HELP - Kenwood HU w/ PAC SWI-JACK install
08-13-2010, 11:20 AM
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HELP - Kenwood HU w/ PAC SWI-JACK install
I got an 07 LT that I'm installing my Kenwood KVT-715 headunit into. I've got the PAC SWI-JACK adapter to keep the steering wheel controls but I can't get the damn thing to work. I am a little confused on how to wire it up. Which wire in the stock harness do I connect the green wire from the PAC adapter to? Also, do I have to jump the white/black wire in the stock harness to anything like the PAC directions say? Also, what about the blue/yellow wire from the PAC? I've got the radio working fine and wired correctly, just the PAC adapter isn't working. Also, does the PAC remember programming? Meaning if I disconnect the battery cuz I'm doing some other work, will the PAC need to be reprogrammed or does is somehow remember the codes? My car is torn apart and I need it back together ASAP, so help will be greatly appreciated.
wow, 4 hours later and no one has any kind of help??
wow, 4 hours later and no one has any kind of help??
Last edited by CincyZetec; 08-13-2010 at 11:20 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
08-13-2010, 11:49 AM
#2
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So first you need to disregard any instruction that came with the unit and go to the PAC website and get the instruction off there.
So on the stock harness there are two wires you need to hook up.
1) the +10 ref voltage, this feeds the resistor network. We have to use the stock battery voltage because we don't have a good +10v reference signal anymore since that was generated by the stock head unit. This is the biggest flaw of the PAC unit in my opinion it should generate a +10 reference voltage. But it doesn't
A10
WH/BK
644
10-Volt Reference (US8)
2) the sensor signal. This is the voltage that is returned at a reduced level depending on the button that was pushed, this connects to your after market control unit.
B3
L-GN
1011
Remote Radio Control Signal (US8)
The instructions that come with the unit don't really over 1) at all and if that isn't hooked up it wont work.
So on the stock harness there are two wires you need to hook up.
1) the +10 ref voltage, this feeds the resistor network. We have to use the stock battery voltage because we don't have a good +10v reference signal anymore since that was generated by the stock head unit. This is the biggest flaw of the PAC unit in my opinion it should generate a +10 reference voltage. But it doesn't
A10
WH/BK
644
10-Volt Reference (US8)
2) the sensor signal. This is the voltage that is returned at a reduced level depending on the button that was pushed, this connects to your after market control unit.
B3
L-GN
1011
Remote Radio Control Signal (US8)
The instructions that come with the unit don't really over 1) at all and if that isn't hooked up it wont work.
08-13-2010, 11:56 AM
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do i just cut the white/black wire from the stock connector and reconnect it to a 12v source? do i use a switched source of constant power source for that? can i connect that in with the 12v switched source i need to have to power the head unit?
do i need to hook up the blue/yellow wire from the pac box? i did some looking on here and saw that it was said that wire needs to be hooked up to the blue/orange or blue/yellow from the head unit. i looked and my unit doesn't have either wire.
do i need to hook up the blue/yellow wire from the pac box? i did some looking on here and saw that it was said that wire needs to be hooked up to the blue/orange or blue/yellow from the head unit. i looked and my unit doesn't have either wire.
08-13-2010, 12:00 PM
#4
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do i just cut the white/black wire from the stock connector and reconnect it to a 12v source? do i use a switched source of constant power source for that? can i connect that in with the 12v switched source i need to have to power the head unit?
do i need to hook up the blue/yellow wire from the pac box? i did some looking on here and saw that it was said that wire needs to be hooked up to the blue/orange or blue/yellow from the head unit. i looked and my unit doesn't have either wire.
do i need to hook up the blue/yellow wire from the pac box? i did some looking on here and saw that it was said that wire needs to be hooked up to the blue/orange or blue/yellow from the head unit. i looked and my unit doesn't have either wire.
This instructions seem right to me based on how it should work.
