Appearance: HOW TO: Flip Trunk
#54
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ok let me see if i can possibly explain this without having to go and manipulate pics with arrows and whatnot. i am horrible at explaining this stuff....much easier to just show people.
in pic one... if you straighten the trunk out more, those two hinges get closer together, and the one arm that is shown with the bolt in it, will actually crisscross under the other...we removed the bolt and then once the arms were crisscrossed, that one arm with the bolt in it will actually be on the other side and we just replaced the bolt back into the original hole and how you cant bend the trunk , it will stay straight out.
that probably made no sense at all.
in pic one... if you straighten the trunk out more, those two hinges get closer together, and the one arm that is shown with the bolt in it, will actually crisscross under the other...we removed the bolt and then once the arms were crisscrossed, that one arm with the bolt in it will actually be on the other side and we just replaced the bolt back into the original hole and how you cant bend the trunk , it will stay straight out.
that probably made no sense at all.
#56
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I dont like the flip trunk at all.Seems pointless and it looks like the trunk lid is broken.Though i have to say the flip trunk on the civic looks pretty sick.
#60
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I did this mod tonight in about 20 minutes.
A few things.
There is no need to go through all the work of removing the trunk or brackets and bringing anything into your workshop. You also don't need a grinder at all and in fact a grinder makes too much of a mess.
I opened the trunk in the driveway, layed a couple of rags in the rain channel to catch any metal shavings, and used a small drill bit to drill a pilot hole into the rivet.
I then changed over to a 3/8" bit, and drilled the rivet again until the smaller flat "head" of the rivet (facing the outside of the trunk) was gone.
Using a hammer and punch, I punched the rivets out. Total time, 8 minutes.
The inner bracket has a 1/2" hole from the factory in it, so I drilled the outside arm to 1/2" and used a 1/2" x 1 1/2" bolt in the hole. Using that size bolts fills the stock hole tightly so you have no slop or play and there is no rattle or road noise. Another 7 minutes, and 5 minutes for clean up.
2 problems I ran into.
1) stock wiring was keeping the trunk from extending far enough out. I had to pull the wiring out if its mounts in a few locations to free up enough slack to let it move.
2) the trunk struts hit a piece of the trunk brackets before it swings out far enough to support the trunk using the method that Donna described, keeping it from moving far enough for my liking.
I didn't have time tonight, because I wasn't expecting that hangup, but I'll use a dremel tool or cutoff wheel to trim the piece of bracket that is getting in the way and then I think I'll be all set.
A few things.
There is no need to go through all the work of removing the trunk or brackets and bringing anything into your workshop. You also don't need a grinder at all and in fact a grinder makes too much of a mess.
I opened the trunk in the driveway, layed a couple of rags in the rain channel to catch any metal shavings, and used a small drill bit to drill a pilot hole into the rivet.
I then changed over to a 3/8" bit, and drilled the rivet again until the smaller flat "head" of the rivet (facing the outside of the trunk) was gone.
Using a hammer and punch, I punched the rivets out. Total time, 8 minutes.
The inner bracket has a 1/2" hole from the factory in it, so I drilled the outside arm to 1/2" and used a 1/2" x 1 1/2" bolt in the hole. Using that size bolts fills the stock hole tightly so you have no slop or play and there is no rattle or road noise. Another 7 minutes, and 5 minutes for clean up.
2 problems I ran into.
1) stock wiring was keeping the trunk from extending far enough out. I had to pull the wiring out if its mounts in a few locations to free up enough slack to let it move.
2) the trunk struts hit a piece of the trunk brackets before it swings out far enough to support the trunk using the method that Donna described, keeping it from moving far enough for my liking.
I didn't have time tonight, because I wasn't expecting that hangup, but I'll use a dremel tool or cutoff wheel to trim the piece of bracket that is getting in the way and then I think I'll be all set.
#61
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Ok,
I finally was able to get some time to do this. The other night while up at Mkulrey's, I worked on Moepwrs and got his done. Unfortunately, we didn't have easy access to a cutoff wheel and the dremel just wasnt powerful enough, so we ended up using a 6" angle grinder to cut the excess off the brackets to allow the trunk to come all the way out.
