Amplifier issue? or door speaker?
Amplifier issue? or door speaker?
I have been getting an annoying faint static that sounded like it was coming from my front right speaker for quite a while. If I turn off my head unit and turn it back on it would go away temporarily, but would always come back especially after hitting a bump in the road. I figured maybe it was my head unit and I've been meaning to upgrade anyway. So this week I installed a double DIN android unit and now I don't get any output from the front right speaker. I seem to only get a faint output of music from the tweeter. I tested the output from the head unit by switching the front left speaker with the front right and still nothing from the front right speaker so I know it isn't the head unit.
Has anyone experienced this issue? Is it the amplifier under the dash? Components in the door? The speaker itself?
Has anyone experienced this issue? Is it the amplifier under the dash? Components in the door? The speaker itself?
Easiest way to know if the speaker is dead or you have a break in wiring (or the head unit, but this is very rare) is with a multimeter. If you have stock speakers, I would upgrade them anyways. Tweeters are not very powerful themselves as they are only designed for certain higher frequencies.
personally id think it was either speaker or wiring.
yes the amp could be the problem but its a 6 channel amp with 2 channels for the tweeters 2 for the mids and 2 for the rear/sub. the likely hood of part of the amp breaking vs the whole thing is less than a majority. the likelihood of 2 channels breaking that just so happen to be on the same side of the car and the rest of the amp working perfectly fine is going to be super low.
yes the amp could be the problem but its a 6 channel amp with 2 channels for the tweeters 2 for the mids and 2 for the rear/sub. the likely hood of part of the amp breaking vs the whole thing is less than a majority. the likelihood of 2 channels breaking that just so happen to be on the same side of the car and the rest of the amp working perfectly fine is going to be super low.
personally id think it was either speaker or wiring.
yes the amp could be the problem but its a 6 channel amp with 2 channels for the tweeters 2 for the mids and 2 for the rear/sub. the likely hood of part of the amp breaking vs the whole thing is less than a majority. the likelihood of 2 channels breaking that just so happen to be on the same side of the car and the rest of the amp working perfectly fine is going to be super low.
yes the amp could be the problem but its a 6 channel amp with 2 channels for the tweeters 2 for the mids and 2 for the rear/sub. the likely hood of part of the amp breaking vs the whole thing is less than a majority. the likelihood of 2 channels breaking that just so happen to be on the same side of the car and the rest of the amp working perfectly fine is going to be super low.
I personally like hertz and have them in my current car (hi energy). but to be honest there's a lot of stuff out there a lot good and a lot bad, plus add in personal preference and its hard to say.
What I will say is this the stock amp and speakers are 2 ohm. a large majority of car speakers are 4 ohm. What that means is if you just replace the speakers you will need to get a 2 ohm set or you will be getting only half or less power from the amp with 4 ohm speakers. finding 2 ohm is going to be a bit more challenging but it is possible.
If you go with a 4 ohm set you should do what's called an amp bypass. you'd unplug the amp cut the wires that connect to the speakers and either run new wires from the head unit to the those wires or connect the amp input wires to the speaker out wires and connect the HU normally (normally would be dependent on ur harness.... this would need speaker output from the HU not RCA output) remember to plug in the amp again (for the rear speakers/sub to work) and terminate the wires coming out of the amp so they dont touch anything
the amp bypass isnt really "hard" in a sense but also not the easiest thing in the world. just rerouting the wires in a sense. if this doesnt sound like something you can do you could pay a shop to do it or just stick with the 2 ohm speakers. if the amp ever goes bad you could do an amp bypass at that time (if its actually bad now you'd need to do the bypass anyway so)
What I will say is this the stock amp and speakers are 2 ohm. a large majority of car speakers are 4 ohm. What that means is if you just replace the speakers you will need to get a 2 ohm set or you will be getting only half or less power from the amp with 4 ohm speakers. finding 2 ohm is going to be a bit more challenging but it is possible.
If you go with a 4 ohm set you should do what's called an amp bypass. you'd unplug the amp cut the wires that connect to the speakers and either run new wires from the head unit to the those wires or connect the amp input wires to the speaker out wires and connect the HU normally (normally would be dependent on ur harness.... this would need speaker output from the HU not RCA output) remember to plug in the amp again (for the rear speakers/sub to work) and terminate the wires coming out of the amp so they dont touch anything
the amp bypass isnt really "hard" in a sense but also not the easiest thing in the world. just rerouting the wires in a sense. if this doesnt sound like something you can do you could pay a shop to do it or just stick with the 2 ohm speakers. if the amp ever goes bad you could do an amp bypass at that time (if its actually bad now you'd need to do the bypass anyway so)
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