.http://pac-audio.com/swixprogramming...ehicles&ID=138
08-13-2010, 12:04 PM
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thanks, but still i'm a little confused on the 10v wire, do i cut it off the factory harness and connect the wire to 12v? can it be switched or constant? and what about the blue/yellow wire?
08-14-2010, 03:00 AM
#6
switched. this basiclly turns on the sensing or some ****. i tired it directly into the acc that i used for the radio (makes sense that i would want the radio and pac sensor to turn on and off together and what better way then using the same place?)
04-01-2017, 02:46 AM
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Still don't understand....
So first you need to disregard any instruction that came with the unit and go to the PAC website and get the instruction off there.
So on the stock harness there are two wires you need to hook up.
1) the +10 ref voltage, this feeds the resistor network. We have to use the stock battery voltage because we don't have a good +10v reference signal anymore since that was generated by the stock head unit. This is the biggest flaw of the PAC unit in my opinion it should generate a +10 reference voltage. But it doesn't
A10
WH/BK
644
10-Volt Reference (US8)
2) the sensor signal. This is the voltage that is returned at a reduced level depending on the button that was pushed, this connects to your after market control unit.
B3
L-GN
1011
Remote Radio Control Signal (US8)
The instructions that come with the unit don't really over 1) at all and if that isn't hooked up it wont work.
So on the stock harness there are two wires you need to hook up.
1) the +10 ref voltage, this feeds the resistor network. We have to use the stock battery voltage because we don't have a good +10v reference signal anymore since that was generated by the stock head unit. This is the biggest flaw of the PAC unit in my opinion it should generate a +10 reference voltage. But it doesn't
A10
WH/BK
644
10-Volt Reference (US8)
2) the sensor signal. This is the voltage that is returned at a reduced level depending on the button that was pushed, this connects to your after market control unit.
B3
L-GN
1011
Remote Radio Control Signal (US8)
The instructions that come with the unit don't really over 1) at all and if that isn't hooked up it wont work.
I have a Kenwood HD single din head. Got the GM3000 harness and a scosche adapter for the factory chimes. All goes together. Don't remember how, but figured out how to make the pioneer sound system work with all of it hooked up. Killed my battery completely trying to install the stupid pac swi-jack. I'm not understanding where the damn green wire would go at all. I need dummy advice. I'm learning. Help please! Steering wheel controls would be a definite plus....
04-01-2017, 04:08 AM
#8
did you follow the instructions? the ones included are too vast to be much help. You can get the info you need but really you want to know vehicle specific not every vehicle ever. The first link is where you go to get the vehilce specific guide and the 2nd link is what should be already filled out for your vehicle
iPod Integration for your car and More by Pac-Audio - Connecting you to the future
iPod Integration for your car and More by Pac-Audio - Connecting you to the future
Looks like it goes to A9 (dark blue) on one of the plugs that goes into the radio.
iPod Integration for your car and More by Pac-Audio - Connecting you to the future
iPod Integration for your car and More by Pac-Audio - Connecting you to the future
Looks like it goes to A9 (dark blue) on one of the plugs that goes into the radio.
04-01-2017, 06:55 AM
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Yes. I tried to follow all instructions I found on pac and Google
Totally followed the instructions on the pac website specific to my Coby (yes I've named her). I've tried the blue wire...... I've tried just about everything I've run across that made remotely any sense to me at all on Google..... I've dumbed down my search keywords a million times.... I like to think of myself as a great researcher. I teach myself a lot of things, and get this, my dad was an electrician for over 20 years. Can't get him available..... Can't keep killing my battery. I've seen a couple people with an 05ls that have gotten this specific pac to work as well, but their instructions didn't make sense with the scosche adapter harness colors. I have no idea what moving pins on a harness means or anything lol. I just want to know if there's a specific dumbed down guide someone can give me to ease my frustrations, because even Einstein was the first to admit he wasn't the brightest crayon in the color box. Lol Ermagerd, don't judge me! I'm at least a girl who isn't scared to tear apart an engine and put it back together, and stereo systems are usually cake to me, but this car..... She's taught me a LOT of new things in the 3 months I've had her.
