hey so everything is connected but for
Some odd reason when my stereo is low
And I'm completly stopped as soon as I hit
The gas pedal the subs make a pop sound
Anyone know if this is normal? I have the amp
Connected witout a capcitor plz help

 

possible bad ground? check over the wires

 

whyd u put the line out there?

 

first of all great write up. im a former srt owner (let the roasting begin). i just bought my slowbalt ss/sc lol yesterday. i had a really nice alpine deck 1da-x001 that allowed me to hook up my iphone for tunes. i decided to keep the stock unit since it looks so clean and is a pretty nice unit to begin with. i have two rockford fosgate punch stage 2's powered by an 1800 watt amp. i spliced into the rear wiring and was not too thrilled about running in wires through the firewall seeing as how the battery is in the trunk and all. i disconnected the factory sub wiring harness and snipped the teal wire and used it as my remote. the amp powers off as soon as the key is out of the ignition and the door is opened. with the line out converter i have to tweak my amp some more but other than that it sounds relatively good.

oh yeah, i forgot to mention that i had to strip out the back seats just to get my box in the trunk. pain in my ass.

 

bump..im doing this right now

 

about to do this right this second

....

 

so can i just tap into the teal wire or do i have to cut it? i want to maintain the stock sub in addition to adding a sub

 

i went from the speaker on the left by the sub but once i added my sub to the system the other sub sounded like **** so i disconnected it and pulled it out but maybe its cus i added a 12"

 

For the remote wire, a lot of people do the fuse tap. The only problem I see is, what if there is a problem with whatever it is you fuse tapped and the fuse pops. There is a potential that the wire you shoved down there still bridges the connection and can cause further damage. I had a buddy of mine that was an installer at Best Buy tell me he used to fuse tap, but stopped becaused a car caught on fire. Any other suggestions on what to tap into other than the fuse box?

 

anyone know if they make a matching pioneer sub for the other side of the trunk to get a little more bump and still look stock?

 

does anyone know how to hook up a switch to turn on and off the amp when ever u want instead of having ur subs on all the time.

 

Is there any type of remote trigger out of the stock head unit? The teal wire on the stock sub wiring? When does it trigger? Only when the ignition is on?

My car didn't come with a factory sub, will it still have the wiring for one?

Also, how is the sound quality? I can't put an aftermarket head unit in my car, because I live in Flint (aka, one of the most dangerous cities in the country) 6 months out of the year for school, so I want as few reasons to break into my car... Does it sound the same as tapping into the factory sub wires?

Thanks

 

Sound Quality is some different overall and will be a bit queiter but wont really bother much to it

 

do the stock head unit have RCA jacks on it?

 

What does the line out converter look like or where can i find it?

Thanks in advance

 

i hooked mine up by using the stock sub in the trunk worked so much better and was way louder

 

That was really detailed...

 

I liked the writeup but there is one CRITICAL flaw. If you have the upgraded pioneer system with the subwoofer you have to tap into the hi-level wires running to the sub. The stock pioneer amp has crossovers in it and only sends midbass and treble to the rear speakers. All the low bass ONLY goes to the subwoofer and the front lower speakers.

If you tap into the 6x9s you will get really loud midbass and it will sound terrible since the pioneer system filters most of the low bass away from the 6x9's.

If you don't have the pioneer system with the stock sub you should be able to tap into either rear speaker as those are full range.

 

IF your factory head unit has sub control on it , i would recommend hooking your aftermarket equipment to your factory sub so you have some control over your aftemarket subs. If you do a fuse tap {which i would not recommend} make sure you fuse your amp-turn-on wire so if you fuse your tapped into blows your equipment and vehicle are protected. My advice pull you fuse box down and wire into the back of it. I recommend wiring into the windshield wiper fuse wire so you have a better connection and you wont have a wire hanging out of your fuse box, (yes you can cover it up , but you still know its there) The key to this is to do it right and clean the first time ,instead of doing it over and over and over! I fully recommend going with an aftermarket head unit, cleaner sound and bass control. And dont be a NOOB read up on voltage control with a CAPACITOR and OHMS.

OHM UNSTANDING

MONO AMP THAT WILL DO 1 OHM STABLE = ONE 1ohm stable sub or 2 4ohm dual voice coil subs

MONO AMP THAT WILL DO 2 OHM STABLE = 2 2ohm DVC wired at 4 ohms, (if you need a diagram let me know) or one 4 ohm dvc!

key thing to remember in ohms, 2+2=1 4+4=2 8+8=4 4ohm dvc can wire a 8ohms or 2 ohms! so on and so forth

 

Depends on if you wire in series or parallel.

 

Yeah i noticed i left that out but didnt want to put that on there and someone get all NOOBISH on me!

 

Ahh, gotchya.

 

im having trouble with this install, i had done this before but cant seem to make it work now

 

what kind of problems?

 

Sounds have no bass coming from the subs amp powers up and my 12s are good but can't seem to make it work