Interior: How to: Install an Infinity Basslink
How to: Install an Infinity Basslink
Tools you will need:
Ratchet with extension
10mm deep socket and 8mm socket
Drill with small drill bit and Phillips driver bit
Philips screw driver
Wire Stripper / Crimper
Items you will need:
Infinity Basslink (Duh)
About 10 feet of power wire
About 6 feet of grounding wire
Fuse holder and fuse
2 Ring Terminals (Link)
2 Spade Terminals (Link)
4 butt connectors
This How-to assumes that you have all the accessories that came with the Basslink. Throughout the How-to I will tell you what I have done, just make adjustments as you see necessary. Install was done on a 07 SS/SC with completly stock stereo.
Now the manual suggests at least 12 gauge wires for the install, I used 8 gauge. The manual also suggests that you use a 25amp fuse, I used a 60amp. Before you begin you will want to choose a spot for the Basslink. I put mine where the stock one was, but its all user preference.
Make sure that you turn the bass level on your head unit all the way down before installation.
1 – Remove the stock sub there are 4 10mm nuts holding it onto the car. Once removed, unclip the wire harness.
2 – Unscrew the 8 Philips screws on the front and 8mm bolt on the back holding the sub in the enclosure.
3 – Pull the sub out and cut the wires from both sides of the sub and pull the wires out of the enclosure. Put the wire harness aside.
4 – Strip one end of the power wire and crimp on a ring connector. Do the same for the ground wire.
5 – Measure about a foot and cut the cable. Strip both ends where you cut the cable and install your fuse holder. DO NOT install your fuse at this point.
6 – Lift up the floor carpet to expose the battery. Pop open the red cover on the positive battery post. Hook your power cable on the post here and use one of the 4 10mm nuts you pulled off the car to secure it.
7 – Run your power cable to your intended mounting spot for the Basslink, hiding the cable as you go.
8 – Attach the ground cable to the chassis. I used one of the mounting bolts for the stock subs. Secure it with one of the 10mm nuts previously removed. Run the cable to the mounting spot.
9 – Run the provided phone cable from the mounting spot to where you want the remote bass control, hiding the cables as you go. I found you don’t have to remove the back seats or paneling to run this wire, as it’s small and flat.
10 – Infinity has provided 2 high level inputs. You only need to use one. Grab a high level input wire harness and measure from the intended mounting spot, to the stock sub connector. Cut the wire to the desired length and strip back the 4 wires and crimp the 4 butt connectors on.
11 – Remember the wire harness that we set aside in step 3? Well grab that and strip back the 4 ends. Crimp the other end of the butt connector on the wires making sure that both black wires go to the striped wires and red wires go to the solid color wire. Make sure you keep the pairs together don’t cross. This will be your end result.
12 – Snap the two vertical mounting feet on the bottom of the Basslink. Insert the provided bolt through the hole on the foot and tighten.
13 – Snap one horizontal mounting foot to the top right of the Basslink. Insert the provided bolt through the hole on the foot and tighten.
14 – Place the Basslink in the desired location and using your drill, drill a hole where the vertical mounting bracket attaches to the car (Top side). Then screw into place.
15 – Connect the high level wire harness to the stock connector then into the Basslink.
16 – Cut the power wire to the desired length and crimp on a spade connector. Do the same for the ground wire.
17 – Screw the ground wire into the Basslink marked GND then screw the power wire into the B+
18 – Connect the remote bass line and turn down to min.
19 – RECHECK all your connections especially power. When you are satisfied that all connections are good, turn the gain control knobs all the way to the bottom and the other two to the middle.
20 – Put the fuse into the fuse holder and start your car. You will need to tune your new Basslink by adjusting the 3 knobs on the unit, the bass level in your head unit, and the remote bass control.
21 – Once you verify that everything is working cut a slit in your carpet and feed all the wires through the hole to clean up the install.
22 – Reinstall mesh and gym bag.
*Tips
- Each of the 4 bolts that holds the stock sub in has a washer behind the carpet, remove these or you will have massive rattling.
- After listening to it you may want to install a sheet of Dynamat (or other brand of sound deadening) behind the sub.
- Clean up the wires even more by wrapping them together in electrical tape, or put them into split loom.
Thats it... enjoy!
Ratchet with extension
10mm deep socket and 8mm socket
Drill with small drill bit and Phillips driver bit
Philips screw driver
Wire Stripper / Crimper
Items you will need:
Infinity Basslink (Duh)
About 10 feet of power wire
About 6 feet of grounding wire
Fuse holder and fuse
2 Ring Terminals (Link)
2 Spade Terminals (Link)
4 butt connectors
This How-to assumes that you have all the accessories that came with the Basslink. Throughout the How-to I will tell you what I have done, just make adjustments as you see necessary. Install was done on a 07 SS/SC with completly stock stereo.
