DVC boston g5's can't be wired at 1 ohm?
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From: STL
DVC boston g5's can't be wired at 1 ohm?
before you post, realize that the G5's aren't like most DVC subs, they only have 1 negative and 1 positive post. Your suppose to be able to configure the ohms by changing the location of the fuses, I was wondering how I would wire 2 of them down to 1 ohm since they only have 1 binding post, and on the sub it gives you little examples on how you can wire it, but it only shows 2 ohm and 8 ohm, but theres no reason I shouldnt be able to do 1 ohm since there both DVC
any help appericated
any help appericated
Thse specs there showing you are for 1 sub, so if you wan't a 1 ohm load then set each sub for 2 ohms and run them of the same channel of the amp ( if its a mono amp then its the only way if its stereo amp then bridge it to run mono)
Last edited by Spun; Jan 9, 2009 at 06:58 PM.
There should be a wire outline on the amp that tells you which + and which - to use for the bridged operation. It should say "Bridged" and have two lines running to the appropriate terminals.
If not give me the model # of the amp and I'll find it
If not give me the model # of the amp and I'll find it
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From: STL
its a rockford fosgate t10001bd
it is a ported, but the wires inside the box are really short, but basically would it be like this for the positive wire
amp to box
box to positive terminal on sub
sub 1 positive to sub 2 positive
and then for negative
amp to box
box to negative terminal on sub 2
sub 2 negative to sub 1 negative
it is a ported, but the wires inside the box are really short, but basically would it be like this for the positive wire
amp to box
box to positive terminal on sub
sub 1 positive to sub 2 positive
and then for negative
amp to box
box to negative terminal on sub 2
sub 2 negative to sub 1 negative
OK you confused me.
I knew you had the T1000bd, but then you said you had a 2 channel amp so I thought you got a new one.
That amp is a mono amp. There are 2 speaker terminals on it for cosmetic reasons (so you don't have to splice two wires together) the terminals are connected inside and both run off the same output.
So all you have to do is wire the + and - from one of the terminals on the amp to one on the box and from the other on the amp to the other on the box + to + and - to -.
Your amp puts out 4 ohms if its hooked up to one 4 ohm sub 2 ohms if its hooked up to 2 4 ohm subs and 1 ohm if its hooked up to 4 4 ohm subs.
Since you have those awsome G5's they allow you to change the output on them so you don't have to worry about wierd wiring.
So if you have 1 2ohm sub the amp would put out 2ohms, 2 2ohm subs the amp puts out 1 ohm and 4 2 ohm subs I think it takes you to 0.5 ohms or it could be 0.25 ohms I can't recall off the top of my head. (its not to often you hook up 4 2ohm subs to 1 amp, not since the days of the orion reds have I even seen it done) anyway your amp is only 1 ohm stable so it don't matter
BTW- BY sealed chambers I meant is there a piece of wood that divides the two subs inside the box. Since yours only has 1 port then it probably does not but its much easier to do from the outside
I knew you had the T1000bd, but then you said you had a 2 channel amp so I thought you got a new one.
That amp is a mono amp. There are 2 speaker terminals on it for cosmetic reasons (so you don't have to splice two wires together) the terminals are connected inside and both run off the same output.
So all you have to do is wire the + and - from one of the terminals on the amp to one on the box and from the other on the amp to the other on the box + to + and - to -.
Your amp puts out 4 ohms if its hooked up to one 4 ohm sub 2 ohms if its hooked up to 2 4 ohm subs and 1 ohm if its hooked up to 4 4 ohm subs.
Since you have those awsome G5's they allow you to change the output on them so you don't have to worry about wierd wiring.
So if you have 1 2ohm sub the amp would put out 2ohms, 2 2ohm subs the amp puts out 1 ohm and 4 2 ohm subs I think it takes you to 0.5 ohms or it could be 0.25 ohms I can't recall off the top of my head. (its not to often you hook up 4 2ohm subs to 1 amp, not since the days of the orion reds have I even seen it done) anyway your amp is only 1 ohm stable so it don't matter
BTW- BY sealed chambers I meant is there a piece of wood that divides the two subs inside the box. Since yours only has 1 port then it probably does not but its much easier to do from the outside
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From: san antonio, tx
drill a small hole from one chamber to the other and run wire through, seal with silicone. not HARD to do at all. i guess thats why i used to get paid $20+ an hour to do it for others.
How is that easier than just wiring to each terminal on the outside of the box?
Holy Placebo Batman!
Piggy back from one speaker to the next or wire it to the terminal on the outside of the box, it aint going to make it pound harder, 1 ohm is 1 ohm, no matter how you serve it up.
They paid you $20/hour to do work that wasn't really needed...let me guess you worked at Best Buy.
Holy Placebo Batman!
