Retaining Chimes with Head Unit and Amplifier
#1
Retaining Chimes with Head Unit and Amplifier
Hey all,
I've searched for this, but couldn't turn up anything really conclusive, as they all seemed to relate back to the factory Pioneer amplifier.
I'm finally looking to upgrade to a 7" touchscreen (I believe I have settled on the Pioneer AVH-W4400NEX - the 4500 is out now, but does not seem to have, well, any, extra features for an extra $100), and will, at the same time, install my a/d/s 8-channel amp I've had for quite some time to amplify all my a/d/s speakers (which I've been running off stock head unit power for years now - when they can handle, and should be fed much, much more).
The issue I am running into - and maybe it's just that I'm not entirely understanding how they're all setup to work - is that all the chime/warning retaining modules don't seem to be made for using an external amplifier, at least, they don't seem like it to me. Losing the chimes wouldn't be acceptable, and I would prefer not to have some additional chime module sitting under the dash somewhere if I can keep the factory sounds coming out of the LF speaker as they always have.
Is there a harness out there that'll let me do this?
Thanks!
I've searched for this, but couldn't turn up anything really conclusive, as they all seemed to relate back to the factory Pioneer amplifier.
I'm finally looking to upgrade to a 7" touchscreen (I believe I have settled on the Pioneer AVH-W4400NEX - the 4500 is out now, but does not seem to have, well, any, extra features for an extra $100), and will, at the same time, install my a/d/s 8-channel amp I've had for quite some time to amplify all my a/d/s speakers (which I've been running off stock head unit power for years now - when they can handle, and should be fed much, much more).
The issue I am running into - and maybe it's just that I'm not entirely understanding how they're all setup to work - is that all the chime/warning retaining modules don't seem to be made for using an external amplifier, at least, they don't seem like it to me. Losing the chimes wouldn't be acceptable, and I would prefer not to have some additional chime module sitting under the dash somewhere if I can keep the factory sounds coming out of the LF speaker as they always have.
Is there a harness out there that'll let me do this?
Thanks!
#4
Senior Member
What 4 channel amp are you using for the regular speakers? If you are wiring into the 4 chan using that head unit you will either have to use either the speaker level input or get a line out converter to use rca input
#6
Senior Member
Im guessing it comes with its own converter harness? Because from what I saw that head unit doesn't have rca out. (in pictures anyway) But anyway if your doing rca input to the amp then get a line out converter, cut the wires to the interface speaker and wire those to the converter. Then use a rca 2 to 1 adapter for the left front into the amp. You'll then be able to set the volume of the chimes using the line out converter gain adjustment while still having audio from the headunit.
#7
Yeah, I believe it should - it has three pairs of 4V RCA outputs.
Could I also just get the simpler chime retention module and just wire it into the LF speaker feed? The 2-1 idea is good to - but not having to use a LOC (I do have my old PAC, so I'd just use that) is even better.
Could I also just get the simpler chime retention module and just wire it into the LF speaker feed? The 2-1 idea is good to - but not having to use a LOC (I do have my old PAC, so I'd just use that) is even better.
#8
Senior Member
That should work but you would not have a way to adjust volume on the chime. Those things tend to be pretty loud. Either way should work for you and you wouldn't have to have the speaker module sitting somewhere inside the dash, you'd only have to worry about the chime module.
#9
I think maybe it was one of the Axxess module has speaker-level outputs that also had a dial for the chime volume? I'll have to look again and see...
But perfect, sounds a lot less complicated than it could be.
EDIT: This one, I believe: https://axxessinterfaces.com/product/GMOS-LAN-03
But perfect, sounds a lot less complicated than it could be.
EDIT: This one, I believe: https://axxessinterfaces.com/product/GMOS-LAN-03
Last edited by MP81; 04-12-2019 at 10:24 AM. Reason: Added Module PN
#10
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I think maybe it was one of the Axxess module has speaker-level outputs that also had a dial for the chime volume? I'll have to look again and see...
But perfect, sounds a lot less complicated than it could be.
EDIT: This one, I believe: https://axxessinterfaces.com/product/GMOS-LAN-03
But perfect, sounds a lot less complicated than it could be.
EDIT: This one, I believe: https://axxessinterfaces.com/product/GMOS-LAN-03
The PAC one is cheaper though.
#11
Perfect, that looks to be my ticket then. It would appear I don't need to connect any of the other speaker leads up except for running to/from the LF speaker crossover. From what I can tell, this also includes the harness that clips into the factory one, so that's how it gets the chime/turn signal sound note? And it also means I do not have to buy a separate one, correct?
