And for whatever it's worth, for you t/c guys, I wouldn't bother doing this mod. Supposedly all you gain is the drop. The handling is actually better with stock springs. Remember, that is a world-class suspension. But hey, do whatever you like. lol.

 

sorry im not to familure with drops this would be my first one but wouldnt a drop mean that there is less air under the car and would help aerodynamics? and the amount of space in the wheel wells are just ugly but if im wrong and it dosnt help the handing then im all for performance > looks

 

this really help me to understand the cobalt suspension a lot more.

 

Generally, yes. Like on my car. It now looks sick, and handles great. But my suspension is only FE3. It's much better than the FE1, but not quite as stiff as the FE5. Yours is even better than the FE5. Apparently it's such a good set-up stock, that messing with it actually takes away from it. But I'll gladly swap you my FE3 stuff with Sportlines for your LNF components. lol. But honestly, that's just what I've heard from guys who have them. I mean, I think it was Motor Trend that said the cars suspension was world class. Sounds good enough for me.

 

thanks for the info u just saved me alot of work and money

 

I can't get the top stablizer bolt out on either side. Its rusted together on both sides, and spins freely when trying to do any work on it. My post:
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/suspension-67/

 

use an allen wrench and 21 mm deep socket while turning the deep socket with a strap wrench, while still on the car....

 

Even though I had an impact mine started to spin at some point of getting it loose. What we did was we decompress the spring a little to get pressure behind that bolt and we unscrewed it to the point where once I compress the spring I can just turn it once and take it off and the spring compressor held it there so I wasn't really worried about the springs going everywhere.

 

He isn't actually talking about the top strut nut. He's talking about the sway bar link nut. The problem was addressed in his other thread.

 

today was my first time ever installing springs and it was pretty damn simple once i figured it out, i rented the spring compressor and never even needed to use it. i did the front first. 2 bolts on the strut and 1 on the sway bar. then undid the 3 bolts up top and it fell right out. i took the impact gun and took the top bolt off put the new spring in and put the bolt back on. put it all back together and moved on to the other side. this is such an easy install. im not even gonna get into how easy the back was : )

 

I used the #1 springs avalible on "Cobalt-Addiction" for $139.99. They claim a 1.25" read drop and a .75" front drop.

Lets get to it!!!

-Block the front wheels and jack up the rear of the car and. Support it with Jack-Stands.
-SUPPORT (don't raise it up) the rear axel with the jack.
- Remove the lower bolt holding the rear strut on. Thiss one...


-Lower the rear axel slowly
-All you need to do to remove the rear springs is pull them out, they are NOT bolted in anywhere.


They will look like this... Assebled on the left, dissassembled on the right.


-Pull out the Bump Stops (cut if desired), and reinstall the bump stops on your new springs.
- Re-install the assembled springs in your car and use the jack to rais it up and line up the lower strut bolt.


-Replace wheels, lower car, remove blocks under front wheels, and release E-brake (this is when you will see the full drop).
-Here is a before and after of the rear wheel gap if you did it right...

Now the front!!
-Block the back wheels!!!!! & use E-brake.
-Remove this bolt...


-Take out the 2 bolts holding the lower part of the front strut on...


-Have someone support the strut while you remove these bolts...

This is the assembly you should pull out. (Compared to new spring)


-Use Spring Compressors (avalible at any auto parts store) to compress the springs...


-Once they are compressed enough. remove this bolt on the top...


-Pull the top plates off...


-If you want to cut the bump stop (recomended), it is located in the dist cover. Just push it out and cut it...


-Put the Spring compressers on the new springs and put it all back together...


-Re-install everything!!!
-Remove blocks from back wheels and E-brake.




[




I really like these and would recomend them to any one who wants a lower, daily driver. Big bumps suck at low speeds, but once you get on the freeway above 60mph it handles AWSOME, and I really think the ride is BETTER that stock. Corners REALLY sweet.

Please feel free to PM me with any questions.:

 

in all reality u dont even have to take off the back wheels to change the springs

 

I just got my sportlines last week, will be installing them this friday and I have a few questions...

Will an electric impact gun be enough, i don;t have air tools...?

when doing the rear springs, can you remove one spring and then the other or one at a time?

and when taking the front stuts off, do those one at a time?

and the bottom bolts on the strut that you have to hammer out, i noticed the op didn;t have anything supporting the rotor or anything, if you hammer out those bolts, everything will drop, shouldn;t you have something underneath to support it?

bump

 

1. Impact gun and socket set should be fine. Spring compressors of course

2. You can do both rear springs at the same time. jack stand up the back remove shock, then i had some1 step on my rotor to push it down so i could get stock spring out.

3. You can do them together, doesnt really make a difference. And yes you should have something to support the rotor after you remove the strut assembly.

 

i should be good then, thanks man

 

im scared to do mine lol

 

I just did my sportlines today I had the same problem all I did was take a grinder to a pair of vise-grip pliers on the jaw of them to make them thin enough to fit in between the back of the stabilizer joint and the steel it mounts through and clamped it very tight and used a socket and rachet on the nut side worked like a dream if u need picks of pliers modification let me know il be glad to help good luck buddy

 

yeah anytime u seperate the spindle from the shock u should get an alignment, a professional alignment not by eye LMAO :P

just be carefill with the link bolt u dont want to damage the boot on that link it will cause dirt to get inside and create wear/unwanted play sooner be carefull with an impact gun it should come off if it isnt rusted but if ur gonna vise grip the rear to keep it from spinning just be very carefull with that boot as u dont want to cause damage u just want to improve lower gravity while cornering, thats y we all drop our cars right??

 

To those who have posted up pics please check your links as most of them are no longer working.

 

nice write up

 

awsome ill be using this to install my B&G's this weekend ill get before and after pic

 

-Take out the 2 bolts holding the lower part of the front strut on...


Anybody got any suggestions for an electric impact that could handle this?

 

i used the impact gun at my local auto skills center and it worked just fine for me, no problems.

 

I don't have a place like that, any other suggestions?

 

Just did my springs this weekend. Those two bolts can be knocked out with a hammer. Just unscrew the nut so it's flush with the end of the bolt (to make sure you can get it back on afterwards), and pound away. Once you've knocked it all way over, take the nut off and just give the bolt a couple light taps and it's out. You may have to have someone hold the rotor / hub while you pull the bolts out.