Piggy back from one speaker to the next or wire it to the terminal on the outside of the box, it aint going to make it pound harder, 1 ohm is 1 ohm, no matter how you serve it up.
They paid you $20/hour to do work that wasn't really needed...let me guess you worked at Best Buy.
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Joined: 06-08-07
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From: san antonio, tx
i started at circuit, then best buy, and wound up working for a the regions largest custom shop for almost 2 years before going to a better more "professional" job. had almost 10 years in the industry before moving on to city hall and finishing my education.
why would i want to run it on the outside? it is a liability to have it on the external terminals since it can be easily taken apart or come lose from loose items in the trunk not to mention cheap looking.
furthermore, you said it was HARD to do. it is actually very simple. do it right the first time and not worry about any other issues in the long run.
why would i want to run it on the outside? it is a liability to have it on the external terminals since it can be easily taken apart or come lose from loose items in the trunk not to mention cheap looking.
furthermore, you said it was HARD to do. it is actually very simple. do it right the first time and not worry about any other issues in the long run.
Last edited by quest51210; Jan 11, 2009 at 06:28 AM.
First of all, he really didn't have a choice as to piggy back the speakers together, seeing as his box only had one input terminal on it.
However since both his subs share a single slot port up the middle of the box, I failed to see the importance of drilling holes where they were not needed, since both chambers should be connected due to the fact that they share a port. So if he did drill a hole on you say so I really want to where it went cuz it was not needed.
Next, did you explain to him that if he is is going to use any silicone or adhesive inside the box that he had to let it dry for 24-36 hours (bare min.) before he put his subs back in, due to the fact that the fumes from some silicones/adhesives will break down the glue that holds the speaker together causing it to fall apart...If you did I missed it.
Boxes were made the way they were made for a reason, and drilling holes inside them on serves to compromise the integrity of the box, silicone is no replacement for wood, once that hole is there is there for good.
When I said it was hard it was in relation to just wiring to the terminal, lets see, drill a, run the wire, fill it silicone, wait a day, then put your subs back in, or wire it strait to the terminal, IDK since the hole wasn't needed and there was only one terminal on the box. I'm sorry I didn't look closer at the box you were running brickloaf, I was un aware it only had 1 terminal on the box.
Listen most people who come here for help need instructions, not to have the situation further complicated, like I read about you telling people to use the relay for the video bypass, instead of a switch. Had it occured to that most people don't know sh*t about a relay and that pin 86, and 87, might as well be the scores from last nights Lakers game cuz they don't know what your talking about. Just cuz you worked at Best Buy, or where ever, you want to come iin here and show how smart you are, but all your doing is taking an easy fix and making it complicated. There is a saying around here and if you worked in car audio then you should know it "K.I.S.S." (Keep It Simple Stupid)
Try t keep it in mind
Brickloaf- I'm glad you got it figured out and I hope it sounds good
However since both his subs share a single slot port up the middle of the box, I failed to see the importance of drilling holes where they were not needed, since both chambers should be connected due to the fact that they share a port. So if he did drill a hole on you say so I really want to where it went cuz it was not needed.
Next, did you explain to him that if he is is going to use any silicone or adhesive inside the box that he had to let it dry for 24-36 hours (bare min.) before he put his subs back in, due to the fact that the fumes from some silicones/adhesives will break down the glue that holds the speaker together causing it to fall apart...If you did I missed it.
Boxes were made the way they were made for a reason, and drilling holes inside them on serves to compromise the integrity of the box, silicone is no replacement for wood, once that hole is there is there for good.
When I said it was hard it was in relation to just wiring to the terminal, lets see, drill a, run the wire, fill it silicone, wait a day, then put your subs back in, or wire it strait to the terminal, IDK since the hole wasn't needed and there was only one terminal on the box. I'm sorry I didn't look closer at the box you were running brickloaf, I was un aware it only had 1 terminal on the box.
Listen most people who come here for help need instructions, not to have the situation further complicated, like I read about you telling people to use the relay for the video bypass, instead of a switch. Had it occured to that most people don't know sh*t about a relay and that pin 86, and 87, might as well be the scores from last nights Lakers game cuz they don't know what your talking about. Just cuz you worked at Best Buy, or where ever, you want to come iin here and show how smart you are, but all your doing is taking an easy fix and making it complicated. There is a saying around here and if you worked in car audio then you should know it "K.I.S.S." (Keep It Simple Stupid)
Try t keep it in mind
Brickloaf- I'm glad you got it figured out and I hope it sounds good
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: 08-29-08
Posts: 1,792
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From: STL
my box has 2 different terminals for each sub but what I did was ran the wires from the amp to the box normally, but I took a extra speaker wire and I just connected + to + and - to - with the extra wires, and ran the wires from the box to there normal + and - terminals, im gunna try to draw a picture in a sec and post it.
seems like the easiest way, but im open to ideas if theres something simpler than this
and btw there is a way to route the wires inside my box since its ported.
seems like the easiest way, but im open to ideas if theres something simpler than this
and btw there is a way to route the wires inside my box since its ported.
