2.0 LNF Engine: How To: BNR turbo swap
03-11-2012, 12:40 PM
#1
How To: BNR turbo swap
well i just did the turbo swap yesterday so ill lay down any useful info for anyone doing it in the future.
sorry for the lack of pics, i worked non stop for 8 hours by myself so i was just too busy.
first off, before you put on your BNR, make sure you check the following:
the WGA does not need to be preloaded. all you have to do is make sure the wga is closed all the way, then after that tighten the bolt about 1/2-1 turn, that is all it needs. if not, your turbo will not like you.
ENSURE that you have NEW gaskets for the O2 housing and the exhaust manifold (pictured here). i will get the part numbers for those later and update the thread then.
alright, lets get started on getting the stocker off.
first, you want to remove your intake and charge piping, pretty self explanatory/ easy.
next, go under the car and remove your downpipe. i chose to leave the O2 sensor in the downpipe and just disconnect the plug to it. makes life a little easier.
next, I HIGHLY recommend removing the rear trans mount. it gives you so much more room that you will NEED.
alright, now we have some obstacles in the way of the turbo. the heat shield and the turbo support bracket.
the turbo support bracket is pretty simple to take off. just remove a few nuts and wiggle it around till you get it loose.
when you get to the heat shield, there are about 3 10mm bolts on the left side. they arent the easiest to spot, but theyre there.
after you loosen the bottom heat shield (one covering O2 housing) you have to play with it (bending it, etc) till you can remove it. if you disconnect the primary O2 sensor, you wont have to remove it to take off the heat shield.
ok, now that we have the heat shield and turbo support bracket off, time to remove the oil/coolant lines.
there is not much room to get to them, but its fairly simple to remove the oil/coolant lines on the stock turbo. MAKE SURE YOU DRAIN THE COOLANT, or you will be taking a coolant shower when you remove the oil/ coolant lines. the banjo bolts on the stock turbo are 18mm.
once those are removed, there will be a line on the back left side of the valve cover that goes to the turbo (assuming you are facing the engine bay from the front of the car).
to remove this line, there is a 10mm bolt where it connects to the turbo. take off that bolt and then pry it out of the turbo. its is in there pretty good but it does come out. you dont have to reconnect this line to anything after the turbo swap. idk what to do with it, however.
now that we have all the oil/ coolant lines disconnected, time to remove the turbo itself.
first, UNPLUG the wire that connects to the stock boost controller (that little black box on the stock turbo)
then remove the 4 nuts that mount the turbo onto the turbo manifold. you should be able to move the turbo around after this, but not remove it quite yet because the O2 housing is in the way.
the 4 nuts on the O2 housing are fairly simple to reach with the turbo not mounted. once you get the O2 housing you can then remove both that and the turbo from under the car.
with the stocker off you can now set up the vacuum lines and all on the BNR. on the stock boost controller, the top port goes to the wga, and one of the side ports go to the bronze nipple on the compressor housing. the other side you can just leave open, DO NOT CAP IT. THE PORT CLOSEST TO THE PLUG IS WHERE THE BOOST SOURCE GOES. THE WAY IT IS IN THE PICTURE BELOW IS WRONG!!! the other side is left open. i found out the hard way. lol. couldnt boost past 15psi, now i can
installing the BNR is pretty much reverse process except the oil/coolant lines.
the oil/coolant lines on this thing are a real PITA to get.
the oil drain line is actually simple. push it up to where it goes, thread the nuts on the studs, tighten them on and its good to go. no bending or anything required.
the coolant drain line is on the back side of the turbo so you need to get it from the bottom. this one is really not that hard either, you just have to push up on it decently hard until you get the banjo bolt threaded in the hole. the hole is a little high so it might take a minute to get it in but its not too bad.
these next 2 lines require some bending and are HARD.
the coolant feed line is located on the front of the BNR and when you get to that point, you will see that it does not line up whatsoever. on the stock turbo, the coolant feed is facing up. on the BNR, its facing to the front of the car, with very little room...
heres how i routed it. lots of bending and some twisting.
the oil feed line isnt too bad, you just have to bend and twist it a little to make the hole line up. the fitting looks like its too big to fit on but it does, youl see what i mean.
now after you get those headaches out of the way, just bolt up the turbo!
once you have all that done, the rest is simple, just bolt back on all the stuff you took off eariler (downpipe, rear trans mount, intake, etc)
i have a k&n SRI and the BNR changed the positioning a little bit, but it still fits fine. i had a injen hotside pipe, and well its probably not the best hotside to use with the BNR due to its positioning. i had to get some longer couplers and all to make it fit, looks ghetto.
now go get tuned!
sorry for the lack of pics, i worked non stop for 8 hours by myself so i was just too busy.
first off, before you put on your BNR, make sure you check the following:
the WGA does not need to be preloaded. all you have to do is make sure the wga is closed all the way, then after that tighten the bolt about 1/2-1 turn, that is all it needs. if not, your turbo will not like you.