The grinder being so large makes it hard to do a real clean job and it's a pain to use, so it took us about 2 hours to get it done start to finish.
Here is Moepwrs car.
Here is my car, with the mod posted by the OP. As you can see, without taking extra steps to modify the bracketry, the trunk will NOT fully extend.
Here are the brackets that you need to trim the edges off of, after I trimmed and repainted them.
And here is the finished product on mine. I used a cutoff wheel and made 3 quick cuts and it was way easier than struggling with a grinder. Took me 15 minutes to finish, so now that I've done it a couple of times, I could do this mod from start to finish in about 30 minutes plus painting.
Tools needed:
Drill
1/2" bit
3/8ths bit
some smaller bit for pilot hole
air powered or electric cutoff wheel
hammer
punch (or crappy phillips screwdriver lol )
flat screwdriver (to pull struts)
rags and paint
You will also need (2) 1/2" x 1 1/2" bolts, with nylon washers and nuts, and (2) 3/8" x 1 1/2" bolts (to keep the trunk supported in the fully extended position)
Hope that helps!
I finally was able to get some time to do this. The other night while up at Mkulrey's, I worked on Moepwrs and got his done. Unfortunately, we didn't have easy access to a cutoff wheel and the dremel just wasnt powerful enough, so we ended up using a 6" angle grinder to cut the excess off the brackets to allow the trunk to come all the way out.
The grinder being so large makes it hard to do a real clean job and it's a pain to use, so it took us about 2 hours to get it done start to finish.
Here is Moepwrs car.
Here is my car, with the mod posted by the OP. As you can see, without taking extra steps to modify the bracketry, the trunk will NOT fully extend.
Here are the brackets that you need to trim the edges off of, after I trimmed and repainted them.
And here is the finished product on mine. I used a cutoff wheel and made 3 quick cuts and it was way easier than struggling with a grinder. Took me 15 minutes to finish, so now that I've done it a couple of times, I could do this mod from start to finish in about 30 minutes plus painting.
Tools needed:
Drill
1/2" bit
3/8ths bit
some smaller bit for pilot hole
air powered or electric cutoff wheel
hammer
punch (or crappy phillips screwdriver lol )
flat screwdriver (to pull struts)
rags and paint
You will also need (2) 1/2" x 1 1/2" bolts, with nylon washers and nuts, and (2) 3/8" x 1 1/2" bolts (to keep the trunk supported in the fully extended position)
Hope that helps!
#63
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nice but personaly i would use a pin with a cottar pin through the end of it instead of the nut and bolt combo just for easier conversion from flip to normal. just incase u r thinking just keep the nuts finger tight they probably loosen them selvs off espically if u have a big system.
nice but personaly i would use a pin with a cottar pin through the end of it instead of the nut and bolt combo just for easier conversion from flip to normal. just incase u r thinking just keep the nuts finger tight they probably loosen them selvs off espically if u have a big system.
nice but personaly i would use a pin with a cottar pin through the end of it instead of the nut and bolt combo just for easier conversion from flip to normal. just incase u r thinking just keep the nuts finger tight they probably loosen them selvs off espically if u have a big system.
Last edited by bandit; 07-25-2009 at 03:28 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#66
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nice but personaly i would use a pin with a cottar pin through the end of it instead of the nut and bolt combo just for easier conversion from flip to normal. just incase u r thinking just keep the nuts finger tight they probably loosen them selvs off espically if u have a big system.
nice but personaly i would use a pin with a cottar pin through the end of it instead of the nut and bolt combo just for easier conversion from flip to normal. just incase u r thinking just keep the nuts finger tight they probably loosen them selvs off espically if u have a big system.
nice but personaly i would use a pin with a cottar pin through the end of it instead of the nut and bolt combo just for easier conversion from flip to normal. just incase u r thinking just keep the nuts finger tight they probably loosen them selvs off espically if u have a big system.
#69
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#71
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You can use lock nuts but you'll have to use a tool every time you flip.
I use nylon washers on both sides (so 2 per bolt) and that keeps it fairly tight.
I retighten them by hand about every 3rd time I open the trunk.
#75
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