Last edited by brickloaf; Jan 11, 2009 at 02:36 PM.
Uhh yeah.
Just get rid of the wires that connect the 2 subs
Make sure you have the fuses in the subs set to 2ohms
If you get rid of the + and the - that are joining the 2 subs then you'll have 2 2ohm subs running off a mono amp which will produce a 1 ohm load.
You kinda tried to do a series/ parrallel combination...I give it an A for creativity. But I can't imagine thats good for the amp or subs. IDK I have never seen anyone try it before.
Yeah i don't suggest keeping the wires that are connecting the subs inside the box, disconnect them and you got a 1 ohm load and your good to go
Happy boomimg
Just get rid of the wires that connect the 2 subs
Make sure you have the fuses in the subs set to 2ohms
If you get rid of the + and the - that are joining the 2 subs then you'll have 2 2ohm subs running off a mono amp which will produce a 1 ohm load.
You kinda tried to do a series/ parrallel combination...I give it an A for creativity. But I can't imagine thats good for the amp or subs. IDK I have never seen anyone try it before.
Yeah i don't suggest keeping the wires that are connecting the subs inside the box, disconnect them and you got a 1 ohm load and your good to go
Happy boomimg
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Joined: 06-08-07
Posts: 282
Likes: 0
From: san antonio, tx
its ok, you will continue to get schooled. did you mention that a dime sized of silicone will not cause any damage especially in a ported box. nice try, but your attempt at being trivial is not going to work.
how does a ported box have sealed chambers? looks to me like you dont know what you are talking about and to ridicule every member on here instead of teaching them what a relay does is stupidity.
i guess you keepin it stupid is indicative of the character you exhibit of yourself and your fellow cobalt owners.
I was in car audio a long time and made plenty of money off of it. I also had the character to inform my customers it sometimes cost a little more to do it right, but the results were a lot better and worry free. The lesson in car audio like anything else is "do it right the first time".
If you are so professional why doesn't this board have basic knowledge of relays? Why didnt you teach them that? Thats right, you think they are too stupid!
how does a ported box have sealed chambers? looks to me like you dont know what you are talking about and to ridicule every member on here instead of teaching them what a relay does is stupidity.
i guess you keepin it stupid is indicative of the character you exhibit of yourself and your fellow cobalt owners.
I was in car audio a long time and made plenty of money off of it. I also had the character to inform my customers it sometimes cost a little more to do it right, but the results were a lot better and worry free. The lesson in car audio like anything else is "do it right the first time".
If you are so professional why doesn't this board have basic knowledge of relays? Why didnt you teach them that? Thats right, you think they are too stupid!
First of all, he really didn't have a choice as to piggy back the speakers together, seeing as his box only had one input terminal on it.
However since both his subs share a single slot port up the middle of the box, I failed to see the importance of drilling holes where they were not needed, since both chambers should be connected due to the fact that they share a port. So if he did drill a hole on you say so I really want to where it went cuz it was not needed.
Next, did you explain to him that if he is is going to use any silicone or adhesive inside the box that he had to let it dry for 24-36 hours (bare min.) before he put his subs back in, due to the fact that the fumes from some silicones/adhesives will break down the glue that holds the speaker together causing it to fall apart...If you did I missed it.
Boxes were made the way they were made for a reason, and drilling holes inside them on serves to compromise the integrity of the box, silicone is no replacement for wood, once that hole is there is there for good.
When I said it was hard it was in relation to just wiring to the terminal, lets see, drill a, run the wire, fill it silicone, wait a day, then put your subs back in, or wire it strait to the terminal, IDK since the hole wasn't needed and there was only one terminal on the box. I'm sorry I didn't look closer at the box you were running brickloaf, I was un aware it only had 1 terminal on the box.
Listen most people who come here for help need instructions, not to have the situation further complicated, like I read about you telling people to use the relay for the video bypass, instead of a switch. Had it occured to that most people don't know sh*t about a relay and that pin 86, and 87, might as well be the scores from last nights Lakers game cuz they don't know what your talking about. Just cuz you worked at Best Buy, or where ever, you want to come iin here and show how smart you are, but all your doing is taking an easy fix and making it complicated. There is a saying around here and if you worked in car audio then you should know it "K.I.S.S." (Keep It Simple Stupid)
Try t keep it in mind
Brickloaf- I'm glad you got it figured out and I hope it sounds good
However since both his subs share a single slot port up the middle of the box, I failed to see the importance of drilling holes where they were not needed, since both chambers should be connected due to the fact that they share a port. So if he did drill a hole on you say so I really want to where it went cuz it was not needed.
