Garrett 2.2l Turbo Kit
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
Joined: 01-23-10
Posts: 674
Likes: 0
From: Suffolk, England
Garrett 2.2l Turbo Kit
Had a few questions.
1) I know that the GT2860RS is a T25 flanged turbo, but where the hell can I get a downpipe that will fit the 5 bolt turbine outlet?
2) Does the GT2860RS turbo have an internal wastegate?
3) Why is the Vulcan Tubular Manifold so damn expensive? What's so good about it? Explain?
4)It says they make the manifold in T2, T3, T4 and so on so am I right when i say they make it for T25 as well?
Thanks in advanced.
1) I know that the GT2860RS is a T25 flanged turbo, but where the hell can I get a downpipe that will fit the 5 bolt turbine outlet?
2) Does the GT2860RS turbo have an internal wastegate?
3) Why is the Vulcan Tubular Manifold so damn expensive? What's so good about it? Explain?
4)It says they make the manifold in T2, T3, T4 and so on so am I right when i say they make it for T25 as well?
Thanks in advanced.
Had a few questions.
1) I know that the GT2860RS is a T25 flanged turbo, but where the hell can I get a downpipe that will fit the 5 bolt turbine outlet?
2) Does the GT2860RS turbo have an internal wastegate?
3) Why is the Vulcan Tubular Manifold so damn expensive? What's so good about it? Explain?
4)It says they make the manifold in T2, T3, T4 and so on so am I right when i say they make it for T25 as well?
Thanks in advanced.
1) I know that the GT2860RS is a T25 flanged turbo, but where the hell can I get a downpipe that will fit the 5 bolt turbine outlet?
2) Does the GT2860RS turbo have an internal wastegate?
3) Why is the Vulcan Tubular Manifold so damn expensive? What's so good about it? Explain?
4)It says they make the manifold in T2, T3, T4 and so on so am I right when i say they make it for T25 as well?
Thanks in advanced.
2.) yes the disco potato has an internal wastegate
3.) no idea have to ask vulcan lol I have heard bad/good things about vulcan
4.) I would say go with a dif turbo than the gt2860rs, u will eventually out work the turbo if u build ur motor and it is coolant cooled as well which can be a bitch if u do not have direct bent coolant lines.
i have the garrett kit and since the turbo is coolant cooled i have over heating issues sometimes which sucks real bad
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
Joined: 01-23-10
Posts: 674
Likes: 0
From: Suffolk, England
Hey thanks for the input man yeah i know the limits of the gt28 but ive already bought the kit from another member so im sticking with it for now. um did you mean have an adapter made for the 5 bolt into a v band? over heating does suck hmm ima look into some different cooling options.
Hey thanks for the input man yeah i know the limits of the gt28 but ive already bought the kit from another member so im sticking with it for now. um did you mean have an adapter made for the 5 bolt into a v band? over heating does suck hmm ima look into some different cooling options.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
Joined: 01-23-10
Posts: 674
Likes: 0
From: Suffolk, England
aight thanks man ill let you know if i need it
i just need to figure out what downpipe im going to use. i was thinking maybe CIA could makeshift one for me but haven't called them yet. maybe zzp would make one for me without the external wastegate. doubt it though.
What do you mean? Any exhaust shop can make you a downpipe for cheaper than zzp. Your external wastegate is in the manifold not the downpipe.
wait i remember u buying this kit for like 2100 shipped iirc. it didnt come with the part that goes to the downpipe? The exhaust side of the turbo?
also why wouldnt u run the garrett manifold that came with the kit
for 2100 bucks that should have came with every nut, bolt, washer, etc u need to correctly hook up the kit.
also why wouldnt u run the garrett manifold that came with the kit
for 2100 bucks that should have came with every nut, bolt, washer, etc u need to correctly hook up the kit.