04-02-2017, 01:57 AM
#10
what are you talking about? either its late (it is) or whatever you said made no sense (maybe maybe not)
This specific SWI is super easy. you attach the green wire to the dark blue wire. Red to ACC and black to ground. move the rotory switch to #3 then program for version 1
Step 8 for programming is the only part thats a pain because you have to be patient and it has to be done in order 100% correctly. any mistakes and you start over. just program the first one and see if it works.
This specific SWI is super easy. you attach the green wire to the dark blue wire. Red to ACC and black to ground. move the rotory switch to #3 then program for version 1
Step 8 for programming is the only part thats a pain because you have to be patient and it has to be done in order 100% correctly. any mistakes and you start over. just program the first one and see if it works.
04-02-2017, 12:32 PM
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Pac Swi-Jack "For Dummies" install on 05 Chevy Cobalt Ls
Don't be a dick. It was probably just too late to understand a females rambles. After all I researched, where people (yes, not just me) are getting confused, is what you're supposed to do with the ACC (WHT/BLK) wire. At the very least, I knew the instructions were referencing the WHT/BLK as in, mostly white with blk stripe because of the way it's written. That may sound dumb to you, but realize, not everyone who works on cars, or any semi complicated project for that matter, is going to completely understand all the abbreviations you throw at them just because you know what they mean. Anyway. For anyone with an 05 Cobalt, here are some "for dummies" instructions.
1)Pac's website is the go-to for vehicle specific instructions, don't just google them and start tearing apart your stock wire harness.
-2005 Cobalt Ls-tap the green wire running from the pac swi-Jack into the (A9) dark blue wire (yes, on the stock harness-wires disappearing into the abyss of the dash board attached to the original plug your stock stereo was attached to).
-Note: there are 2 dark blue wires on this harness-the letter indication labels on the actual pin plug of the stock harness are along the back edge, where the stock wires are coming out of the plug and headed into the dash. Way easier to see with a flashlight, if, like myself, you have a coup with a sun roof, only the two lousy little lights on the rear view mirror and this project pissed you off so bad that when you finally figured it out, it was 9:45 pm.......lol moving along....
2)Here's where I kept getting confused....(A10) WHT/BLK wire on stock harness needs split to attach the 12v switched source. You do not need to complicate this step hard tapping into the fuse box under the panel on the passenger side of the front dash. I personally enjoy being able to use the sun roof when fully functional, and I'm almost positive my service pitbull does as well.
-The 12v switched source, also, does not need to be some random yellow or green power wire you happen upon under your dash somewhere, which if tapped could possibly ultimately render one of the ECU's normal electrical functions useless. I like things in my vehicles to work as simply as they were designed to.
-What I gathered from EmperorJJ in previous comments, after reading and rereading a million different times, was to take all three red wires from the entire mess of wire harnesses in your lap right now (1 from the new harness adaptor you're splicing to your afterstock head unit, 1 from the factory harness that came with your head unit and the red wire coming from the pac swi-jack) and tap ALL OF THEM into the WHT/BLK (ACC) wire on the factory GM harness-huge pain in the ass because they're not all super long. I used smooth metal blunt-tipped pliers to gently twist my wires together and electrical tape to secure the bond after I tested her out. While programming, if the red led doesn't come back on after trying to teach the pac a certain command, it's because you aren't tapped into that ACC wire correctly.
3)Now attach your ground wire and depending on your head unit, either the auxiliary Jack attached to the pac swi-Jack or the blue and yellow communication wires, and your antenna adapter, and test her out.
-Fun fact. I have an afterstock Kenwood KDC-HD262u head unit installed. After much of my frustration was utilized learning about electrical power steering, which I had no idea was a thing, I somehow missed buying an antenna adapter for my setup. Not sure about anyone else's head units, but mine was easy to Jerry-rig the antenna into. Stuck it into the antenna input on the head and taped it down lol works fine for now.
