Picked up the new style timing chain tensioner today at a local dealer for less than $60 dollars and followed this guide to install it. T'was a breeze. Hardest part was removing the valve cover and working around the fuel line since I didn't want to remove it. Appreciate the helpful thread! Engine smooth as silk now and you can only hear the injectors ticking away.

 

Been hearing odd idle noises lately and today no more than 7PSI boost and my car sounds like a diesel.

Going to limp it home and buy a tensioner.... just hope it didn't jump timing but I'm thinking it has.

 

Subaru or Diesel?

 

Unless the beige exhaust side guide is broken ( and it is metal backed) its unlikely the chain will jump on the sprocket teeth.

 

Hello, I've been looking for a new style tensioner and I believe I found one on Amazon for pretty good price. It looks like the new stype but not sure. I asked the dealer and he said he doesnt know. Can anyone tell?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0049Z8JNC/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmr2_1?qid=1412963505&sr=8-1-fkmr2&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70

 

Just finished replacing the old tensioner with the new one. Just followe ed this how-to n had no problems. I will say that when it was time to start it made the rattle noise for about 2 seconds, then went away. Thanks for the How-to!

 

Here's a helpful trick I picked up; When you install the new tensioner and whack it to get it to engage there is still slack in the chain. I personally didnt wanna start my car with this slack being present. So I put my car in 5th gear and pushed it forward maybe 6 inches and the chain snapped right into place! No more worries about whether it engaged or not!

 

I just pulled the valve cover and tied the sprockets together and to the chain for piece of mind. Only out a few cents worth of zip ties. I needed to replace a weeping valve cover gasket anyways lol. Also pulled the plugs and rolled it over when finished and lined it the marks on the chain with the cams just for giggles took quite a few revolutions I will say that lol no biggie. Plus it put the tension back in the assy. By rolling it over. Seems to be quieter now. Piece of mind also.

 

You should always rotate the engine a rev or two to make sure it spins freely and everything is lined up.

Unless you totally removed the chain, rotating the engine a gazillion times to get the marks on the sprockets and chain to line up is a big waste of time, lol.

 

I know I was doing it more for myself getting familiar with the engine a bit. If I was doing this customer car wise I would not be doing that lol

 

Just wanted to give a big thanks to NCSU Slobalt for an awesome write up on how to replace a timing chain tensioner. Mine took a **** the other day and I was able to get a new one and a valve cover gasket for under 90 buck. Took less than an hour to install. Thanks again!!

 

How to change Lnf tensioner?

1- chock car. Put in neutral.
2- Remove old!
3- install new set tensioner.
4- start car ??????

Is this THE RIGHT WAY?

Just want to clarify as this thread inst entirely clear!

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Bump? The above question?

Is it pretty much a 10 minute job providing you can break the old tensioner out easy?

 

Break it out? Just unscrew it dude. Why not just pull the valve cover to see how everything is doing under there? It's really easy lol

 

Cuz you gotta pull numerous pieces out of the way .... Including removing the turbo o oil feed line.
And if I was to pull the cover, would the cams stay in place with no movement?

 

The valve cover is exactly what its name is, just a cover. Its not integrated with holding the cams.

 

Great .... Well now that my other car is out of the way I can start fiddling with my TC.

how to take the oil feed line off? That is the question. Hmmmn.
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Why are you taking the oil feed line off? There is a pcv line that goes from the vlave cover to the inlet side of the turbo. If thats what youre talking about its a 10mm bolt on the turbo side then twist and pull, just make sure when you reinstall you put some oil on the oring or it will likely rip.

 

For anyone that checks this thread, I had the same exact problem, 7psi, loss of power, sounded horrible. My tensioner was seized when I pulled it and a new one fixed everything somehow. No timing jumped thankfully.

 

So this guarantees that the bottom of the chain on the crank sprocket won't jump?