I always go by the DIC as far as changing the oil. Usually get about 7K miles between changes. I always change my filter at 50% on the DIC as well (3K - 3.5K miles). If I ever see any real world testing that shows that the cobalt filter can continue to filter well beyond 3K and that the filter can continue to filter well up to around 7K, then I will leave it in for the entire time.

 

I change mine when the DIC gets low or my car starts knocking a lot.

It's only at 30% oil life on the DIC right now and the car's been knocking an awful lot, on more than one brand's gas (including Shell), and at stupid times (like starting from a stop, light throttle acceleration, etc... on stock tune even). When I change the oil it's gone.

Interesting article: http://www.cmclinnovations.com/print...y_07_knock.pdf

It basically talks about how oil can cause knock. As the oil is used, it's properties change slightly.

 

you all do realize the life span of a oil filter is about as long as a flea that lands on your arm...unless you sit there and watch fleas drink you dry

 

So an oil filter is shot and all of the element becomes clogged with junk shortly after installing it? Not quite.

 

I can not believe threads like this are still made ....

If you are running synthetic oil you do not need to change the oil any earlier than 5,000 miles. You are just wasting your money.

You change your oil filter when you change your oil. You do not need to change your oil filter before you change your oil. It's pointless, and once again a waste of money.

 

I think common sense dictates here. Whoops, I forgot............

 

The reason why I made this thread was get this.....Because I want to get the correct information!!!!!!!!!!!

I never asked about changing the oil, just the filter because I heard conflicting information from other people I know IRL and I came on here to get the facts straight. I believe it's better to ask a question about something I'm not sure of then to just assume.

 

That part of my post was not directed towards you. It was towards some of the rediculous posts within your thread. This is prob the 1,000,000th thread dealing with this same topic. Use the search button, and you will prob find the same exact question you asked with get this .... Answers !!

 

Your best resource for oil related questions is the "Bob is the Oil Guy" forums. The answer you will likely get over there is to just change the filter when you change the oil. If you're going by the OLM, then you aren't using a long enough oil change interval to where it's necessary to do a filter change between oil changes.

 

Back in the day, before a lot of you guys were born, when synthetics first hit the market the word was you would NEVER have to change your oil again. Or if you DID you would only be reusing oil that had been run through a very fine, high tech, filter. You have to understand the basics of oil, what it does and how it does it. First let's start calling it "engine lubricant". Oil is oil. Synthetic isn't. The lubricant in your engine has two BASIC functions. One is to maintain metal to metal clearances in the engine. Or simply PREVENT metal to metal CONTACT. That is where the viscosity comes in. Different engines require different viscosities depending on many factors that I don't even want to get into here. Suffice to say the engineers will use many variables to determine what's best for THAT SPECIFIC engine. The second basic function is to HOLD CONTAMINATION IN SUSPENSION while it carries that contamination to/through the filter. It also plays a part in engine cooling but that really is just a gimme and plays only a small part in lubricant selection. Synthetics biggest benefit is it's resistance to viscosity "breakdown", or just plain wearing out. A mineral oils viscosity changes with heat. A synthetics doesn't. Mineral oil must start cold much thicker, heavier, that at it's designed run temp. Synthetic starts and runs at the same consistency meaning it can be a much lighter weight and allow the engine to run more efficiectly. So considerating these facts, if you could just keep the oil, excuse me, lubricant CLEAN with the viscosity remaining constant you would NEVER have to CHANGE it. Just keep it clean. I asked a guy many years ago about synthetic lubricants ability to resist being washed away by gasoline. He couldn't give me the definitive answer but led me to believe that it DOES resist the washing effect of gasoline meaning the cylinder walls weren't as susceptable to gasoline wash down from the combustion chamber. But this is all just the frosting on the synthetic cake. With the modern materials and engineering used today along with the synthetic lubricants available this is a much better world for the internal combustion engine. I don't know for certain but I'd make a small bet the synthetic in our cars, everything else being equal, would still test acceptable 20,000 miles down the road. Or maybe even more.

But back to the original question? When to change oil and filter? As often or as seldom as you and your wallet are comfortable with. The ONLY way to know for SURE? Oil analysis every 5000 miles. But by the time you pay for two of those tests you probably could have done the change, oil AND filter, at 10,000. Personally? I shoot for 5,000 so if I miss it by 2,000 I really don't feel TOO bad. Again back in the day, big trucking companies didn't just throw out used engine oil. They mixed it together with the fuel in the tanks and burned it. They replaced a few more fuel filters but it was still cheaper than paying somebody to cart it away and at 50 plus quarts a change it gave them a few more miles per tank full. I don't think they can do that any more with synthetics. Just a little trivia. A little more trivia? When I was a kid I had a 49 Plymouth that burned so much oil I used to buy "Re-Refined" (recycled) motor oil in 5 gal cans. We didn't have a big mosquito problem back then.

 

If i had a cobalt, id probably change the filter every 3k and the oil every 6k.

 

I change my oil and filter every 3k with mobile one and only use 93 gas. Just my 2 cents

 

every 3k with pennzoil ultra. The filters are pretty much crap after 3k and if I'm going to put the work in to change the filter i'm going to change the oil too, especially since its free for me.

 

This is why i use conventional oil in the Challenger, free oil and filter!

 

Put work into changing the filter? It takes 1 minute... how is that alot of work?

 

must be coming from a guy who doesnt have an LSJ.

 

hes got a TC, that explains it.

 

ok, so with all this 3k miles argument. so for people like me, who put ONLY 4867 miles since i own the car, and its benn 1 year and 4 months. what do i do? i do road course time attack, and some highway pull. do i change my oil by miles? or change my miles by months? please help me out.

 

3 months / 3000 for me

 

Test the oil at 5000 miles and go from there. That's called marching to your own drummer.

 

im the kind of person who calls for more maintenance than necessary. mobil1 synthetic oil, OEM ac delco filter and ngk 1step colder copper spark plugs every 4000-5000 miles. it keeps the car happy and i haven't had an issue yet

 

THIS. holy cow. you broke mother ******* are pathetic. waste of money? its $50 freaking every 3 months. better safe than sorry in my book. if i could change it every day i would lol.

 

i go by the dic. then again i have a le5, but still. if the oil still looks "clean" there is no reason to change it.

 

x2

 

I had a 2005 SS/SC before I bought my SS/TC. The TC is exactly the same to change the filter as the SC. The SC may not be in the way, but the intake manifold and fuel pump pressure regulator are right where the SC was. I could change the filter on my SC in 1 minute, and I can change it on my TC in 1 minute. You just have to know "the trick" I guess.