Electrical: DIY How To: install compustar remote starter in 2008 Cobalt SS
12-28-2013, 04:49 PM
#1
New Member
Thread Starter
DIY How To: install compustar remote starter in 2008 Cobalt SS
Hello,
This write up will go through the process I went to in order to get a compustar remote starter to work in a 2008 Cobalt SS (manual, turbo, coupe, obviously).
The equipment installed is a 1WG6 remote, with a CM6200 unit, and Blade AL. (items bought as a package on eBay, seller programmed Blade AL for my vehicle, i recommend you also ask the seller to program Option Group 2-12 to option setting 3, this will give you a longer "crank time", not that your vehicle will crank longer, but it will bypass the clutch for longer, more on this later)
"why these parts" some may ask; 1WG6 comes with 2 remotes with 4 button, 1-way, Amplitude Modulation (AM) compustar claims "up to 1000 ft" range.
I chose this because it is the cheapest remotes they have which also has separate lock/unlock buttons.
The CM6200 "unit" is the "brain", from my research i assumed this is what was needed for a remote starter.
the blade AL is a ... "blade" that plugs into the CM6200, it connects to the low speed Car Area Network (CAN), and does the "transponder bypass" making the car think the key is in the ignition.
I chose the blade AL, because to my understanding this was needed to allow me to lock/unlock with the compustar remote, as well as provide the "transponder bypass" making the car think a key is in the ignition to do the remote start.
How this works on a manual. Compustar has what they call "RESERVATION MODE" it is a sequence that proves to the remote starter that the car is in neutral, so that it can do a remote start later. To enter "reservation mode" once at destination in neutral, apply e-brake, release foot brake, remove key (engine remains running), exit vehicle, when you close the door, the engine should shut down and lock the doors, and remote starter is in "reservation mode" if you open the doors again, it will get out of reservation mode, and you wont be able to do a remote start. For more info read some compustar user manual.
TOOLS NEEDED: volt-meter, 7mm, 10mm socket, tool to pry off interior trim, soldering iron, solder, wire strippers, electrical tape, heat shrink tubing, lighter, 1 diode, 500 ohm resistor, and LOTS of patience.
INSTALLATION:
1) disconnect 12V battery, (10mm socket)
2) remove the bottom interior panel to the left of center console (small plastic piece to the right of the accelerator pedal). Remove same panel from right side of center console. These panels are press fit, so just pull; this will expose both sides of the Body Control Module (BCM).
3) I installed the CM6200 below the radio and above the HVAC buttons so i had to take off the silver rim around the radio, and the silver panel above the glove box, they just pull out. then used 7mm socket to loosen HVAC button to allow more room.
NOTE: all but 1 wires were spliced close to the BCM, I thought this would make for a cleaner installation, less soldering since all but 1 wire reached, and did not need extended.
set up CM6200 before putting it in car:
a) cut CN1-2 yellow, starter, not needed.
b) I cut one of the CN1-5 no need for 2, i only used 1.
c) connect CN3-10 to CN3-12
d) connect CN3-1 to CN3-3
e) connect CN3-18 to CN1-1
f) you will notice a LOT of wires are unused, i cut them all, and insulated them when the installation was done.
Now for the connections:
Compustar connector, wire --> vehicle connector, wire
CN1-1 white, accessory --> connect to X4-C8 brown, (left side of BCM, pin is just right of the screw in the connector, only brown wire) Compustar instructs to connect by ignition switch, but i thought going to the BCM would be cleaner with shorter wire.
CN1-2 yellow, cut off, not needed
CN1-3 green, ignition --> connect to X4-D3 yellow (GM calls this Run/Crank line, just left of the screw in the connector, only yellow wire) Compustart instructs to connect by ignition switch, but i thought going to the BCM would be cleaner with shorter wire.
CN1-4 black, ground --> connect to one of the screws part of the metal beam next to the BCM in driver side.