Now the manual suggests at least 12 gauge wires for the install, I used 8 gauge. The manual also suggests that you use a 25amp fuse, I used a 60amp. Before you begin you will want to choose a spot for the Basslink. I put mine where the stock one was, but its all user preference.
Make sure that you turn the bass level on your head unit all the way down before installation.
1 – Remove the stock sub there are 4 10mm nuts holding it onto the car. Once removed, unclip the wire harness.
2 – Unscrew the 8 Philips screws on the front and 8mm bolt on the back holding the sub in the enclosure.
3 – Pull the sub out and cut the wires from both sides of the sub and pull the wires out of the enclosure. Put the wire harness aside.
4 – Strip one end of the power wire and crimp on a ring connector. Do the same for the ground wire.
5 – Measure about a foot and cut the cable. Strip both ends where you cut the cable and install your fuse holder. DO NOT install your fuse at this point.
6 – Lift up the floor carpet to expose the battery. Pop open the red cover on the positive battery post. Hook your power cable on the post here and use one of the 4 10mm nuts you pulled off the car to secure it.
7 – Run your power cable to your intended mounting spot for the Basslink, hiding the cable as you go.
8 – Attach the ground cable to the chassis. I used one of the mounting bolts for the stock subs. Secure it with one of the 10mm nuts previously removed. Run the cable to the mounting spot.
9 – Run the provided phone cable from the mounting spot to where you want the remote bass control, hiding the cables as you go. I found you don’t have to remove the back seats or paneling to run this wire, as it’s small and flat.
10 – Infinity has provided 2 high level inputs. You only need to use one. Grab a high level input wire harness and measure from the intended mounting spot, to the stock sub connector. Cut the wire to the desired length and strip back the 4 wires and crimp the 4 butt connectors on.
11 – Remember the wire harness that we set aside in step 3? Well grab that and strip back the 4 ends. Crimp the other end of the butt connector on the wires making sure that both black wires go to the striped wires and red wires go to the solid color wire. Make sure you keep the pairs together don’t cross. This will be your end result.
12 – Snap the two vertical mounting feet on the bottom of the Basslink. Insert the provided bolt through the hole on the foot and tighten.
13 – Snap one horizontal mounting foot to the top right of the Basslink. Insert the provided bolt through the hole on the foot and tighten.
14 – Place the Basslink in the desired location and using your drill, drill a hole where the vertical mounting bracket attaches to the car (Top side). Then screw into place.
15 – Connect the high level wire harness to the stock connector then into the Basslink.
16 – Cut the power wire to the desired length and crimp on a spade connector. Do the same for the ground wire.
17 – Screw the ground wire into the Basslink marked GND then screw the power wire into the B+
18 – Connect the remote bass line and turn down to min.
19 – RECHECK all your connections especially power. When you are satisfied that all connections are good, turn the gain control knobs all the way to the bottom and the other two to the middle.
20 – Put the fuse into the fuse holder and start your car. You will need to tune your new Basslink by adjusting the 3 knobs on the unit, the bass level in your head unit, and the remote bass control.
21 – Once you verify that everything is working cut a slit in your carpet and feed all the wires through the hole to clean up the install.
22 – Reinstall mesh and gym bag.
*Tips
- Each of the 4 bolts that holds the stock sub in has a washer behind the carpet, remove these or you will have massive rattling.
- After listening to it you may want to install a sheet of Dynamat (or other brand of sound deadening) behind the sub.
- Clean up the wires even more by wrapping them together in electrical tape, or put them into split loom.
Thats it... enjoy!
Last edited by TommyP; Oct 3, 2012 at 12:45 PM.
Not if you do it the way I did. The speaker level inputs will sense voltage on the speaker wires and the BassLink will turn itself on.
Ill see what I can do, but I dont think it will turn out the way you want.
Thanks! The less wires the better!
my bad.. sorry missed your post. Its quite a bit better then stock, definitely more bass, but you also have a small amount of control with the crossover in the sub. As I said before, if you were to use a signal processor to give you more control, it would be better. The Re-Q is on my xmas list. If I don't get it for xmas I will buy it shortly after. I will update when I get one...
IMO the Basslink is worth the $200 I paid for it.
For the record this was the stereo in my last car, so I'm a bit picky, I just wanted my trunk in this car:
IMO the Basslink is worth the $200 I paid for it.
For the record this was the stereo in my last car, so I'm a bit picky, I just wanted my trunk in this car:
The basslink is created to install to cars using the stock head unit. So it can be hooked up via rca jacks but is perfectly capable to splice into stock wires. i have one and I am very happy with it and my G5 was not equipped with sub
i might add one of these to my system..nice install how-to. just got done intalling a cleansweep, and kappa 6x9s working on the 6 1/2 kappas for the doors. by the sound of the 6x9s i might need some more bass.
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