UPDATED General Stereo FAQ - READ THIS!
what harness you need depends on the year of the car. If all you are doing is trying to add bass you dont "need" to replace the stock radio but you can. Installing without a harness is more difficult (assuming you get it working at all) and there isnt a pro to doing it other than saving some money... you would end up using more install parts though so the cost isnt free vs not
im not sure if metra makes them anymore but when i originally wrote this they did. 07+ should be easier to find by either metra or another manufacture.
Metra = 70-2104 (70-2202 should work as well but the 2104 is the best option)
Metra = 70-2104 (70-2202 should work as well but the 2104 is the best option)
They still make them, I bought a new one last week (finally came in). Still ~$20.
@EmperorJJ1 , I was hoping to grab your attention with the PAC SWI-RC (steering wheel interface). I have the rest of the stuff wired, but this small tidbit is confusing me:
326 - Connect the INTERFACE's Green wire to pin 11(Dk. Blue) in connector 1 of the vehicle connector. DONE
I'm having an issue with this -> Connect pin 14 (White/Black) in connector 2 to +12v accessory. Is that the interface's black/white wire or the stereo adapter that ties into the metra harness?
VCC connector -> https://catalog.pac-audio.com/index....attachment=126 (Solstice)
Application Notes -> https://catalog.pac-audio.com/index....attachment=125 (#326)
@EmperorJJ1 , I was hoping to grab your attention with the PAC SWI-RC (steering wheel interface). I have the rest of the stuff wired, but this small tidbit is confusing me:
326 - Connect the INTERFACE's Green wire to pin 11(Dk. Blue) in connector 1 of the vehicle connector. DONE
I'm having an issue with this -> Connect pin 14 (White/Black) in connector 2 to +12v accessory. Is that the interface's black/white wire or the stereo adapter that ties into the metra harness?
VCC connector -> https://catalog.pac-audio.com/index....attachment=126 (Solstice)
Application Notes -> https://catalog.pac-audio.com/index....attachment=125 (#326)
These cars are already known for electrical problems, dont add to the problem by not using the right harness. Send the few extra dollars and make it right. Especially if you want your steering wheel controls to remain. I searched all my harness on crutchfield, and bought the right harnesses from Amazon. Everything was literally plug and play, no splicing wires.
The answer to this is sometimes they work. I have seen a lot of people have tons of issues using the cheap harnesses. A lot of those same people end up spending so much time and extra money trying to sort out the mess they made, that it would have been worth it right from the start to spend little bit extra and do it right the first time.
These cars are already known for electrical problems, dont add to the problem by not using the right harness. Send the few extra dollars and make it right. Especially if you want your steering wheel controls to remain. I searched all my harness on crutchfield, and bought the right harnesses from Amazon. Everything was literally plug and play, no splicing wires.
These cars are already known for electrical problems, dont add to the problem by not using the right harness. Send the few extra dollars and make it right. Especially if you want your steering wheel controls to remain. I searched all my harness on crutchfield, and bought the right harnesses from Amazon. Everything was literally plug and play, no splicing wires.
The PAC harness I have is only $100. If you're not going to sink that much into the car for the audio experience, I probably wouldn't do it at all. Most decent audio systems, and I mean less than 500W, would run you roughly $250 for the speakers, another $200 for a monoblock, then $200 for a subwoofer that fits that box. Obviously doesn't include a headunit, because that's ultimately a personal choice.
For reference, I spent $1000 on my JL Audio system, monoblock, 4 speakers (kept the pioneer tweeters, they are very good for what they are), and sound deadening material. Only a 400W system, it's loud and thumps good, and was able to use my stock pioneer subwoofer box so I can keep my trunk open for tools and golf clubs.
For reference, I spent $1000 on my JL Audio system, monoblock, 4 speakers (kept the pioneer tweeters, they are very good for what they are), and sound deadening material. Only a 400W system, it's loud and thumps good, and was able to use my stock pioneer subwoofer box so I can keep my trunk open for tools and golf clubs.
The PAC harness I have is only $100. If you're not going to sink that much into the car for the audio experience, I probably wouldn't do it at all. Most decent audio systems, and I mean less than 500W, would run you roughly $250 for the speakers, another $200 for a monoblock, then $200 for a subwoofer that fits that box. Obviously doesn't include a headunit, because that's ultimately a personal choice.
For reference, I spent $1000 on my JL Audio system, monoblock, 4 speakers (kept the pioneer tweeters, they are very good for what they are), and sound deadening material. Only a 400W system, it's loud and thumps good, and was able to use my stock pioneer subwoofer box so I can keep my trunk open for tools and golf clubs.
For reference, I spent $1000 on my JL Audio system, monoblock, 4 speakers (kept the pioneer tweeters, they are very good for what they are), and sound deadening material. Only a 400W system, it's loud and thumps good, and was able to use my stock pioneer subwoofer box so I can keep my trunk open for tools and golf clubs.
If you dont mind did you drop another shallow mount sub into the pioneer box? If so what sub did you use, and Is it much of a hassle to drop one in. I do wonder if the stock sub already in it would be worth using if it was pushed by 200 watts or so. Right now its pretty weak sounding and often doesnt even sound amplified half the time.
If you dont mind did you drop another shallow mount sub into the pioneer box? If so what sub did you use, and Is it much of a hassle to drop one in. I do wonder if the stock sub already in it would be worth using if it was pushed by 200 watts or so. Right now its pretty weak sounding and often doesnt even sound amplified half the time.
If you dont mind did you drop another shallow mount sub into the pioneer box? If so what sub did you use, and Is it much of a hassle to drop one in. I do wonder if the stock sub already in it would be worth using if it was pushed by 200 watts or so. Right now its pretty weak sounding and often doesnt even sound amplified half the time.
so i put an aftermarket on that stock sub for a local guy and he blew it. i wouldn't anticipate it handling much power for very long before destruction. You have to consider that vehicle manufactures basically barely want things to last long enough past the warranty period. stock amp is probably like 40w at best so chevy would have had to buy a sub that can handle 200w to only put 40w on it. that aint happening
Have a JL Audio 400W monoblock to that in the enclosure. Took some light modifying to the plastic case itself, but been running this for a few years now. Of course, I don't turn my audio up to max either, but I do sometimes go 3/4 when I have my windows down, sunroof open and my back seats down for the most air.
Results for: 2009 > Chevrolet > Cobalt > SS > 2-door > Coupe | Vehicle Fit Guide | Metra Online
In total, you need:
- The din (or double din) bracket for the radio
- Metra stock radio harness
- The steering wheel control retainer controller
- Antennae adapter
Wiring instructions are easy to follow, make sure the 12V power wire you tap a fuse for goes into auxiliary (ie: shuts off when car is off). I used the same fuse as my sunroof.
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