CN1-5, red 12v constant --> connect to X3-D1 red (passenger side big connector, biggest red wire in upper left of connector)
CN1-6, green/white parking light --> connect to X3-A7 brown (red BSM connector, passenger side, third row, 7th column)
With instructions from blade installation guide, document 8863, follow that wire diagram, here are the BCM connections.
http://cdncontent2.idatalink.com/cor...2_20120321.pdf
"passlock" circuit (GM calls it Off/Run/Crank) X2-56, white.
Data (SWC) circuit (GM calls it Low Speed CAN) X2-38, dark green
Accessory X4-C8 brown (as stated in CN1 description above)
Security light X2-11 dark green
Outside the instruction in document 8863, pg9, there are 2 more wires to connect.
1) Clutch bypass: the clutch sensor is not accessible without removing the steering column, so you have to reach it in the harness going right above the drivers feet, next to the OBD II connector. It is a light green wire, of course there are 2 light green wires in that harness, it is the "lighter" of the light green, should be 4V with clutch not-pressed, 1.2V with clutch pressed all the way down, the sensor is a potentiometer, ECM must be powered on (key in RUN worked for me) to test that wire. Connect compustar CN2-5 red/black to clutch wire WITH A RESISTOR in series. Even though i was instructed to use 180 Ohms, that pulled the clutch sensor down to 0.4V, so i used a 500 Ohm resistor, which got me to 0.8V, closer to the vehicles normal 1.2V with clutch pressed all the way down.
The blade AL was supposed to read the door status, and tell the CM6200 when the door is closed, and shut down the engine and enter reservation mode. For an UNKNOWN reason, this DID NOT WORK. If i had a blade programmer i would have done some troubleshooting with the options but since i dont, i had to wire in the door trigger wire, with a diode as stated below:
2) The RAP shutdown is the compustar CN3-5 orange black wire that makes the BCM think the door opened and closed, so that it shuts down the radio when it shuts down the engine or else radio stays on for 10 minutes. Problem is that this makes the remote starter think that the door opened and closed twice, kicking it out of Reservation Mode, so you have to wire in a diode. Connect BCM side of X1-22 to CN3-5 orange/black. Connect vehicle side of X1-22 (door sensor) to CN2-10 red/white connect a diode (i used 1N4000 from radio shack, 50V diode) from (X1-22 BCM & CN3-5) to (X1-22 vehicle side & CN2-10) with the diode band towards the vehicle side. This will allow the BCM to think it sees a door open and close, to turn off the radio, while the CM6200 doesn't see it, and still remains in Reservation Mode.
Once all that is done, module needs to learn a few things:
1) follow blade learning procedure, doc 8863, pg10.
2) program remotes to CM6200, instructions included
3) learn tach; instructions included.
I wrote this because i struggled A LOT to find all these little things since none are stated in a single location, most information i did find was incorrect.
DISCLAIMER: I have no connection to Compustar, i am only a customer. I am not a dealer, nor do i do this for a living, my apologies if anything i said is incorrect. This was NOT EASY, and I can not help others debug their problems. This worked on my 2008 Cobalt, I do not know how other model years would work.
Please do not make this thread about "remote starters are for pansies" or "you're an idiot for putting a remote start in a manual" that is not the topic of this thread.
This write up will go through the process I went to in order to get a compustar remote starter to work in a 2008 Cobalt SS (manual, turbo, coupe, obviously).
The equipment installed is a 1WG6 remote, with a CM6200 unit, and Blade AL. (items bought as a package on eBay, seller programmed Blade AL for my vehicle, i recommend you also ask the seller to program Option Group 2-12 to option setting 3, this will give you a longer "crank time", not that your vehicle will crank longer, but it will bypass the clutch for longer, more on this later)
"why these parts" some may ask; 1WG6 comes with 2 remotes with 4 button, 1-way, Amplitude Modulation (AM) compustar claims "up to 1000 ft" range.
I chose this because it is the cheapest remotes they have which also has separate lock/unlock buttons.