#12
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Perfect, that looks to be my ticket then. It would appear I don't need to connect any of the other speaker leads up except for running to/from the LF speaker crossover. From what I can tell, this also includes the harness that clips into the factory one, so that's how it gets the chime/turn signal sound note? And it also means I do not have to buy a separate one, correct?
#13
What do I need the RCA cables for, related to the chimes? The Axxess module looks like it is speaker-level only. My thinking is I'd run RCA out to the speaker amp in the back of the car (along with the sub amp), then run my speaker wires up front for the front speakers - the LF, specifically, would then run into and out of the chime module, since that appears to be how it is designed to be wired - at least from what I can tell, the instructions lack a little detail in some areas, but from what I see, it connects to the output of the speaker leads from the head unit, into the chime, and then out to the car's speaker wires. Since I'm not using headunit power, the "input" would be from the amp, and the output would be to the crossover.
#14
Senior Member
iTrader: (5)
i'm going to be honest i was going to research the components more to provide a better answer but i'm sorta not about it so here goes
The HU has RCA out to go to the amp just fine (i checked the specs the other day) the chime module you want is going to be an RCA module likely from metra that will run inline from HU to module to amp to speakers. a speaker level module will get fried by the amp
The HU has RCA out to go to the amp just fine (i checked the specs the other day) the chime module you want is going to be an RCA module likely from metra that will run inline from HU to module to amp to speakers. a speaker level module will get fried by the amp
#16
So it seems like there are two trains of thought here - one says I'll be okay to wire in the harness into the speaker leads on their way to the speakers, and one says that the module will fry from the added power to the speakers from the amp.
One thing I did happen to see is the modules that connect into the speaker leads reduce speaker volume when the chimes are active - if that's the case, I'm not sure I'd be okay with that either.
The harnesses with the extra chime module...how cheesy do those sound? That's my only real concern about those. I wanted to retain OE functionality, having it come out of the speaker with the factory sound, but not if it's going to be a massive pain in the ass, or start lowering the sound from the LF channel when my turn signal is on.
Wish they just had one that went in-line in the RCAs and worked as factory did, but that doesn't seem like it's going to exist.
One thing I did happen to see is the modules that connect into the speaker leads reduce speaker volume when the chimes are active - if that's the case, I'm not sure I'd be okay with that either.
The harnesses with the extra chime module...how cheesy do those sound? That's my only real concern about those. I wanted to retain OE functionality, having it come out of the speaker with the factory sound, but not if it's going to be a massive pain in the ass, or start lowering the sound from the LF channel when my turn signal is on.
Wish they just had one that went in-line in the RCAs and worked as factory did, but that doesn't seem like it's going to exist.
#17
Senior Member
iTrader: (5)
im about 90% sure that metra used to have a module that had RCA outs but its been years so they probably discontinued it. Of all the module harnesses ive installed most sound meh at best to down right awful. i would say the biggest complaint we had was either the volume in comparison to the music or the tone itself.
just remember how much power a head unit has ~12w rms/40 or 50 peak vs your a/d/s amplifier. when they designed these modules do you think they accounted for the power that 99% of the people will have used or 4x, 8x, 10x that or however powerful your amp is
just remember how much power a head unit has ~12w rms/40 or 50 peak vs your a/d/s amplifier. when they designed these modules do you think they accounted for the power that 99% of the people will have used or 4x, 8x, 10x that or however powerful your amp is
#18
Thanks for all the feedback, everyone. I did end up going with the cheaper chime unit, and it ended up being pretty cheap since I ordered it along with my head unit and Crutchfield gives you a stupid discount on all those things.
Anyway, it sounds...fine, it's fine. Not great, but it could be worse, I suppose (or silent).
Question I have is...since it's a CANBus adapter of sorts, does the Parking Brake feed from there actually work? I hooked it up assuming it did, but when trying to set up Android Auto, it tells me to put the parking brake on, and doing so doesn't make the message go away as it should.
Anyway, it sounds...fine, it's fine. Not great, but it could be worse, I suppose (or silent).
Question I have is...since it's a CANBus adapter of sorts, does the Parking Brake feed from there actually work? I hooked it up assuming it did, but when trying to set up Android Auto, it tells me to put the parking brake on, and doing so doesn't make the message go away as it should.
#21
Looks like it needs the power side:
I like the idea of connecting everything the "way it is supposed to be", but given I am an auto, having to also then remember to apply the parking brake to do anything is obnoxious - especially if it doesn't actually work to allow me to do those things.
LIGHT GREEN LEAD AT POWER CONNECTOR IS DESIGNED TO DETECT PARKED STATUS AND MUST BE CONNECTED TO THE POWER SUPPLY SIDE OF THE PARKING BRAKE SWITCH.
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