My setup is two Kicker CVR10s in a custom ported box. I had a Sony Xplod 1000w amp (cheap from walmart) but ever since i hooked it up in my Cobalt it goes into thermal protect and shuts off. All the amp was powering was the two subs. I had 8 gauge power and ground wire. Subs are wired to amp with 14gauge wire.

I had this same setup in my 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo and never had a problem pushing it to its max for several hours.

My friend gave some kind of 1400w amp for me to try to see if maybe my Sony Amp was blown. Well hooked it up this morning and itll hit maybe 10 seconds and the amp shuts off. No power lights or anything. Ive checked the wiring to my Sony Xplod Headunit so many times i could do it with my eyes closed and everything is wired perfect.

Ive seen people on here who are running 1000w+ with no problems on the stock battery and stock altenator.

So my question is what else should i check? This setup was clean and beat like hell in my Jeep but the Balt just seems to not be able to keep the amp on.



Im taking it to one of my buddies today that use to be a professional installer at a shop in Tennessee to see if he can figure it out. But i know theres tons of audio gurus on here and i need your input.


Thanks, Logan.

 

sounds like either wiring to the subs or blown subs. have u pulled them out of the box? what impedance are the subs? whats the model of the amp?

 

My friend helped me get it running last night. Checked all the wiring and turns out my connections on my fuse block were burnt and started melting. Replaced with a new fuse block and it runs like a champ.


Then i hosted a party last night and my Balt was the party machine. I melted my 8gauge power wire to the amp. Beat the hell out of for 5-6 hours without stopping. Used a 1/8th tank of gas keeping the battery charged.

Should i put 0gauge for the power and ground wire since its a 1400w mono block amp? And i have it bridged.

 

The subs are brand new. Just bought a little over a month ago and i havent really beat on them since my amp would overheat. Theyre 4ohm but i have them bridged at 2ohms.

 

lol thats why min impedance bridged is 4 ohms what size fuse do u have and what part of the wire burned?

 

I have an 80A inline fuse in the fuse block and a 60A fuse in the amp. The power wire where it connects into the amp melted. The copper turned black and the plastic coating melted everywhere.

My buddy check the amp today and said i fried a sensor or something in the amp and it wont work anymore.

 

ya not surprising im sure it can be fixed but you want to use the same size fuse on the power wire as in the amp

 

I ended up saying screw it. Got a new 1500w amp, 2 farad cap and some 0 gauge wire.

Should be here by friday and imma install it when i get it!

 

What, really? We can do this? Someone explain this wizardry, cause my 400 rms amp was making my headlights dim before I switched to HIDs.

If this is true I am so stoked but also wondering why I fail so hard.

 

theres alot of factors that come into play. how old ur batt is. and how efficient ur amp is are the 2 big ones

 

Try unhooking one sub. then turn on the system. Amp may not be strong enough for the subs.