracers dont care about vibration. Unless like blackss/sc you have installed a turbo on an LSJ car, then there is an issue..... i drive it every day and i can see out of the rear view mirror...lol perhaps the prudent thing to do would be to PM me and find out about it and just maybe there is a business opportunity for you because frankly the vibration from solid mounts is un frickkin' believable and a non starter for most daily drivers and non fanatics and that maybe why folks sell them after trying them....anyway gone racing so taking a break from the css.net

 

my mounts r filled with 100% polyurethane, they are stiff but the material in it (the construction adhesive poly) is rubbery, took a chunk after it dried and was bouncing it on the floor lol. i have no doubt this stuff is durable, plus with the work i've put in i'd have no problems buying the TTR ones once these have had it (if i get my filled ones to my liking)

personally, after having solid mounts for a week i love the vibes. my car without them now would seem very strange, and i'm extremely pleased with the crispness of the shifter now.

the TTR mounts, which i will eventually get when i get some extra $$, have a sleeve in the middle which fits the center bolt. however the stock mounts have a bigger hole, just wondering why. i guess in oeder to make a solid mount comparable to the TTR mount, i'd have to emulate it by filling in the center gap as well. their mount fits the bolt, gm's stock one does not hence this post's purpose.

as for that, it would center the mount and have the bolt fit in the center, keeping the pressure on the mount, rather than allow the engine to move b4 the mount starts to do its thing. i don't think i'd rotate the engine at all it'd be centered. it isn't too much work, i've only spent $5 so far and it has been a fun learning experience that has kept me home and with tools in my hand, rather than out maxxing out my credit card at the bar!

i almost missed this...
i'm stock on my engine right now, is that possible to crack the tranny or block?! scary stuff... i launch pretty well im not a racer but i can drive, i never put stress on the tranny or engine from engaging improperly causing jerkiness.

thanks for every1's input so far. really getting me psyched for when i can get those mounts! no more heat lamps & nights under my car! heh. well, cept 1 more night to fill the center gap


merged doublepost...


as a mcgyver-esque fix, i used propoxy 20 the stuff you roll together into a gray compound that dries very stiff and filled the center holes of my mounts. i then tapped and drilled the center for 12mm which let the bolt slide through with a little coaxing from a hammer. i reemed it through a few times to let it slide without play for ease of installation. (b4 any1 says it's too much work, i removed the mounts epoxied tapped drilled and reinstalled in an hour and a half. **** dries in 20! )

when i was under the car putting the rear tranny mount in, i noticed when i got the center bolt through the bracket on the tranny, i looked under at the 3 15mm bolt threads on the mount... looks like they weren't angled straight down and i couldn't get the bolts to line up. i let a bit of pressure off the hydralic jack supporting the engine and i was able to slightly rotate the engine to get the bolts aligned perfectly. after securing it, i moved to the front mount which matched up perfectly, so im optimistic.

i'm itching to test it out thoroughly, the roads r wet from the recent rain though i often used to get the worst hop when the roads were slick. i tried two 2k clutch drops and i had zero hop, just a bit of lazy spin b4 grabbing where as b4 i had a tiny bit, which is a good sign. but when it's dry out tomorrow i'll post back. if it works and wheelhop is gone, looks like the DIY'ers that want to fill their mounts will need to fill the gap like i did or fabricate a sleeve.

p.s. the vibes are slightly less intense now, but still there. keep your fingers crossed...

 

HOLY ****! it worked!!! uber happy right now... stupid stock mount hole being too large! thanks for all the help everyone, much appreciated!! the vibes are down a bit but still there, which is fine they are quite pleasant, and i achieved my desired results. TTR you guys rock and thanks for always inputting valuable and helpful information!