hm maybe ill just go with another stock one haha

 

yeah man, first one I did took me about 8 hours on jackstands, and hand tools. I bet with a lift and air tools both of us could knock it out in under 4.
as for the bully clutches, unfortunately you have to use the 4 puck one, the six puck is too heavy a disk and won't release at higher rpms.

 

mine runs great, i got one the first ones though

 

this one was also one of the first, and for reasons not really worth mentioning is just collecting dust at my friends place

hmmm i better look into that!

 

i thinks i knows why. just make sure you bleed it good if you go with it

 

will do homefry

 

Stu... when you are dropping the Tranny... and reading those instructions.

There is only ONE bolt behind the Starter that needs to come out... not two. I spent an hour looking for that second bolt, that GM said was there.

 

GL with the tranny drop

i did mine in about 9 hours messin around not workin on it the whole time...but it still takes a good amount of time

with a lift / air tools it can be done in under 3 hours by 1 person(if they know what their doing and have all the tools) im hoping to get a hold of a lift to drop my trans again

but anyway, good luck, and i hope you have the time on your hands to do this...

ALSO if you haven't already, replace the throwout bearing...never hurts to do it, especially if your throwing in a new clutch(this is why i have to drop my trans again, mine is going bad, it squeaks very loud)

 

That mount is RIGHT under the Fuse box. You should be able to just use the one on your car now.

And an Impact is a necessity!

 

such small trannys....gesh

 

thanks for all this info guys. i havent decided if im going to do it or have someone do it yet. the tranny came with a throw out bearing so i might just leave it in there (only has 5K miles on it)

 

It isnt thaaaaat bad . I got stuck doing mine alone couple weeks ago

Basicallly without being specific ...if u need a desription beyond this I dont thinnk u should be doing it .

-support engine . I used a hoist because with a sliding rail with hooks and attached that to the engines assemble line hooks ....its all I had . Last time I had the adjustable GM frame rail tool .
--Remove CAI ( dont have too , the xtra room is nice though )
-remove fuse box
-tied up all the wiring , take off ABS module connector so u can move the harness it attached to completely outa the way
-remove the shifter cables and 2 connectors from trans
-remove starter and ic pump tied it up outa the way then remove bracket
-Remove wheels
-remove tie rod ends
-remove slider bolt from ball joints
-remove steering rack and sway bar bolts
-remove fender splash guards ) u need to to get to the front cradle bolts .
-remove 4 21 mm cradle bolts and drop cradle
-remove all trans mounts
-remove axles . People have their prefereces here . It was easy and qwik for me just to take the brakes completely off , then unbolt the steering knuckes and pull the axles out with the knuckes attached . If I was on a lift like last time I would I woulda left the knuckes attached as theres enuff play in the shock assembley o pull them out and tie the ends up outa the way . I was on the floor so I wanted all the room I could get .
-remove the remaining drivers side trans mount bolts on the frame rail .
-then lower the engine a bit so the driverside hangs down
-support the trans and remove all bolts . I was alone without a trans jack . this trans is shaped like frikin vert ramp so u gotta get creative I ended up taking the padded seat off my stool and set it on the jack pad on the jack . It was enuff cusion the trans sank in and didnt fall off .
- separate trans and motor , I lowered and pull the trans out the wheel well

Do your clutch , then reverse the process . Make sure u have 10 mm reverse star socket for the clutch . If i didnt have an impact I would beat my head in with a sledge ....just warning for those wwith only hand tools . Make sure u have snchromesh to refill the trans with as some will come out when u remove the axles . Also when I put the shifter cables back on the trans , I put some grease on the ball fittings on the forks , it made my shifter feel a little smoother operating .

Stu - the TB should be fine with only 5K miles . Just make sure it move freely . My warranty trans the TB was sticky and not smooth feeling when u manually compressed and released it and it only had a few thousand miles ....I had one in the shop with 10K miles I replaced it with that moved freely and smoothly like it should .

 

thanks!
thats a pretty good overview

 

cool, fingers crossed i MIGHT be able to get this thing put in under warranty. if so i will laugh like a madman for days on end

 

LOL , mine was replaced with 259 miles left to go on the 60K powertrain . I cant believe they did it because it was my spec clutch that took the trans out to begin with as I found out this time around . The car never had warranty work before this so maybe that went in my favor .The Spec is just entirely nother issue in itself ...OMG .

...and I did . Now I wish I coulda done the swap so I could have realized the spec has 0 business going back in . But the new free trans is nice , to bad I couldnt haved sqeaked a LSD out of it ...damn vin verification FTL

 

well here is an easy way to tell if your bearing is good, ill show you my old one and my new one and point out the what to look for, brb in a min with pics

on the left is a new one, right my old one where you need to look as at the end area, the gap on the bearing on the right is no good, you can actually play around with it and move it from looking like the gap on the left then to the lookin like the one on the right, kinda hard to explain, since i can pick apart a throwout bearing

just something to look for and check, the bearing should have absolutely no play in it