The CM6200 "unit" is the "brain", from my research i assumed this is what was needed for a remote starter.
the blade AL is a ... "blade" that plugs into the CM6200, it connects to the low speed Car Area Network (CAN), and does the "transponder bypass" making the car think the key is in the ignition.
I chose the blade AL, because to my understanding this was needed to allow me to lock/unlock with the compustar remote, as well as provide the "transponder bypass" making the car think a key is in the ignition to do the remote start.
How this works on a manual. Compustar has what they call "RESERVATION MODE" it is a sequence that proves to the remote starter that the car is in neutral, so that it can do a remote start later. To enter "reservation mode" once at destination in neutral, apply e-brake, release foot brake, remove key (engine remains running), exit vehicle, when you close the door, the engine should shut down and lock the doors, and remote starter is in "reservation mode" if you open the doors again, it will get out of reservation mode, and you wont be able to do a remote start. For more info read some compustar user manual.
TOOLS NEEDED: volt-meter, 7mm, 10mm socket, tool to pry off interior trim, soldering iron, solder, wire strippers, electrical tape, heat shrink tubing, lighter, 1 diode, 500 ohm resistor, and LOTS of patience.
INSTALLATION:
1) disconnect 12V battery, (10mm socket)
2) remove the bottom interior panel to the left of center console (small plastic piece to the right of the accelerator pedal). Remove same panel from right side of center console. These panels are press fit, so just pull; this will expose both sides of the Body Control Module (BCM).
3) I installed the CM6200 below the radio and above the HVAC buttons so i had to take off the silver rim around the radio, and the silver panel above the glove box, they just pull out. then used 7mm socket to loosen HVAC button to allow more room.
NOTE: all but 1 wires were spliced close to the BCM, I thought this would make for a cleaner installation, less soldering since all but 1 wire reached, and did not need extended.
set up CM6200 before putting it in car:
a) cut CN1-2 yellow, starter, not needed.
b) I cut one of the CN1-5 no need for 2, i only used 1.
c) connect CN3-10 to CN3-12
d) connect CN3-1 to CN3-3
e) connect CN3-18 to CN1-1
f) you will notice a LOT of wires are unused, i cut them all, and insulated them when the installation was done.
Now for the connections:
Compustar connector, wire --> vehicle connector, wire
CN1-1 white, accessory --> connect to X4-C8 brown, (left side of BCM, pin is just right of the screw in the connector, only brown wire) Compustar instructs to connect by ignition switch, but i thought going to the BCM would be cleaner with shorter wire.
CN1-2 yellow, cut off, not needed
CN1-3 green, ignition --> connect to X4-D3 yellow (GM calls this Run/Crank line, just left of the screw in the connector, only yellow wire) Compustart instructs to connect by ignition switch, but i thought going to the BCM would be cleaner with shorter wire.
CN1-4 black, ground --> connect to one of the screws part of the metal beam next to the BCM in driver side.
CN1-5, red 12v constant --> connect to X3-D1 red (passenger side big connector, biggest red wire in upper left of connector)
CN1-6, green/white parking light --> connect to X3-A7 brown (red BSM connector, passenger side, third row, 7th column)
With instructions from blade installation guide, document 8863, follow that wire diagram, here are the BCM connections.
http://cdncontent2.idatalink.com/cor...2_20120321.pdf
"passlock" circuit (GM calls it Off/Run/Crank) X2-56, white.
Data (SWC) circuit (GM calls it Low Speed CAN) X2-38, dark green
Accessory X4-C8 brown (as stated in CN1 description above)
Security light X2-11 dark green
Outside the instruction in document 8863, pg9, there are 2 more wires to connect.
1) Clutch bypass: the clutch sensor is not accessible without removing the steering column, so you have to reach it in the harness going right above the drivers feet, next to the OBD II connector. It is a light green wire, of course there are 2 light green wires in that harness, it is the "lighter" of the light green, should be 4V with clutch not-pressed, 1.2V with clutch pressed all the way down, the sensor is a potentiometer, ECM must be powered on (key in RUN worked for me) to test that wire. Connect compustar CN2-5 red/black to clutch wire WITH A RESISTOR in series. Even though i was instructed to use 180 Ohms, that pulled the clutch sensor down to 0.4V, so i used a 500 Ohm resistor, which got me to 0.8V, closer to the vehicles normal 1.2V with clutch pressed all the way down.