Last edited by PsychoCam; Apr 19, 2011 at 12:40 AM.
wait i remember u buying this kit for like 2100 shipped iirc. it didnt come with the part that goes to the downpipe? The exhaust side of the turbo?
also why wouldnt u run the garrett manifold that came with the kit
for 2100 bucks that should have came with every nut, bolt, washer, etc u need to correctly hook up the kit.
also why wouldnt u run the garrett manifold that came with the kit
for 2100 bucks that should have came with every nut, bolt, washer, etc u need to correctly hook up the kit.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
Joined: 01-23-10
Posts: 674
Likes: 0
From: Suffolk, England
yeah well maybe ill resell the kit and just peice together one but the reason im trying to buy all of this other equipment is because i dont wnna use the garrett manifold it looks just like my stock pos one i had before and yes it came with the downpipe atachment BUT i have vibrant hdr/dp combo so i don't think it will work with that flange, im pretty sure that it was made to bolt onto the stock downpipe.
it will bolt to ay downpipe made for a cobalt that has a 3 bolt flange. i am running a zzp 3" dp on my garett kit.
the garret manifold is not a pos. it is tested and proven to be a good piece. I dyno'd at 251whp and about to dyno this sat bc i put a new tb on. so i will be atleast 255 without any internal work.
so just sell the vibrant setup and get a new downpipe, save urself time and money u wil have a hard time making ur money back on that kit. I bought mine with only couple hundred miles on the kit for less than u paid. they go for cheap when the right person sells the kit.
whiteg5 is selling his kit for like 1200 shipped.
so imo keep the kit get a new dp and make easily 250 hp with some more mods.
pm me if u have any ?'s
the garret manifold is not a pos. it is tested and proven to be a good piece. I dyno'd at 251whp and about to dyno this sat bc i put a new tb on. so i will be atleast 255 without any internal work.
so just sell the vibrant setup and get a new downpipe, save urself time and money u wil have a hard time making ur money back on that kit. I bought mine with only couple hundred miles on the kit for less than u paid. they go for cheap when the right person sells the kit.
whiteg5 is selling his kit for like 1200 shipped.
so imo keep the kit get a new dp and make easily 250 hp with some more mods.
pm me if u have any ?'s
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
Joined: 01-23-10
Posts: 674
Likes: 0
From: Suffolk, England
it will bolt to ay downpipe made for a cobalt that has a 3 bolt flange. i am running a zzp 3" dp on my garett kit.
the garret manifold is not a pos. it is tested and proven to be a good piece. I dyno'd at 251whp and about to dyno this sat bc i put a new tb on. so i will be atleast 255 without any internal work.
so just sell the vibrant setup and get a new downpipe, save urself time and money u wil have a hard time making ur money back on that kit. I bought mine with only couple hundred miles on the kit for less than u paid. they go for cheap when the right person sells the kit.
whiteg5 is selling his kit for like 1200 shipped.
so imo keep the kit get a new dp and make easily 250 hp with some more mods.
pm me if u have any ?'s
the garret manifold is not a pos. it is tested and proven to be a good piece. I dyno'd at 251whp and about to dyno this sat bc i put a new tb on. so i will be atleast 255 without any internal work.
so just sell the vibrant setup and get a new downpipe, save urself time and money u wil have a hard time making ur money back on that kit. I bought mine with only couple hundred miles on the kit for less than u paid. they go for cheap when the right person sells the kit.
whiteg5 is selling his kit for like 1200 shipped.
so imo keep the kit get a new dp and make easily 250 hp with some more mods.
pm me if u have any ?'s
thats all. but anyway im probably going to have a few questions here and there as i start looking at things more when i get back. im in spain right now for this stupid libya ****. buck ofama in my opinion. also you said you're using a zzp downpipe? would the vibrant downpipe work? and would you recommend me getting a bigger exhaust im using the vibrant 2 3/8" right now.
I was going to buy this kit b4 u did for a back up kit but I told the seller that I wouldnt pay near his asking price. he dropped his price dramatically day after day to make a quick sell. u still got a deal as long as it has all the componenets.
my kit was missing a couple small parts and it took me weeks to find a supplier to get the direct parts from hahn and or garrett (and the parts were not cheap)
honestly the garrett manifold is cast iron and really good quaility, ya not shiny but damn i cant even see it with my turbo back there. if ur dp is a 3 bolt flange by the header it will work. if it is another style like a v band then it wont work. i have a 3" dp and 2.5" catback, I use to have full 3" exhaust but for better gas milage and dd driving i went back down to a 2.5" catback and took a small power loss.
ya the kit has a lot of nuts and bolts so it seems like a lot but it goes together easily
there are actually 2 types for that kit,
the garrett kit and the hahn racecraft kit.
the garrett kit was first produced then hahn took over and made some adjustments to the oil feed/return system
if u have the hahn kit ur oil feed has to be drilled into the side of the motor by the water pump. and the drain goes to the oil drain plug. (imo very stupid setup for both)
if u have the garret setup the oil feed goes to a galley plug in the back of motor under the manifold and the oil drain gets drilled into the oil boss in the back of the block.
