hey guys i just bought the JBL GTO 1204 BP-D. which amp do u think is the safest/best amp for me to get?
if something is too powerful or not powerful enough let me know

heres the specs...

Size 12"
Impedance 2 x 4Ohms
Sensitivity 96dB
Peak Power Handling 1,800 Watts
RMS Power Range 600 Watts



1) MTX AUDIO 1000XD

2000W Max, Class D Monoblock Amplifier
RMS Power Rating:
4 ohms: 700 watts x 1 chan.
2 ohms: 1000 watts x 1 chan.
Max Power Output: 2000 watts x 1 chan.
Variable low-pass filter (40-200 Hz, 24 dB/octave)
Subsonic Filter (20-50 Hz, 12 dB/octave)
Frequency response: 20-250 Hz

2) ALPINE MRP-M1000 M

mono subwoofer car amplifier
600 watts RMS x 1 at 4 ohms (1,000 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms)
variable low-pass filter (50-200 Hz, 24 dB/octave)
variable bass boost (0-12 dB at 50 Hz)
subsonic filter (15 Hz, 24 dB/octave)
Class D amp

3) HIFONICS BXi1908d

D Monoblock Amplifier
RMS Power Rating:
4 ohms: 600 watts x 1 chan.
2 ohms: 1200 watts x 1 chan.
1 ohm: 1900 watts x 1 chan.
Variable low-pass filter (35-250 Hz, 24 dB/octave)
Subsonic Filter (24 dB at 15-35 Hz)

4) HIFONICS BRUTUS BXi2010D

1-Ohm Power Rating 1x2000
2-Ohm Power Rating 1x1300
4-Ohm Power Rating 1x650
1-Channel Mono-Block
Super D-Class Amplifier Topography

5) HIFONICS BRUTUS BRZ1700.1D

Brutus Series Monoblock Class D Car Amplifier
RMS Power Rating (@ 14.4V):
4 ohms: 600 watts x 1 chan.
2 ohms: 1200 watts x 1 chan.
1 ohm: 1700 watts x 1 chan.
Variable low-pass filter (35-250 Hz, 24 dB/octave)
Subsonic filter (15-35 Hz, 24 dB/octave)
Damping factor: >290
Frequency response: 35-250 Hz

6) Hifonics HFI2000D

Monoblock Class D Amplifier
RMS Power at 4 ohms: 650 watts x 1 chan.
RMS Power at 2 ohms: 1300 watts x 1 chan.
RMS Power at 1 ohms: 2000 watts x 1 chan.
Maximum Power Output: 2000 watts
Adjustable low-pass filter (30-250 Hz, 24 dB/octave)
Subsonic filter (15-35 Hz)
Damping factor: >200
Frequency response: 15-250 Hz

7) JBL GTO 14001

RMS Power @ 4 Ohms: 1200W x 1
RMS Power @ 2 Ohms: 1500W x 1
Signal-to-Noise (dBA) 108dBA (reference rated power into 4 ohms)
THD 0.05% (rated power at 4 ohms)

 

im not going to read all those, but the impedance should be the same as the sub itself, and probably mono, and a good brand.

 

2 or 5...they have the same impedance as the sub so pick one of those. You don't want to go to far over the RMS range or to far under, both could and would hurt your sub. Number 7 would blow your sub to pieces (not the good way either) lol

 

all too big... you want 600w at 2 ohms

 

Oops my bad, I thought you were talking about just one sub, not a dual enclosure....follow what emp said

 

idk... i was talking about a single speaker. If he has a single D4 sub rated at 600w rms then he needs an amp that makes 600w rms @ 2ohms

unless he plans on lighting it up with almost double the rated power a 1000w amp is a bad idea

 

Andddddd I'd stick to a good brand like the alpine you had up there, the cheaper brands like hifonics etc etc will give you problems and typically don't put out their rated power

 

So what I'm seeing is 600 RMS @ 2 ohms for the enclosure, unless they have a 4 ohm set like alpine does with their type R's, but I'm not seeing that so I'll go with

600 RMS @ 2ohms from 2 subs, so that's 300 RMS a piece

in which case, the new Alpine PDX-M6 should do it, either way it powers 600 @ 2 and 4 ohms
http://alpine-usa.com/product/view/pdx-m6/default

 

its 2 jbl gto1204bp subs in a bandpass box. it comes like that. each sub is 300 watts rms

 

You need to underpower that box.
I put one of the single 12 boxes in my buddies car, running off a JBL 300.1 (I think the specs were 200@4 and 300@2)
I set the gain at 2/3 to start.
2/3 of 200 watts is like 150 give or take. Well witin the safe zone for a 300 watt sub.
Voice coil blew within a week.

