I've searched a bunch here and found some good info to start with, but I haven't actually found what I'm looking for.

Yes, ctcsoccer7, I now know that there is a whiteish-yellowish wire in each kick panel for RAP. =)

In my 2009 LS XFE (very base model), I haven't found any fuses in the panel that seem to be tied to RAP. Any that are hot while RAP is active (i.e. the radio is still on with the key off), are still hot even after I open and close the door (i.e. the radio is off). Any switched fuses seem to switch off with the key. This includes Wipers (15) and Sunroof (20). The same seems to be true of all the wires in the RAP section of the panel (32).

I'm trying to wire up a Bluetooth receiver (the Expansion Kit is essentially a BT to RCA adapter) for my Aux-In to avoid having to physically plug my MP3 player into the car. I can live with it being on regular ignition-switched power, but it would obviously be much better if it was on the RAP and stayed on with the radio even after turning the key off.

Do you know if the RAP wire comes into the fusebox anywhere that I can get to it? Should there be some fuses on the RAP that I can tap into? I haven't managed to dig into the kicks enough yet to find the RAP wire, and the fusebox would be a much handier location.

 

i used the power window fuse to tap into for my amp powre turn on, its on a time delay with the radio when the key is off.....

 

Power window fuse has it... and I would think that the power window fuse will still function in the same fashion even without power windows being equipped on the vehicle. That is the case with my sunroof fuse.

 

Even with the key on, neither side of the Windows RAP fuse (17) has power. Looks like GM decided to save a few cents by removing something else in the line since I don't have power windows.

Also, I don't see any larger-than-average yellowish wires in either kick panel. I found one twisted pair of yellow and white that might have been a hair bigger than the others, but that's about it.

I haven't looked at any wiring diagrams for it, but could that bigger yellowish wire be for the power window RAP? And therefore missing from my car?

 

Why don't you just use an actual fuse tap rather than just taping the fuse.
This will alow you to tap one of the fuses that you know have RAP on them while still retaining its origanal function.
And what ctcsoccer 7 is talking about is the actual RAP wire, can't you just splice into that to get the desired effect.
If all you need it for is the bluetooth power it can't draw that many amps so it shoud be safe to piggy back on to anything with the RAP.

It doesn't sound right that nothing gets RAP power, do me a favour, go turn your car on then off and before you open the door just try and turn on your wipers,

 

I bought a fuse tap, but the issue is that none of the fuses seem to be tied to RAP. They're all either tied directly to the ignition switch or always hot. I also didn't see any wire that stood out as being larger in the kick panels, so I'm not sure I have the RAP wire there (possibly due to not having power windows).

The AC adapter for the module only puts out 500mA, so I'm not worried about drawing power from an existing circuit, I just can't find one that's on RAP.

The wipers don't work in RAP. If I turn the key off while the wipers are on, they actually stop right where they are - they don't even go back to the rest position.

 

ya it seems to be a pattern if you dotn have power windows/mirrors there isnt rap in sunroof/wiper... acc but not rap

 

Well you know your radio has RAP, question is do you really want to hook it up to that 10amp fuse, I don't suggest it.
Just use one with ACC power and call it a day, you loose the battle but win the war

 

That seems to be the case here. Suck.


The radio fuse isn't on RAP though. It's got constant power and is turned on and off via the LAN data stuff. I had basically decided to just use one of the regular switched fuses for my tap and call it good enough.

But I ran into a number of other problems. The DC power harness they supplied doesn't seem to actually be working. I get ground continuity all the way to the tip, and power all the way to the far end of the inline fuse (I just moved so I don't currently have extra wire to reach inside the tip to test the 12V at the tip). However, the module doesn't actually power on. I was able to power it with the AC adapter from the wall in the garage, and it was insanely loud (to the point of distortion) even with the sensitivity turned all the way down. It worked fine with my Curve on my home system a while back, and my iPhone works ok with my BT headphones, so I'm not sure what the deal is with this and the iPhone together. I guess I'm just sticking to the cable for now. Maybe I'll mess with it more when I get around to putting my Kenwood in.