Clutch i heard kinda sucks

 

Depends on how fat the driver is This would probably be funnier if you knew me because I'm a big guy. Anyways, the curb weight is 2970 lbs according to road and track for the 2005 model, and I think the 06 and 07 are the same. I haven't actually had mine weighed but all numbers cited that I have seen range from 2900-3000lbs.

 

http://www.edmunds.com/new/2007/chev...07055&state=NJ
Use that. Its better because it doesnt make u talk to a salesman to find out about how many months 0% APR is available for
That 1500 $$$ rebate started yesterday. My car was supposed to come in at the beginning of next month and it came in reallllyyyy early so i was happy/upset because i thought a 1k rebate would come on the 3rd of next month when the $500 expired. When i saw 0%/$1500 i almost cried

 

Polish, 2fastSS and LTcoupeTUNER all received rep from me

thanks guys

 

Hey man and welcome to the site. im gonna say what everyone else said and the only thing that sucks in these cars are wheelhop and first gear. I would suggest you think about what you want to do with the car before you mod it. Do you want to auto x it or do you wanna drag, then go from there.

 

Thanks!

Id like to build it like the other cars I built. More drag but both. Sounds like to me the VERY first or best mod for these cars would be to down size these HUGE 18 inch wheels to a 16 inch wheel and add some better tires. 18 wheels have NO side tread (d@mn near) THat'll kill you coming outta the hole at the track.

Then after wheels and tires, Im thinking stage I then II.

 

honestly i was all about gm stage 2, but for about 2 grand you can have a much more nastier balt.

 

i wouldnt worry about the wheels so much at first. There are other bigger problems with getting out of the hole like wheel hop. Stage 2 will also help with first gear being so short because the rev limiter is increased to 7000 rpm.

Your better off getting just Stage 2 you do not have to go through them sequentially unless your going from stage 2 to stage 3. So save your dough and just get stage 2. Wheel hop will have to be dealt with and there are many options from solid and poly motor/trans mounts, to Control Arm Bushings (CAB's), to traction bars, to torque dampners and others im sure. And of course with any Forced Induction intake and exhaust prove worthy gains.

 

depends on how you treat it. there is a sticky in transmission on how to get the best of your clutch. (not slipping, last a bit longer, ect.) cobalts pushing close to or over 300whp generally get a better clutch a lot of others get a better clutch if there stock one does **** out.

 

yeah but thats the thing. The terrible wheel hop I keep hearing about is due to these large wheels these cars have or the 17 inch wheels they "down size too" Most race cars at the track run 15's. I figure if I were to go to a 16 wheel that would be fine. We use to run a Chey Xtrem which had 16's and there was plenty of side tread.

Would I still get all the gain from jumping over the stage I and going II?

 

IMO stage I is not worth it stage II is def. more bang for the buck

 

Thanks but how do you give rep? Is it the green bar?

 

white scale below your avatar....

and I called myself a new guy

also...

what is the slip differential for these cars? I thought I saw a G95 or some sorta code posted.

If I buy one I wanna make sure it has a slip dif on the car

 

G85, and some argue you dont need it to dragg, I think its a option yoiu can go without!!

As for your comment on the 16vs17vs18... I'll know this summer, Iam going to try the 18's and then my lighweight 16's... guessing the 16's should at least be 0.1-0.2 of a sec quicker.

 

without a doubt. Side wall is far more important than you think

Im willing to bet all these comments such as "I have terrible wheel hop" "I spun at the track" are coming from folks running a 17 or 18 inch wheel

run a 16 inch wheel with lower tire pressure and watch the E/T's drop

Also very importantly...

I hope you're coming outta the hole at the correct RPM. One of the biggest mistakes is coming out to high (rpm)

 

Yes just go straight to Stage II like I said they are not sequential. You technically get stage I when you purchase Stage II.

Stage I: 42.5 lb/hr Fuel Injectors
PCM reflash tune

Stage II: 42.5 lb/hr Fuel Injectors
PCM reflash tune
Smaller supercharger pulley
Smaller belt to compensate for smaller pulley

And the wheel hop doesnt stem so much from the 18"s as it does the soft motor mounts, tranny mounts, and CAB's. They cut down the vibration in-cab but they give way to much and let the drivetrain move quite a bit. Remember this is FWD land and the engine is mounted transversly not longitudnal so all that moement is the same rotation as the wheels which gives you a nasty hop. But im sure the wheels would help some.

O and a weak link in the drivetrain is the axles at first wheel hop was killing them, but with proper prevention of wheel hop even hooking up with DR's is proving to snap these toothpicks. They do sell 400+hp axles but they are quite pricey.