alright so im upgrading my speakers, then onto subwoofers later (within the next two months)

my question is

i have four alpine speakers that are 100 watt rms a piece with a peak of 300

i want to power it with a 150 x 4 amp, actual rms is 169

would i be okay with that or should i stick to a 100 x 4 (that is about 130 actual rms x 4)

? im guessing since its alpine it should be fine right?


also then im going to get a 1000 x 1 amp (actual rms is 1163) for two kicker subs rated at 400 rms a piece, 800 peak a piece so 500-581.5 or so rms total going to each... ive read that subwoofers should be fine with a little bit of over powering... so i should be good with that right?


last question

so 1600 watts or 1400 depending on what im going to use, will a cobalt handle that with no problems?


thanks guys

 

is the highs amp 169 rms @ 4ohm like the speakers?

also with 1k+ power ur gonna want to upgrade the battery to a good agm deep cycle

 

yes both high amps are 4 ohns or 2 ohms 130 (for both 2/4) and 169 (for both 2/4)

 

im assuming a JL or memphis? Just keep the gain down

 

alpine
but for speakers isnt it okay to put it inbetween the rms and peak?

 

no. what model is it? unless the newer digital amps dont care about ohms then there should be a difference from 4 to 2 ohms

 

no its a pdx amp, performs the same at each ohm

and will a hc1800 suffice? with the total watts being (130x4) 520 + (1169 x 1) 1689

or is it not deep cycle? and is it just a simple switch the leads to the new battery n go?

 

Your talking about a Kenetic right? If so that will more than do for what you need.
Yes, but if I were you I would replace the ground wire with something a bit bigger (0,1 guage if you can) and make it as short as possible. Also scrape, sand or buff the paint away from the spot where the ground touches the car.

The RMS wattage is really the max a speaker can take the peak is what it is capable of handling in short bursts, if you run more than the RMS wattage into a speaker, it may not do anything right away but in a short time you will fry the sub/speaker, or the voie coil if you want to get technical. I have even seen to much wattage fry the tinsel leads, and once there gone the sub is never right again, besides there a bitch to replace.

IMO you should not set the gain on the 4 channel amp any higher than 1/2 (aprox 85watts) to 2/3(aprox 110watts) and the sub amp somewhere between 2/3 (aprox 770watts) and 3/4 (aprox 872watts) with a bias towards the lower setting 3/4 might be pushing it

 

ya the pdx are digital amps... are u staying with a stock HU? if so and u use an LOC most are adjustable make sure to turn it most of the way down if not all the way

The 1800 is too tall to fit in the stock location. if u put it there the trunk carpet will be higher in the back then the front.

and also mind you the gain setting relation to wattage completely depends on the power of ur signal (voltage) i would highly recommend against the chingonas 8v eclipse/old fosgate decks in ur case... 4v is probably the highest i would recommend u go

 

no im not using the stock headunit, and with 1400 watts i should be good with 4 gauge wire? even with the extra added on it would only be about 1750 watts max!!! so i should still be good with 4 gauge correct?

also can i run the hc1800 on its side? and do posts come with it? does it come charged?

 

it comes with top post but the make a side post adapter thing. Only concern id have putting it on its side would be how ur going to keep it in place. Also u would probably need to remove stock spare tire

i dont really count the speaker amp because few use the full potential and if u did the speakers would blow.

So would ~1200w be ok on 4g mmm ya as long as its real 4g (quality wire)

 

okay lets say 1600 on it?

 

probably shouldnt although the short distance to the battery makes it better. an actual 1600w rms isnt going to be good for ur battery

 

Just run 2 guage or better (although 0 guage is a little difficult to work with) You can only have 6 feet or so at the max from your battery to where ever your mounting your amps, so its not like you have to get 20 feet of it, get a 0 to 4 guage distribution block and split the power line 18" before the amps. Make sure you use an ANL style fuse, 150 amps should do the trick.

 

i got about a foot of each cable (0 gauge, power/ground) i have a 0-4 distribution block, the 4 gauge will run a little longer than 18 inches, and im sticking with the standard 80 amp fuses that came with the kit, it should be good enough correct? (they will be after the block towards the amp

 

fuse each individual amp 4g to the specs of the amps themselves and fuse the big 1/0 to the size of the wire (200-250a i believe but im really not sure)

 

why do i need to do that? cuz if its fused to each individual, it will easily cut it off from that point if it exceeds it

 

from that point... what happens if somehow the 1/0 gets loose? do you want that thick ass wire attached to a big ol battery going stray in your sheet metal trunk? anyone want to find out what happens when a car battery becomes a welder inside a car? Lets just say the best option would be that wire buring to shreads and smoking out the car

 

^^
Something tells me you would have a hard time getting that smell out

I had said 150amps because the combined amprage (is that even a word) was 140, but he says 200 or better than thats what you need. Like he said the fuse should be 6" away from the battery, no further, theres no cheating on this one, its not rule of thumb its bible, cuz worse case is that stray wire fries every electrical component in your car...ouch

 

will i be okay with 250 then?