this I agree with, not sure why its not in how-to to start with.

 

cause there already is one. i do like johns pictures though. i should have taken more.

 

Steal them for yours, lol.

 

i stuck this one so it'll be at the top of the drivetrain page. and it actually pulls up more often from searching than mine comes up.

added a link to it at the top of mine as well

 

i'm not in to the whole stealing thing..

 

I installed the LNF mounts on my 07 LSJ, and I have vibrations. I did not support the engine from the bottom when I removed the old mounts, so I know things shifted. I jacked up the trans to get the new mounts to line up with the cross bolts. If the engine/trans shifted side to side, how do I move it back and get everything lined up right? I now have 4 jack stands so I can support it in 4 corners to keep the car level.

 

start the process again. support the motor; loosen the top mounts. relax the rear and then the front mount. remove one bolt from the passenger side top mount and look at its relative position, that will tell the story. Go to the first page of this thread, second last photo, will show you the correct positioning of that mount, which should tell the story. Understand this DOES NOT apply to LNF replacement mounts front and rear, ONLY Powell rotated mounts.

good luck.

 

When I loosen the bolts on the top engine mount, I loosened the center bolt long enough to see its orientation. It is angled facing the right. Should it be perpendicular to to the plate with the oversized holes? Does this indicate how the motor/trans is out of balance and which direction I need to correct? I tried redoing it yesterday, and I also loosened the transmission side upper mount. I supported the bottom with a jack, but was not sure if I should jack up the trans until there is no weight on the mount or just enough to support the trans?

 

go to picture 9 on the first post. Thats what it should look like. It is entirely possible, as the drivers side upper mount has no capability of resisting fender side to fender side movement for the engine trans unit to slide towards the passenger side.

support the trans/engine with a jack and a piece of wood, doing your best to balance it equally by placing the jack and wood under the trans by the engine pan slightly rearward.
Then loosen the top bolts and the lower mount cross bolts, and use a prybar to move the motor back by levering between the passenger side rail and the engine. Dont pry on the tensioners, or the pullies or the alternator etc.

read the how to again?

hope this helps

 

question... can you use the ttr engine mount with these? or is the stock mount the better option? right now i have the ttr installed, but i have an extra stock mount i can put back on.

 

its best to use the stock mount as it has extra large holes that permit rotation. If you use a non stock mount you are best to machine the engine mounting block for the mount. that requires some careful dimensional changes, so we just make a new block and it is not cheap to make. stock mount is best. any other mount will increase vibration and may eventually cause some damage to the other mounts .

 

ok cool thanks. stock mount it is!

 

Is there a way to avoid this? Can I put a second jack under the engine for support? I'm going to order the rotated mount soon and going to do the install myself but I don't want to screw up everything. Also, would you recommend the mount with coilovers?

 

I prefer the car to be on four jack stands to avoid this issue. Regardless of coil overs dropped up down or inside out, rotated mounts on the manual shift delta platform cars really helps fix power hop.

 

I did it on 2 stands but had a jack under the oil pan the entire time to make sure the engine didn't move. I think I had to push the engine a bit up top with a prybar... can't remember, was too busy ripping out OTTP's garbage instead of remembering the exact steps. lol

The rotated mount w/ the LNF rear trans mount is da bomb diggity. Really helps the car put the power down without breaking things...

 

I Installed my stage 1 John Powell Mount yesterday and I am getting a lot of vibes under 1000 RPM. If I accelerate at low rpm's or in reverse I feel the transmission shaking. We tried loosening all the bolts and tried rebalancing the motor and it seems to have helped but there are still a lot of vibes under 1000 rpm.

Is that normal or should I keep trying to rebalance the motor?

 

impossible to tell. does it change a/c on/off? Hard not to be
worrying about the install or other things - exhaust contact with body etc.

These mounts are not stock and the NVH is different as the absorption capability is different with a smaller harder insert.

 

It does make a difference with the a/c on... it makes it vibrates more. When I am driving I don't get any vibes. It is when I am idling that I get a lot more vibes then before. When I am baking up I get vibrations and when I release the clutch slowly at low Rpm that will make the car vibrate.

Would those thing be considered normal with the new mount?

 

a/c on/off yes. Clutch release vibration? no clue. Check driver mod, install, clutch. clutch should only be released slowly to the point of take up at that moment on its a switch, and for all forward gears beyond first.

 

My Mechanic friend recommended not to jack under the oil pan so we jacked the right side of the motor and I think that might have caused the motor to be slightly off balance. I will try loosening all the bolt again while putting the jack under the oil pan to rebalance everything.

Thanks for the help

 

Umm, obviously jacking on an aluminum oil pan is a bad idea, but did you miss this?

 

Haha nope that is how we did it. But I was thinking maybe if I would of supported the passenger side a little more while all the bolts were loose I would be getting less vibrations.

 

There is no doubt that the motor and transt can shift sideways during the install particularly if you jack the car up at the front only. Good luck

 

I just got stage 2 rotated mounts from a member on here and installed them yesterday at work using a lift. I had terrible vibrations however I did not see this how-to. I then got online last night and read I needed to loosen the top 3 engine mounts bolts to let it settle and then retorque, I did this at work today and I still have vibrations. After skimming through this thread, and I mean really skimming, I think the solution would be to re-rack the vehicle, loosen all of the lower rear mount bolts including the through bolt, front mount bolts including through bolt, and the top 3 engine mount bolts then re-torque following the sequence in the how-to. Am I wrong in thinking this or is this correct? Hopefully John can advise.

 

^^^ yupper.