LNF ONLY: it may not have skipped; after you set up everything, assuming you have the vvt sprocket holding tool, with the cam gears in place and the crank gear white dimple at 5 o clock, you wrap the chain around the inlet cam sprocket, down to the crank sprocket, and then up to the exhaust sprocket, and as you install the chain onto the exhaust sprocket the cam gear moves to 6 clock and its easy to think you are off a tooth. It is unusual for the chain to skip teeth once everything is installed. NOTE sprocket= gear lol

 

Ah ok I get it now thanks

 

I didnt mention but to be clear, the colored links are on the chain and roughly in place. first colored link to intake sprocket.,t, check. next colored link to crank sprocket, aligned with dimple, pre set at 5 oclock check. now up to the exhaust sprocket which is held in place by the service tool. you have to bring the chain up and in order to install it and line it up with the colored link to the VVT mark.As you do so, the crank sprocket will move clockwise check. all colored links are now lined up but the crank is no longer at 5 oclock but the dimple/colored link are still in alignment.

now, if you want to rotate the whole thing to check alignement to the colored links, be prepared to rotate it 5730803 million revolutions. so dont. Put the beige tensioner blade in place, the side tensioner in, and carry on. lol thats why the tool makes it so easy, sort of.

 

Wow you made this super simple! Thank you sir!!! A how to within a how to

 

Just read this thread over and have a few questions since everyone seems to have their own opinion. I have a 2006 SS/SC and want to replace the tensioner with the new style tensioner here.

Should I even bother following the OP's procedure or just "plug n play" it?

 

Not to be a smartass, or .. well.. on second thought, to be a smartass....

The heading/Titlde is "2.0 LSJ Engine" so . . . . . . .

Anyone have an LNF engine inside their LSJ?

 

plug and play and be happy.

 

Did this about 2 minutes ago, removed the valve cover and zip tied the cams, put the new one it, had it set before I threaded it, threaded it and torqued and replaced everything, now... I started it and heard a hiss, rpms jumped to 2300 when started, turned off immediately. Is this normal?

 

impossible to say what you have done or what has happened. I am not sure what you expected to acheive by zip tieing the cams; its all so incredible to me, that what, to us in the automotive repair industry, is a simple operation, becomes a night mare for so many people over the internet. Sad for you.

 

U zip tie the cams and the chains together so u don't skip your timing do you not? That's what he expected out of that

 

Disregard my ******* post haha I had the brake booster unplugged. Instantly freaked out, cause this job could have caused a lot problems.

 

As you were! Carry on.

 

R&R the bolt, that's all you need to do.

 

What's the torque rating on the revised tensioner? Finally ordered it this morning.

 

56

 

Got my tensioner in the mail today. Probably going to put it in tomorrow.

 

Just replaced the tensioner. I had to purchase a 25" breaker bar and a 32mm 6pt socket from Harbor Freight because I couldn't get enough leverage with my socket wrench and the 12pt socket started to round off the nut. It broke loose in 2 seconds and came out in 30 seconds. Put the new one in, German torqued it and started up the car. No CELs and runs fine.

 

I'm beating my head against the wall. I started my tensioner replacement last night and my car is still apart.

I CAN NOT get the new tensioner to screw in. I disassembled my old one and removed the guts just to see if the body would screw back in. Yep, no problems so the threads are OK.

Trying to remove the cam cover to see if I can tell what is going on. How the hell do you remove that braided steel hose that runs from the cam cover down to the turbo? I have the fuel line disconnects, but they will not work on this hose.

 

you dont. U have to disconnect it at the turbo, you have an LNF. 10 mm socket on a 6.0 mm bolt. But you dont need to do that. Just put load on the tensioner pushing it in to start the threads. I use a piece of wood to lever on it and an open end wrench to start it. then go to socket and torque. good luck

 

Yeah I spent 4 hours pushing on that sucker with all sorts of things. That was never going to work.

I got the cam cover off, wiggled the guide with a screwdriver and was able to get the tensioner threaded. There was slack between the cam sprockets I moved the intake cam to take out the slack, reassembled, crossed my fingers and started the engine. Sounded like crap, but no codes. Once warmed up the sound settled down, but I'm not convinced that it sounds right. I'll find out tomorrow.

 

Stupid nut wont come out for the tensioner. Do i need to get this breaker bar thing?

 

To confirm... I have the new style, oil pressured tensioner. Am I correct in saying that I do not need to remove the C Clip, since it freely goes in and out as is? I can really just take it out of the box, lube it a bit with some oil, and install it?

 

Do yo have to replace the block to get the oil pressure tensioner to work? You know, so that it has oil galleys going to it?

 

wtf are you talking about

 

No, we have been tapping the oil pan and running a separate pump and lines so we don't have to change the block