2.0 LNF Engine: How to make a boost leak tester
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How to make a boost leak tester
Havent seen any thing like this here....considering boost leak checks should be done routinely on a boosted car, thought I would show how to make a proper tester.
This is going to cover a leaker tester for my LNF w/ Hahn Charge pipes. Others will be similar, but some of the parts required would be different.
There are a few ways to check for boost leaks.
The first is to send the compressed air through intake, which then goes through the turbo, the hot piping, the intercooler, the cold charge piping and finally to your throttle body. I do not recommend this way, the added pressure inside your turbo when it is not properly sealed imho could cause issues. The turbos need to seal, your providing air pressure to areas that would nto normally see pressure.
The best imho and easiest on our cars due to design is to remove the hot charge piping from the turbo, and pressure all the areas that would normally see boost pressure.
I've used the word pressure a few times, so that means your going to need a source for air pressure, a foot pump might work, that is your call.
1) Air compressor (small one is all that is needed) that can do up to 25-30psi
2) Pipe Tape
3) 2" PVC Pipe w/ 1/2" threaded center (found out Lowes/Home Depot in the plumping section 2 1/4 would be more ideal if you can find it...those w/ other pipes will have different sizes more then likely)
4) 1/2 to 1/4 NPT reducer (basically the size reducer from your pvc pipe threads to 1/4..mine was 1/2)
5) 1/4 Male to Male fitting
6) 1/4" "T" fitting
7) 1/4" straight pipe (I used 4" cause they had it already threaded in that size)
8) 1/4" Pressure gauge
9) 1/4 shut-off valve
10) 1/4" NPT Regulator
11) Quick connect fitting for your compressors quick connect
12) 1/4 cap/plug (I use this to set the pressures on the regulator) You could design something so you do not have to remove this, but I was working with what I had
The finished product:
Now for the testing part!
REMOVE YOUR OIL CAP!
Set your compressor to a MAX allowed air pressure setting. This is more safety built into this. I set mine at 25psi...so if my regulator messed up, the max possible pressure is only 25psi.
Set your regulator pressures! Start low. This will identify large leaks. I started @ 6psi on my regulator. No pictures...but unscrew the adaptaer fitting and install a plug into the T fitting. Adjust the regulator for the needed pressuers. Not required, but I perfer safety over anything. I remember reading a post of some idiot kid who put 80psi into his lines testing for leaks...Do not be that person.
Install your charge piping adapater with adjusted regulators to your cars intercooler piping. I used the clamps and hose fittings from the piping itself. This eliminates the chance of having leaks after I have check the system. Only 1 connector is moved and resinstalled after the check is performed.
Connect your air source and open up the tester shut-off valve. At higher pressures you might her some air coming out of the oil cap, by having it off your not allowing pressure to build in the engine. If your chasing a small leak, have a spray bottle filled with liquid dawn and water mix to spray on the fittings. If they are leaking you will see bubbles forming. You should have no leaks in the system at any of the connectors.
This is going to cover a leaker tester for my LNF w/ Hahn Charge pipes. Others will be similar, but some of the parts required would be different.
There are a few ways to check for boost leaks.
The first is to send the compressed air through intake, which then goes through the turbo, the hot piping, the intercooler, the cold charge piping and finally to your throttle body. I do not recommend this way, the added pressure inside your turbo when it is not properly sealed imho could cause issues. The turbos need to seal, your providing air pressure to areas that would nto normally see pressure.
The best imho and easiest on our cars due to design is to remove the hot charge piping from the turbo, and pressure all the areas that would normally see boost pressure.
I've used the word pressure a few times, so that means your going to need a source for air pressure, a foot pump might work, that is your call.
1) Air compressor (small one is all that is needed) that can do up to 25-30psi
2) Pipe Tape
3) 2" PVC Pipe w/ 1/2" threaded center (found out Lowes/Home Depot in the plumping section 2 1/4 would be more ideal if you can find it...those w/ other pipes will have different sizes more then likely)
4) 1/2 to 1/4 NPT reducer (basically the size reducer from your pvc pipe threads to 1/4..mine was 1/2)
5) 1/4 Male to Male fitting
6) 1/4" "T" fitting
7) 1/4" straight pipe (I used 4" cause they had it already threaded in that size)
8) 1/4" Pressure gauge
9) 1/4 shut-off valve
10) 1/4" NPT Regulator
11) Quick connect fitting for your compressors quick connect
12) 1/4 cap/plug (I use this to set the pressures on the regulator) You could design something so you do not have to remove this, but I was working with what I had
The finished product:
Now for the testing part!
REMOVE YOUR OIL CAP!
Set your compressor to a MAX allowed air pressure setting. This is more safety built into this. I set mine at 25psi...so if my regulator messed up, the max possible pressure is only 25psi.
Set your regulator pressures! Start low. This will identify large leaks. I started @ 6psi on my regulator. No pictures...but unscrew the adaptaer fitting and install a plug into the T fitting. Adjust the regulator for the needed pressuers. Not required, but I perfer safety over anything. I remember reading a post of some idiot kid who put 80psi into his lines testing for leaks...Do not be that person.
Install your charge piping adapater with adjusted regulators to your cars intercooler piping. I used the clamps and hose fittings from the piping itself. This eliminates the chance of having leaks after I have check the system. Only 1 connector is moved and resinstalled after the check is performed.
Connect your air source and open up the tester shut-off valve. At higher pressures you might her some air coming out of the oil cap, by having it off your not allowing pressure to build in the engine. If your chasing a small leak, have a spray bottle filled with liquid dawn and water mix to spray on the fittings. If they are leaking you will see bubbles forming. You should have no leaks in the system at any of the connectors.
Last edited by TommyP; 05-17-2012 at 09:39 PM.
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