4)Then of course comes the programming. Once the pac swi-Jack is attached to the system correctly, it will start accepting commands you try to program instead of timing out. But yes, make sure you read your vehicle specific instructions from the pac website for program number and initial set up once installed properly. I'm completely done with wiring and zip tying everything together nicely, dash is back together again, even took time to tighten/repair some loose dash clips along the way. I left some slack on the wires to my pac swi-Jack so I could mount it around back of my head unit, on the panel attached to the console just under my steering wheel. I'll come back and post pictures later. There's definitely not a whole lot of those out there either (probably due to frustration) but I'm a nice enough person I suppose lol.
Sorry for rambling.....BUT. IF you're patient, you too can make miracles happen in your own driveway. Not spell checking. Did this from my cell phone.
1)Pac's website is the go-to for vehicle specific instructions, don't just google them and start tearing apart your stock wire harness.
-2005 Cobalt Ls-tap the green wire running from the pac swi-Jack into the (A9) dark blue wire (yes, on the stock harness-wires disappearing into the abyss of the dash board attached to the original plug your stock stereo was attached to).
-Note: there are 2 dark blue wires on this harness-the letter indication labels on the actual pin plug of the stock harness are along the back edge, where the stock wires are coming out of the plug and headed into the dash. Way easier to see with a flashlight, if, like myself, you have a coup with a sun roof, only the two lousy little lights on the rear view mirror and this project pissed you off so bad that when you finally figured it out, it was 9:45 pm.......lol moving along....
2)Here's where I kept getting confused....(A10) WHT/BLK wire on stock harness needs split to attach the 12v switched source. You do not need to complicate this step hard tapping into the fuse box under the panel on the passenger side of the front dash. I personally enjoy being able to use the sun roof when fully functional, and I'm almost positive my service pitbull does as well.
-The 12v switched source, also, does not need to be some random yellow or green power wire you happen upon under your dash somewhere, which if tapped could possibly ultimately render one of the ECU's normal electrical functions useless. I like things in my vehicles to work as simply as they were designed to.
-What I gathered from EmperorJJ in previous comments, after reading and rereading a million different times, was to take all three red wires from the entire mess of wire harnesses in your lap right now (1 from the new harness adaptor you're splicing to your afterstock head unit, 1 from the factory harness that came with your head unit and the red wire coming from the pac swi-jack) and tap ALL OF THEM into the WHT/BLK (ACC) wire on the factory GM harness-huge pain in the ass because they're not all super long. I used smooth metal blunt-tipped pliers to gently twist my wires together and electrical tape to secure the bond after I tested her out. While programming, if the red led doesn't come back on after trying to teach the pac a certain command, it's because you aren't tapped into that ACC wire correctly.
3)Now attach your ground wire and depending on your head unit, either the auxiliary Jack attached to the pac swi-Jack or the blue and yellow communication wires, and your antenna adapter, and test her out.
-Fun fact. I have an afterstock Kenwood KDC-HD262u head unit installed. After much of my frustration was utilized learning about electrical power steering, which I had no idea was a thing, I somehow missed buying an antenna adapter for my setup. Not sure about anyone else's head units, but mine was easy to Jerry-rig the antenna into. Stuck it into the antenna input on the head and taped it down lol works fine for now.
4)Then of course comes the programming. Once the pac swi-Jack is attached to the system correctly, it will start accepting commands you try to program instead of timing out. But yes, make sure you read your vehicle specific instructions from the pac website for program number and initial set up once installed properly. I'm completely done with wiring and zip tying everything together nicely, dash is back together again, even took time to tighten/repair some loose dash clips along the way. I left some slack on the wires to my pac swi-Jack so I could mount it around back of my head unit, on the panel attached to the console just under my steering wheel. I'll come back and post pictures later. There's definitely not a whole lot of those out there either (probably due to frustration) but I'm a nice enough person I suppose lol.
Sorry for rambling.....BUT. IF you're patient, you too can make miracles happen in your own driveway. Not spell checking. Did this from my cell phone.
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