So i got my stage 2 installed not to long ago and i threw a check engine light. Its pretty much telling me i needed a thermostat, or a sensor. So after a few days the CEL turns off. On occasions in turns on again. My coolant wont get hotter the 140 DEGREES, unless i let it sit at idle for 10 mins. Ever since that happen, My gauges turn off when i drive. Besides all these problems Im spending close to a 100 DOLLARS A WEEK on GAS alone. From school to work. My Odometer reads 17.8-18.3 MPG. NOT BEATING ON IT.

SOME ONE PLEASE HELP

 

ide reccomend bringing it back to the dealership or getting it reflashed or tuned.

 

weird....

 

Yeah, get it reflashed, and go from there..

 

**** dude, that sucks... take it to the dealership asap

 

I have no warranty. Its a "R" Title. So it voids the warranty. Im trying to sell to balt because im so BROKE. now i have to go and spend another $150 on a reflash

 

well if it is staying at 140 degrees that will cause the engine to be less efficient when it is colder the the engine requires more fuel!!! to bad you don't live around me i would reflash it for free.

 

If the car is staying at 140 degrees all the time, chances are that the thermostat is stuck open. You should defiantley get that fixed - it should not be hard to do. Basically you are getting shitty gas mileage becasue the engine is never getting warm enough to efficiently burn the gas. Not to mention that if the car isn't getting above 140 the oil is never reaching its optimal lubricating tempurature which is not all that great either.

 

It's possible that the crank angle sensor has gone out and that would cause an occasional CEL and a tach failure. It has happened to me. But if all you guages are going, I'd say it's an ECU problem related to the stage 2 mod...

In the stage 2 mod is there any electrical work? New sensors, etc, anything that might have zapped the ECU?

 

mmmmm even if the thermostat is stuck open, it should eventually make it to running temp, might drop as coolant is circulated under rev, but eventually would stabilize to typical running temp.

 

i have seen tons of vehicles never make it to running temp with a stuck open thermostat. even if it did, it would take what over 30 mins, which is a long time, it should make it to 165 in 10 mins if it doesn't that is when it throws a code. just isn't efficent

 

if anything, i would think the temp reading of 140ish is a tell tale sign of something wrong.. the normal range is from 180 to 200.... definately weird

 

when i had my intake on my gas was at 18.5-19.5 and my engine wouldnt get hotter then 178..took it off and im getting 21.8 and engine is still out of the 200s for the most part..is a reflash free if you have warranty

 

When my wife's car's thermostat broke, the temp needle never even came off the "Cold" peg. After 2 hours of highway driving on a 70 degree day, I could still grab the radiator with my bare hands and it was cool to the touch. I checked the coolant and it was full, too.

 

I had a thermostat stuck open once. It was in winter and like 20 - 30 degrees outside. No matter how far I drove (it was about 45 minutes to work in traffic) I may have gotten to 120 - 130... barely hot enough to even get any heat going to keep me warm at all.

srcobaltss: 178 is fine. My car in the winter time usually stays about 178 - 180. In summer it is usually between 180 - 190. Your gas mileage is probably more a result of your foot pressing down on the pedal then anything else...