if ur kit came with the fuel fueler imo it really isnt needed but u can use it. zzp makes a better kit using a vaccum source for boost reference. brfs it is called.
i hope some of this info helps u out.
my kit was missing a couple small parts and it took me weeks to find a supplier to get the direct parts from hahn and or garrett (and the parts were not cheap)
honestly the garrett manifold is cast iron and really good quaility, ya not shiny but damn i cant even see it with my turbo back there. if ur dp is a 3 bolt flange by the header it will work. if it is another style like a v band then it wont work. i have a 3" dp and 2.5" catback, I use to have full 3" exhaust but for better gas milage and dd driving i went back down to a 2.5" catback and took a small power loss.
ya the kit has a lot of nuts and bolts so it seems like a lot but it goes together easily
there are actually 2 types for that kit,
the garrett kit and the hahn racecraft kit.
the garrett kit was first produced then hahn took over and made some adjustments to the oil feed/return system
if u have the hahn kit ur oil feed has to be drilled into the side of the motor by the water pump. and the drain goes to the oil drain plug. (imo very stupid setup for both)
if u have the garret setup the oil feed goes to a galley plug in the back of motor under the manifold and the oil drain gets drilled into the oil boss in the back of the block.
if ur kit came with the fuel fueler imo it really isnt needed but u can use it. zzp makes a better kit using a vaccum source for boost reference. brfs it is called.
i hope some of this info helps u out.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
Joined: 01-23-10
Posts: 674
Likes: 0
From: Suffolk, England
yeah it helps i wish the guy i bought the kit from wouldnt have taken the picture down, i couldve shown you the kit. but to my knowlegde its the hahn racecraft kit.
also am i really going to have to drill into the side of my motor? how hard would that be or should i just get someone else to do it?
also am i really going to have to drill into the side of my motor? how hard would that be or should i just get someone else to do it?
yeah it helps i wish the guy i bought the kit from wouldnt have taken the picture down, i couldve shown you the kit. but to my knowlegde its the hahn racecraft kit.
also am i really going to have to drill into the side of my motor? how hard would that be or should i just get someone else to do it?
also am i really going to have to drill into the side of my motor? how hard would that be or should i just get someone else to do it?
U are the motivation that made me buy my kit yrs ago
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
Joined: 01-23-10
Posts: 674
Likes: 0
From: Suffolk, England
haha awesome thanks for the support 
but yeah so ill probably just have someone do it professionally then i haven't been working on engines long enough to know wtf im doing. but as for all the bolts and clamps im sure i can manage.also since im in the air force i know this guy that works in vehicle maintenance he said he knows a lot about turbo setups so hopefully he's not full of **** and an actually help me. i was just planning on doing a **** load of research before i started but any help i can get is welcome lol.
but yeah so ill probably just have someone do it professionally then i haven't been working on engines long enough to know wtf im doing. but as for all the bolts and clamps im sure i can manage.also since im in the air force i know this guy that works in vehicle maintenance he said he knows a lot about turbo setups so hopefully he's not full of **** and an actually help me. i was just planning on doing a **** load of research before i started but any help i can get is welcome lol.
Just tap the oil pan as close to the top as you can. Don't mess around with drilling the block. That's risky and hard to keep all the metal out. Pull the pan and do it that way. Takes like 2 hours
if u have the hahn kit the oil drain is designed to utilize the oil drain plug location like the lsj hahn turbo kit, if not just drill the oil pan and weld in a bung there
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/fron...ragaway-62948/
here is a link about hahn racecraft 2.2 some pics of the oil feed line and fuel fueler setup
here is a link about hahn racecraft 2.2 some pics of the oil feed line and fuel fueler setup
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
Joined: 01-23-10
Posts: 674
Likes: 0
From: Suffolk, England
thanks guy im having a hard time following what you're saying about how to drill but i understand where the oil pan is and not to drill into the block because of metal shards which is common sense. um i think what i will need info on is exactly how and what to drill with and the steps on how to do it.
thanks guy im having a hard time following what you're saying about how to drill but i understand where the oil pan is and not to drill into the block because of metal shards which is common sense. um i think what i will need info on is exactly how and what to drill with and the steps on how to do it.





