tru2nrtt777

iTrader: (1)

Depending on the space behind your endlink you may be able to fit locking plyers between the endlink and the sway bar and between the endlink and the strut tab. Here is a link to my how to although not as in depth as this one: Clickyhttps://www.cobaltss.net/forums/how-...s-pics-271421/

Oh and to whoever was talking about them being thicker and stiffer, check my link above. I have a direct comparison.

arsenal21

So I installed these today. No way could this be done with hand tools without it being a complete pain in the ass.

I didn't go with Moog but went with driveworks for 1/2 the cost of the Moogs. Seem to be built with just as good quality from what I can tell. They have the greaseable zirks also. Here's a link to the ones I bought.

Buy Driveworks Sway Bar Link Kit DW-K750012 at Advance Auto Parts

css9450

True that. I wound up chewing mine up pretty bad with vise grips. The sad part was - I was just removing them to replace my struts. Fortunately I used the occasion to install new links at the same time since there was no way they were re-usable with the rubber boots torn off and the shaft all chewed up.

The problem , I believe, is that the nuts used on the OEM links are thread-deformed, meaning once they're on, they won't come off. Your tie rod ends are the same way. Rather than install a castle nut and a cotter pin, they just used these things.

arsenal21

Yeah I completely roached a pair of vice grips. I'm wondering if using a Pickle Fork would work even better getting in there and keeping those from spinning instead of vice grips. I don't have one but think that it would work even better.

I also did as others mentioned. I got the top bolts off on each side, then I rocked the endlink until they simply popped out of the socket. This will give you a an easier option to grip the bolts. When trying to remove them.

css9450

If anyone ever wondered, the Moogs do eventually wear out and rattle like the stock ones do.

I had to replace my pair of Moog endlinks which had probably close to 90,000 miles on them. They were rattling bad! Once off the car, it was obvious that it was the lower joint on each side that had gone bad. Maybe they would have lasted longer if I greased them more often but I remember the first time I tried to grease them, the little grease zerk got stuck in my grease gun and pulled out of the endlink! Its just threaded into a sheetmetal cap, so its not in there real strong. I never tried greasing them again.

The old worn out Moogs were just as bad to remove as the factory endlinks were. For the lower nut, I had to use a torch to heat it for about ten minutes and then it only budged after beating on the wrench with a sledgehammer. Up on a lift, there'd be much more room for a breaker bar and more leverage, but I was working on jackstands.

It rides like a new car now! No more rattles.

tomj77

iTrader: (2)

I installed moog end links, took away a lot of the knock buy still knocked. don't think I torqued em to spec. did what the gm ones should be 48, and 59. but I believe I went over a bit. anyway, still knocks just not as much, powell helped me trouble shoot, disconnected one end link on bottom and went for ride, knock gone. so moog end links are a fail for me, gonna get the ones powell sells, the expensive, but built tough, not this cheap garbage gm and moog sell.

bmartz1991

iTrader: (35)

Powell sells end links? Power grid?

CudaJoe

iTrader: (1)

how tight should the links be bolted on? 80-100 ft-lbs? for reference the wheel lug nut torque specs are 100 ft-lbs.

CudaJoe

iTrader: (1)

nm my post thanks.

Pasierbek

Installed these yesterday. Wow they feel amazing! (or maybe it's just cause my end links were already bad enough lol). Yes, installing them takes a bit longer with hand tools and it's no walk in the park but it can be done. Remember to clamp down hard on the thin nut behind the sway bar end or strut tower bracket and you'll stop the bolt from spinning. After installing them and a nice test ride, my ride harshness disappeared. Good product (so far).

SS Jimbo

What is the thread size of the zerk fitting on the Moog 750012? I need to replace one of mine.
Thanks!