ENSURE that you have NEW gaskets for the O2 housing and the exhaust manifold (pictured here). i will get the part numbers for those later and update the thread then.
alright, lets get started on getting the stocker off.
first, you want to remove your intake and charge piping, pretty self explanatory/ easy.
next, go under the car and remove your downpipe. i chose to leave the O2 sensor in the downpipe and just disconnect the plug to it. makes life a little easier.
next, I HIGHLY recommend removing the rear trans mount. it gives you so much more room that you will NEED.
alright, now we have some obstacles in the way of the turbo. the heat shield and the turbo support bracket.
the turbo support bracket is pretty simple to take off. just remove a few nuts and wiggle it around till you get it loose.
when you get to the heat shield, there are about 3 10mm bolts on the left side. they arent the easiest to spot, but theyre there.
after you loosen the bottom heat shield (one covering O2 housing) you have to play with it (bending it, etc) till you can remove it. if you disconnect the primary O2 sensor, you wont have to remove it to take off the heat shield.
ok, now that we have the heat shield and turbo support bracket off, time to remove the oil/coolant lines.
there is not much room to get to them, but its fairly simple to remove the oil/coolant lines on the stock turbo. MAKE SURE YOU DRAIN THE COOLANT, or you will be taking a coolant shower when you remove the oil/ coolant lines. the banjo bolts on the stock turbo are 18mm.
once those are removed, there will be a line on the back left side of the valve cover that goes to the turbo (assuming you are facing the engine bay from the front of the car).
to remove this line, there is a 10mm bolt where it connects to the turbo. take off that bolt and then pry it out of the turbo. its is in there pretty good but it does come out. you dont have to reconnect this line to anything after the turbo swap. idk what to do with it, however.
now that we have all the oil/ coolant lines disconnected, time to remove the turbo itself.
first, UNPLUG the wire that connects to the stock boost controller (that little black box on the stock turbo)
then remove the 4 nuts that mount the turbo onto the turbo manifold. you should be able to move the turbo around after this, but not remove it quite yet because the O2 housing is in the way.
the 4 nuts on the O2 housing are fairly simple to reach with the turbo not mounted. once you get the O2 housing you can then remove both that and the turbo from under the car.
with the stocker off you can now set up the vacuum lines and all on the BNR. on the stock boost controller, the top port goes to the wga, and one of the side ports go to the bronze nipple on the compressor housing. the other side you can just leave open, DO NOT CAP IT. THE PORT CLOSEST TO THE PLUG IS WHERE THE BOOST SOURCE GOES. THE WAY IT IS IN THE PICTURE BELOW IS WRONG!!! the other side is left open. i found out the hard way. lol. couldnt boost past 15psi, now i can
installing the BNR is pretty much reverse process except the oil/coolant lines.
the oil/coolant lines on this thing are a real PITA to get.
the oil drain line is actually simple. push it up to where it goes, thread the nuts on the studs, tighten them on and its good to go. no bending or anything required.
the coolant drain line is on the back side of the turbo so you need to get it from the bottom. this one is really not that hard either, you just have to push up on it decently hard until you get the banjo bolt threaded in the hole. the hole is a little high so it might take a minute to get it in but its not too bad.
these next 2 lines require some bending and are HARD.
the coolant feed line is located on the front of the BNR and when you get to that point, you will see that it does not line up whatsoever. on the stock turbo, the coolant feed is facing up. on the BNR, its facing to the front of the car, with very little room...
heres how i routed it. lots of bending and some twisting.
the oil feed line isnt too bad, you just have to bend and twist it a little to make the hole line up. the fitting looks like its too big to fit on but it does, youl see what i mean.
now after you get those headaches out of the way, just bolt up the turbo!
once you have all that done, the rest is simple, just bolt back on all the stuff you took off eariler (downpipe, rear trans mount, intake, etc)
i have a k&n SRI and the BNR changed the positioning a little bit, but it still fits fine. i had a injen hotside pipe, and well its probably not the best hotside to use with the BNR due to its positioning. i had to get some longer couplers and all to make it fit, looks ghetto.
now go get tuned!
Last edited by Dart_SI; 03-13-2012 at 09:07 PM.
03-12-2012, 12:13 PM
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The line that you said goes from the valve cover to the turbo.... You said here that you didn't connect it to anything? I thought I read in another post that you T'd it into the BOV recirc line?
an does the dp still bolt back in fine?
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