The blade AL was supposed to read the door status, and tell the CM6200 when the door is closed, and shut down the engine and enter reservation mode. For an UNKNOWN reason, this DID NOT WORK. If i had a blade programmer i would have done some troubleshooting with the options but since i dont, i had to wire in the door trigger wire, with a diode as stated below:
2) The RAP shutdown is the compustar CN3-5 orange black wire that makes the BCM think the door opened and closed, so that it shuts down the radio when it shuts down the engine or else radio stays on for 10 minutes. Problem is that this makes the remote starter think that the door opened and closed twice, kicking it out of Reservation Mode, so you have to wire in a diode. Connect BCM side of X1-22 to CN3-5 orange/black. Connect vehicle side of X1-22 (door sensor) to CN2-10 red/white connect a diode (i used 1N4000 from radio shack, 50V diode) from (X1-22 BCM & CN3-5) to (X1-22 vehicle side & CN2-10) with the diode band towards the vehicle side. This will allow the BCM to think it sees a door open and close, to turn off the radio, while the CM6200 doesn't see it, and still remains in Reservation Mode.
Once all that is done, module needs to learn a few things:
1) follow blade learning procedure, doc 8863, pg10.
2) program remotes to CM6200, instructions included
3) learn tach; instructions included.
I wrote this because i struggled A LOT to find all these little things since none are stated in a single location, most information i did find was incorrect.
DISCLAIMER: I have no connection to Compustar, i am only a customer. I am not a dealer, nor do i do this for a living, my apologies if anything i said is incorrect. This was NOT EASY, and I can not help others debug their problems. This worked on my 2008 Cobalt, I do not know how other model years would work.
Please do not make this thread about "remote starters are for pansies" or "you're an idiot for putting a remote start in a manual" that is not the topic of this thread.
02-21-2014, 07:36 AM
#3
I have a Compustar remote start in my SC. It was put in by the original owner and no one at the dealership I bought it at was able to tell me how it works. Imagine my surprise the first time I stumbled upon the activation mode for my car and it kept running after I pulled my key from the ignition. I only use it in the winter but I like it.
By the way with mine the radio stays on for 20 minutes or so when in auto start mode unless I turn the radio off manually. Is yours the same or is there a way to program it so the radio shuts off with the car when in remote start mode?
By the way with mine the radio stays on for 20 minutes or so when in auto start mode unless I turn the radio off manually. Is yours the same or is there a way to program it so the radio shuts off with the car when in remote start mode?
06-22-2014, 01:47 PM
#4
New Member
Thread Starter
Hello Guys,
I forgot to check back on this post for a while. Figured I'd provide an upgrade:
It turns out that the 1WG6 remotes were inadequate for my expectations. It had better range than the OEM key fob, but that doesn't say much. It wouldn't reach across the VERY large parking lot at work, we're talking maybe 1/4 mile here, it also didn't do very well in transmitting through larger buildings, like at the gym.
My e-bay seller let me upgrade to a 2WG9 (payed the difference of course). This is a 2-way, 4-button remote; an LED blinks green if the car received the transmission, and it blinks red if the car never replied. It also makes an audible beep. After a remote start, it also blinks the LED and beeps once the car physically started; pretty cool little remotes actually. Range is VERY impressive on these, they call it "super heterodyne" technology, which is a marketing scheme for FM, frequency modulation. The range is very impressive, more than a 1/4 mile parking AND through the far end of my very large work building. It is very seldom that the remote does not reach, and the notification that the car started is nice.