Next, did you explain to him that if he is is going to use any silicone or adhesive inside the box that he had to let it dry for 24-36 hours (bare min.) before he put his subs back in, due to the fact that the fumes from some silicones/adhesives will break down the glue that holds the speaker together causing it to fall apart...If you did I missed it.
Boxes were made the way they were made for a reason, and drilling holes inside them on serves to compromise the integrity of the box, silicone is no replacement for wood, once that hole is there is there for good.
When I said it was hard it was in relation to just wiring to the terminal, lets see, drill a, run the wire, fill it silicone, wait a day, then put your subs back in, or wire it strait to the terminal, IDK since the hole wasn't needed and there was only one terminal on the box. I'm sorry I didn't look closer at the box you were running brickloaf, I was un aware it only had 1 terminal on the box.
Listen most people who come here for help need instructions, not to have the situation further complicated, like I read about you telling people to use the relay for the video bypass, instead of a switch. Had it occured to that most people don't know sh*t about a relay and that pin 86, and 87, might as well be the scores from last nights Lakers game cuz they don't know what your talking about. Just cuz you worked at Best Buy, or where ever, you want to come iin here and show how smart you are, but all your doing is taking an easy fix and making it complicated. There is a saying around here and if you worked in car audio then you should know it "K.I.S.S." (Keep It Simple Stupid)
Try t keep it in mind
Brickloaf- I'm glad you got it figured out and I hope it sounds good
Buddy you need to watch what you say very carefully.
First off by sealed chambers I meant sealed off fron each other, if you read back iI said is there a piece of wood inside the box that seperated the two subs.
Are you that desperate for a reply that you would have me believe that the idea of a box with 2 separate chambers ported or not is unheard of? Come on. Who you fooling?
If you want to go on about how much easier it is to drill a hole through the middle of the box and silicone some wire in rather than just wiring to the terminals on the outside iof the box, well you go right ahead. I dont know if your just stuborn, or ignorant, I don't really care. I do kinow that "doing it right the first time" in my eyes is getting a box built to spec, not cutting up a pre-fab box but hey to each there own.
What i said about the relays wasn't really directed at the rest of the forum, I was speaking for myself, since I don't really have much experiance with them.
Why you ask, cuz i don't do this for a living, I have not been to 1 day of school for all this, I own a couple Tim Hortons (coffee/donut shops in Canada) this is just a hobby to me. So i guess i was calling myself stupid huh? I tell you what I don't do. I don't try and teach people about something I am not all that knowledgeable about...I'll leave that to you.
Now are you going to keep making an ass of yourself all week or have you got something useful to say, something on topic maybe?
Brickloaf- There the ones with the fuses in the right? I'm looking at the owners manual for them right now. The ohm output on them depends on how you set the fuses that go in by the posts on the speakers. there kinda like jumpers on a Hard drive. The fuses allow you to configure the ohm output on the sub.
heres the manual, go to the second page and read the "Sure Set fuse Configurations" section
http://mobile.bostonacoustics.com/ma...G5_GTR_Man.pdf
First off by sealed chambers I meant sealed off fron each other, if you read back iI said is there a piece of wood inside the box that seperated the two subs.
Are you that desperate for a reply that you would have me believe that the idea of a box with 2 separate chambers ported or not is unheard of? Come on. Who you fooling?
If you want to go on about how much easier it is to drill a hole through the middle of the box and silicone some wire in rather than just wiring to the terminals on the outside iof the box, well you go right ahead. I dont know if your just stuborn, or ignorant, I don't really care. I do kinow that "doing it right the first time" in my eyes is getting a box built to spec, not cutting up a pre-fab box but hey to each there own.
What i said about the relays wasn't really directed at the rest of the forum, I was speaking for myself, since I don't really have much experiance with them.
Why you ask, cuz i don't do this for a living, I have not been to 1 day of school for all this, I own a couple Tim Hortons (coffee/donut shops in Canada) this is just a hobby to me. So i guess i was calling myself stupid huh? I tell you what I don't do. I don't try and teach people about something I am not all that knowledgeable about...I'll leave that to you.
Now are you going to keep making an ass of yourself all week or have you got something useful to say, something on topic maybe?
Brickloaf- There the ones with the fuses in the right? I'm looking at the owners manual for them right now. The ohm output on them depends on how you set the fuses that go in by the posts on the speakers. there kinda like jumpers on a Hard drive. The fuses allow you to configure the ohm output on the sub.
heres the manual, go to the second page and read the "Sure Set fuse Configurations" section
http://mobile.bostonacoustics.com/ma...G5_GTR_Man.pdf
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: 08-29-08
Posts: 1,792
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From: STL
i ended up just taking out that middle wire like you said, but when i opened up my box i realized that my box had TINY speaker wire that went in to the sub (came with box) I changed it out with some of the big ass wire that came with my amp kit and it bumps ALOT harder now.
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