The Fot1

Hey guys! So im obviously new to the site but ive had my balt for a while now and am big on modding and customizing my ride Im not a complete novice when it come to electronics but this project has finally confused me enough to warrant signing up and being part of the discussions

So heres the thing: I just got a sweet deal on a CT 3471TW prostart remote starter and have been working through the wiring pretty nicely but hit a few snags.

Firstly, it would appear that the cobalt doesnt have a starter wire. After a bit of research I found that the car just waits for the acc wire to show 0v and the ign to show 12v to start. Anyone know how to wire this up to the starter output of the remote starter correctly?

Secondly I was wondering if someone could give me some info on wiring the starter kill output. As I understand it, it immobilizes the vehicle when the system is armed or it has been remote started and connects to the ignition wire but the manual mentions connecting a spdt relay which I could use help wiring and would love to know why the relay is needed.

Lastly there is an "External trigger input" wire. I am not sure at all what this means and welcome any info on it!

tl;dr: Need help with the starter output of the remote start module, need an explanation of the external trigger input and need help wiring the starter kill output.

Thanks in advance guys!

05 into sound SS

is the car standard or auto

The Fot1

It's an automatic

05 into sound SS

well you can do 1 of 2 things. the starter wire is also the acc. wire. cut that and put in a relay or do a relay on the ignition wire. if your doing it for anti grind the car has a built in one.

eanoller08ls

iTrader: (3)

idk..... > Chevrolet Wiring

c4w18

DO NOT use the starter wire unless you have a manual...you use the starter (if you had a manual) for the clutch bypass (sending 12v+ to the clutch switch to make the car think the clutch is pressed in so it can start). The GM Lan system tells the starter to engage when true (or 1st) ignition has 12 volts+ and accessory power drops out from 12v+ to 0v......to be more in depth: when you have the car in accessory, accessory has 12v+....when you turn it to ignition (all the lights on your cluster light up, fuel pump turns on, etc), your ignition and accessory has 12v+...when you turn the key to start the car, true ignition has 12v+ and accessory goes to 0v and the computer goes yo sup starter, get your lazy bitch ass in gear. The passlock wire has voltage variations in each key position...usually 12 at accessory, anywhere from 4-12 at ignition, and 0 while starting...

There is no starter wire in the cabin of the vehicle....There is one at the starter and there is one that goes to the starter from under the fusebox....Honestly it's not really worth your time to do a starter kill unless you're doing some ghetto key wrap **** to get past the immobilizer, which I strongly recommend you DONT do....Due to the fact that this car has an immobilizer PK3+, it'll be hard enough for them to steal your car, and if they can bypass the PK3+, they'll laugh at your SPDT relay.....anyways, I suggest a bypass from your boys up in Canada: iDatalink - Front Page

The bypass (AL-CA) will give you EVERYTHING...minimizing the wires you have to connect to the vehicle down to about 10 wires.