My review of the system: Although it works, and I am happy I did it, it is an "aftermarket" product. That means that the finer points, attention to detail, reliability is FAR inferior to OEM. I am an engineer so it's my job to find errors/flaws and i found a few annoying things. Honestly it is disappointing that one of the best brands (or such is the consensus on forums that compustar is good) is this flaky. With just a little more effort from compustar, literally like 3-4 more lines of code this thing would be impressive. The compustar module has a LOT of configurations/options, however you pretty much need a configuration tool to set them; maybe a professional installer would be able to find the right configurations to get past some of my problems, flaws but i am unwilling to buy that programmer for a 1-time use. After that rant i have to repeat that I am happy I did the install, the range on the remotes is VERY impressive.
Hope this helps someone.
I forgot to check back on this post for a while. Figured I'd provide an upgrade:
It turns out that the 1WG6 remotes were inadequate for my expectations. It had better range than the OEM key fob, but that doesn't say much. It wouldn't reach across the VERY large parking lot at work, we're talking maybe 1/4 mile here, it also didn't do very well in transmitting through larger buildings, like at the gym.
My e-bay seller let me upgrade to a 2WG9 (payed the difference of course). This is a 2-way, 4-button remote; an LED blinks green if the car received the transmission, and it blinks red if the car never replied. It also makes an audible beep. After a remote start, it also blinks the LED and beeps once the car physically started; pretty cool little remotes actually. Range is VERY impressive on these, they call it "super heterodyne" technology, which is a marketing scheme for FM, frequency modulation. The range is very impressive, more than a 1/4 mile parking AND through the far end of my very large work building. It is very seldom that the remote does not reach, and the notification that the car started is nice.
My review of the system: Although it works, and I am happy I did it, it is an "aftermarket" product. That means that the finer points, attention to detail, reliability is FAR inferior to OEM. I am an engineer so it's my job to find errors/flaws and i found a few annoying things. Honestly it is disappointing that one of the best brands (or such is the consensus on forums that compustar is good) is this flaky. With just a little more effort from compustar, literally like 3-4 more lines of code this thing would be impressive. The compustar module has a LOT of configurations/options, however you pretty much need a configuration tool to set them; maybe a professional installer would be able to find the right configurations to get past some of my problems, flaws but i am unwilling to buy that programmer for a 1-time use. After that rant i have to repeat that I am happy I did the install, the range on the remotes is VERY impressive.
Hope this helps someone.
06-22-2014, 02:02 PM
#5
New Member
Thread Starter
I have a Compustar remote start in my SC. It was put in by the original owner and no one at the dealership I bought it at was able to tell me how it works. Imagine my surprise the first time I stumbled upon the activation mode for my car and it kept running after I pulled my key from the ignition. I only use it in the winter but I like it.
By the way with mine the radio stays on for 20 minutes or so when in auto start mode unless I turn the radio off manually. Is yours the same or is there a way to program it so the radio shuts off with the car when in remote start mode?
By the way with mine the radio stays on for 20 minutes or so when in auto start mode unless I turn the radio off manually. Is yours the same or is there a way to program it so the radio shuts off with the car when in remote start mode?
Hope you get to read this post, It sounds like you are missing the connection with the "RAP shutdown" wire i talked about in my original post towards the end. Depending on your setup whether you have the AL blade or not, you may also need the Diode that i talk about in the original post towards the end. I don't think think this is a configurable option to fix this, although remember I am not a professional installer. You could find a local Compustar installer, and ask them their opinion, I found one near me, they were very friendly and configured an option in my module for free since they have the programming tool (about 1 minute in vehicle). If you are interested in fixing this PM me, or post here, i'm willing to try to learn your setup and try to help you troubleshoot if you want to fix it. if you're in michigan i can work on it.
10-21-2015, 10:57 PM
#7
New Member
Sorry to revive thread guys but I have a viper 5706v remote start security and can't figure out where the starter input goes? Got the dual relay bull crap wired up with the diodes and resistors into the ignition. I'm stuck and don't want to fry my car. I'm mecp basic certified so I'm not afraid of wires or anything. Maybe I'm just stressed out about doing it away from a shop and adequate resources
04-01-2021, 09:37 PM
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