Bandpass is a whole different story, Emp will know the reasons better than I could tell you but I do know that its alot rougher on the subs.

Added_ The only subs I have ever seen preform well in a bandpass box were JL W1's, on 2 diferent ocasions. Maybe its because they don't have much travel to them, but thats just a guess. I really don't why I just know they did.

BTW- if you blow one of those subs, good luck replacing it with something else, the hole they left to get the sub out is big enough for that sub only anything with a bigger magnet is not going in there.

 

damn bp is a bunch of ******** hahaha. emp, what r u thinkin i should do?

 

I just went over this with the guy at my car audio place after my amp went bad.

Im running the stock AAS with aftermarket dvd player, sub and sub amp. I cant turn my vol up past 20 because the speakers can only take so much because i need to bypass the factory amp to my alpine dvd headunit. So i got a 4ohm P3 12 DVC subwoofer in a sealed box with a rockford mono 500/1 amp. I had him tune the amp till i get the bypass done.

So really if u want 1 sub with a mono amp get a 4ohm sub and wire it to 2ohms so u get even power. Then later u can get another 4ohm sub and wire it to 1ohm on the amp. I just adjust the sub level, P-EQ on the headunit to lower the bass on the speakers and my bassmaker so the sub doesnt get distorted at high vols. So if u have stock AAS unit u need a 4ch amp or have it bypass, or if ur like me ull have clipping, distoration, or you wont be able toturn ur vol up as much as it should go.

 

I don't think the gain sets the watts, it is there to match the head unit power to the speaker power, this is what I was told.

 

buy a 600w 2 ohm amp and see what happens. or even a smaller one if u want

 

That's what I said but I guess I'm still a newb, so no one trusts me...eh w/e lol

 

Its not that nobody trust you its that people want as many options as possible.

moranjames89- You are right but thats not really what I was talking about. When you see the specs on an amp, there taken at full power/gain. if you turn the gain down the power output goes down with it. Its not really scientific but it works for me so...

OP- First I'm going to let you in on a little secret. Peak Power or Max Power is nothing but a marketing scam, pay no attention to it. Im order to achieve those kinda numbers you have to stand on your head, rub your belly, be juggling a ball with your feet, and be singing the national anthem all at the same time.
RMS power is the only number you should pay attention to, that goes for amps, subs, speakers, ect.

If your looking for a decent 600@2ohm amp look into the JBL GTO 700.1 I see you have the 1400 in your list. I had the 600.1 running 2 W3's and it sounded good. For the money there a good all around amp that won't give you any overheating issues.
Just start low and work your way up, power wise.

 

realistically there's alot of variables and most of the time we consumers never get the real story

but peak power can never be achieved by an amplifier. subwoofer makes some sense but not amplifier

 

yea that sounds good to me. is the jbl 700 gonna be too much power though?

 

Honestly you might want to look into some other amps as well.

For a somewhat modest budget theres some amps id buy.

Digital Designs
Sundown Audio

For more money but a pretty high quality amp

there MMAT's
or if you have a bit more cash yet...
Zapco (no I dont mean the I-Force line)

Theres obviously others but im a fan of those.


Im just not a fan of mainstream car audio....

 

Are you trying to say that MMATS is higher quality than Sundown or DD?
Or that Zapco is better than all of them.

Dont get me wrong MMATS makes some decent stuff but there overpriced. And Zapco like Orion used to be good, like 15 years ago when cheater amps were still around. Now there both just really overpriced and under rated (power wise)

I was trying to suggest an amp that cheap and still preforms. The only sub amp that DD makes that would come close would be the M1b, and its twice the price. Trust me I know I just put one in the car that you see in my sig, along with a DD S4a.
Sundown Audio is not even in the same price league as unless you go to thye SAE line which doesn`t have the same heat sink as the SAZ line. Yeah a SAE 1000D would do 600 watts at 2 ohms for about $400 but did you see the list of choices the OP put down. I don`t think he is too familiar with Sundown or DD.

FYI- My Cobalt was running a DD M2a with a S4 until Emp sold me his SAZ 3000D so now that sits in spot where the M2 was. The subs are 2 DD 3512`s.

 

yea im really not looking to spend to much on the amp. im going to go with the jbl gto700.1 thanks for your helps guys