Correct....thats why in instantly said the 2202 kit...i lose all the chimes but o well...the things where annoying

 

thats the one i used and right now i am co confused on whats the proble. me and my dad have tried EVERYTHING

 

Cause there SHOULDNT be a factory on the base 2.2 models....If you got a volt meter put it in AC and test the speaker leads to see if anything is coming out...should jump around a bit and follow a beat of some sort...If you got a speaker around...Cut one of the connections off and test it a the base the unit to see.....If neg on both...bad unit....if good on those...Um not totally sure...Look up the factory colors on from the factory unit clip and see if they match the pin placement of those...

 

Ok this is what I would do.
1 disconnect both battery terminals (first disconnect the negative side them positive)
2 if you can solder all your connections and electrical tape them please do
3 try and put your e-brake back to the way it was (I'll tell you how to bypass your unit)
4 pull out the wire harnesses and only hook up the speaker, constant, ground, and switched wires
5 if you have an amp or a power antenna then hook them up to the blue/white wire, yes only that wire.
6 now to bypass it you don’t need to put in a relay but a toggle switch to act like an ebrake and ground out the wire this should work
7 when you ground out the unit go straight to the body of the car that will be a better ground
8 for the dash lights check all your fuses and also please see step 4


Wires that you hook up:

White-white/black FRONT RIGHT
Gray-gray/black FRONT LEFT
Green-green/black REAR LEFT
Purple -purple/black REAR RIGHT
Yellow- CONSTANT +12V
Red- SWITCHED +12V
Black and light green- GROUND OUT TO CHASSY
Blue/white-IF YOU HAVE AN AMP/POWER ANTENNA


Wires that you don’t hook up:

Yellow/black- fold and tape
Orange/white- fold and tape

Put it all back together neatly it makes things easier.
After you have done all this go back to your battery reconnect it.

Time to test things out...

 

Agreed^^ (fzn14)

When I said mute I didn't mean the wire, some of the people on the Avic forums claimed that the unit wen't into mute mode and they had to go into the main menu and refresh it in order to turn it off.

Listen the best advice I can give you is to start over. Taking it apart and slowly doing it over again is sometimes an easier solution than trying to trouble shoot at random, this time use solder and heatshrink.

You could also disconnect a speaker connection from behind the deck, and wire in another one directly to the leads (wires) that come off the back of the Pioneer, this way you can tell if its a problem in the unit or in the wires that lead to the speaker,
This is pretty much the same thing as mentioned in the above post.

To be honest it starting to look like you got a bad HU, if you could post some pictures of how you have it wired in it would help a bit

 

here is how the relay needs to be wired for video. i recently did one for a friend that has a hotrod project and he had no clue on video or audio install.

When using a regular 12V 30 Amp 5 Pin Relay.
Pin 87: ground
pin 85: ground
pin 86: amp turn on (from your deck)
pin 30: e-brake wire (from your deck)
pin 87a: not used

you do NOT have to tap the ebrake in your car at all!

you can leave the illumination and mute wires unconnected, but make sure you terminate those wires correctly. do not and i repeat do not use the momentary switch, its a cheap and shitty way to bypass. not too mention the switch becomes a problem.

 

allright im about to go out there and pull all 3 harnesses out and take a picture for you and mabe it will clear things up

 

Ummm i dont have a clue on WHY it would do this BUT for S/G's hook up the Blue/white with the blue on the harness with the blue on the other 2202....UM if there is no sound completely could be a factory amp...For the life of me i no clue why there would be one in that model but 90% of the time when i install radios and there is no sound i kinda look to that conclusion 1st...being a factory amp some where

 

but see i dont have a factory amp, i just have the regular 4 speaker system, not hte upgraded pioneer from factoy

 

But what i am sayin its not like one or two arent working....Just that the WHOLE system isnt working...You never know...I would tryin that before extensive about anything....

 

yah i agree. well im gonna first hook up a speaker straight up to the pioneer and see if it works, then ill try what u said

 

Let us know how that goes as well as take pics if you can...And as far and the ebrake is concerned disconnect that **** and just ground it so your passengers can watch tv while you drive cause if dont your ebrake has to be up......LAME

 

yah man will do, im gonna go eat me sum breakfast and then ill go take pictures of how i got it hooked up and then ill takr it out and take pictures

QUESTION: does the 2022 harness its self get grounded and powered? if so what wires

 

You might have to use a fuse tap for the power, but on the metra harness it should be red.
However its not always as it should be (red) but it should be written on the wire itself, so look for the wire that says "12V ACC (or) IGNITION". There should be a wire code legend on the outside of the package it came in.

As for ground, it should be black, but again just read the labels on the side of the wires or refer to the writing on the package

 

when you plug in the 2202 you should have a ground and power wires yes. the ground form the 2202 you wont need just ground out to the chassy. you will hook up the power wires to the radio. on the harness you wont need to hook up orange orange/white and blue/white.


before you go wire the speakers strait to the p4000 try and do a speaker pop test just to see if they are actually working. if you dont know how to "pop" a speaker tell me

as far as the bypass a relay will be easy and you wont have to worry about flipping a switch every time. a switch is nice of you ever get pulled over.

 

pics are coming hold on

 

for what reason thats just ******* dumb

edit* o so you cant watch video without it in park........just ground that ****

 

The harness has everything you need to do the job but a few extras for illu. or mute

 

THIS IS HOW I REWIRED IT TODAY PLEASE TELL ME IF THIS IS CORRECT



THESE ARE THE WIRES IM GROUNDING OFF THE PIONEER

 

^^ that looks right where are you tapping power(s) from now?


did you remember to disconnect your battery and let it sit there for a bit to reset your electrical systom?

 

FROM THE SUNROOF FUSE AND THE #17 FUSE WHICH IS EMPTY AND IM GROUNDING FROM THE 3 SCREWS IN THE BACK

WANT MORE PICTURES? OF HOW I GOT IT WIRED IN THE CAR?

 

that should be fine just make sure both the swtiched and constant are fused.

the other pictures arnt needed but if you want to cool.

 

Does the harness you're using not supply a yellow battery wire? Why do you have the yellow wire off the pioneer harness wired to a red wire?

 

i was thinking the same thing. the switched will have to be from a fuse or another wire in the car. the constant (yellow) can be wired up to the 2202.

 

Agreed
Also I just used my stock ground, or in other words I just grounded the HU to the ground in the new harness, I havent had any problems.
Also, those blue twist caps your using, gotta go, They are mainly for solid wire, not stranded wire. You would be better off just twisting them together and using some electrical tape. Solder and heatshrink would be the best thing but twist and tape will get the job done.

How were you going to do the bypass.
I though on Pioneers you cant just ground the green wire out, you have to use a relay or a switch, or even a pulse relay