I finally felt bad stealing everyone elses ideas off here, so i figured id finally post something to help everyone out.

Parts Needed:

Meziere Pump
WP136S
Meziere Mini In-Line Electric Water Pumps - JEGS


Pump Fitting
WP12034B
Meziere WP12034B Meziere Water Pump Fittings


Home Depot Parts

1 - 3' Heavy Gauge Angle Aluminum (recommended over steel since it is under your car)
2 - 4" Bolts
4 - 1" Bolts
12 - Flat washers
6 - Lock washers
6 - Nuts
Locktite


First start with safety and make sure your car is supported with blocks, so there is no way the car can fall on you. I always use these paralambs from when i built my parents house.


Removing the existing Bosch pump
First start by unpluging the pump. Since you will not be needing this harness again you can just rip the metal spring off, and the plug will pull apart easy.


Now Remove the two bolts holding down the IC Pump to the motor bracket.




Next remove the hoses off of the pump and let the antifreeze drain out




Now that the pump is removed, we can continue by removing the bracket that holds the pump to the engine. This isn't really necessary, but it will make it a lot easier to work since it opens up a lot of space under there.

Start by removing the lower screw at the bottom of the bracket.


Next remove the two screws at the top of the bracket




Here is a picture with the bracket removed



Now we can start with the fabricating of the new bracket to hold the IC pump.


First start by cutting off a 6" piece of the angle aluminum. Place the aluminum in a vice to cut. I used my roto-zip with the rotary attachment and metal blade. Use eye protection here because aluminum shards will be flting everywhere.




Now de-burr the metal by using a grinder or file.


Check the to make sure the bracket fits properly.


Now make a bracket the exact same size as the first bracket.




Now drill two holes as shown in the drawing below. This will be your main support bracket that will be connected to the main engine support.



Now place the second piece of metal on top of the main support bracket and drill two holes through both pieces.


This is what the final piece should look like.


Now lets get started with drilling the Main engine support bracket. First take your main support bracket and hold it up to the main engine support. Mark the holes with a pencil, so you know where to drill. You are going to need to do the same thing for the other side of the main engine support since you will have to drill from both sides of the support.


Now that the holes are drilled, use the 4" bolts, washer, main support bracket,
main engine support, washer, lock washer, then nut. Use locktite here so the nuts will not loosen over time.




Now that i can't add any more pictures i will continue below

 

Too bad none of the pictures made it to the post...

 

why would u link over documents on your machine???? those are stored in the HD, and only ur computer can reach them

 

Now continued...


Now we are going to have to bend the second bracket a little bit so that the pump mounts upright, and not at an angle. As you can see below, i have put the piece in my vice, and used a hammer to slowly bend the angle a little bit.


As you see in this picture, it's only a slight bend.


Now you are going to have to cut two more brackets. I never measure these, but one is definitely going to be longer then the other. you should be able to tell how long you need them to be by putting the pump in place, and measuring with a tape measure. I have offset the mount so that the tubing down to my stock inter cooler is a nice and straight shot, rather then having to worry about a pinched line.






Once you have this piece put together, you can now mount it to the main support bracket. Don't forget to use locktite on all these bolts.






Now reconnect the hoses and tighten the clamps. You might have to get some hoses from pep boys. I had put an option b kit and dual pass end plate in, so i already had enough slack in the hoses to work with this setup.


Re fill your reservoir if you have the option b kit. If not refill from the small cap.


Now to wire the pump. This is not a big deal. You can reuse the existing wires from the old pump. The new pump comes with a harness which has a built in fuse. The blue wire gets connected to the black wire. This is your positive. Your negative is the black wire(from pump) which gets connected to the black wire with white stripe. I would suggest doing it the right way and solder the wire rather then using those easy crimp connectors. Then you can use either electrical tape or heat shrink to protect the soldered connections.


Now you are up and ready to go. You can tell that this pump is running. You can feel the vibrations and you can hear the pump. If you don't hear it, i would suggest checking the fuses. I thought something was wrong with my pump initially, but it was just the fuse. Hope you guys get some good use out of this. Sorry for the billions of pictures, but i hope they help.

Sorry, i messed up when i set this up originally, and i was just waiting on my post to get approved so i could go back and add the pics.

 

Thanks for fixing that, well worth the wait.

 

wait so whats the point of this? other than if u want a aftermarket pump for some reason?

 

The point is mainly for reliability and a little bit cooler temps going to your engine. These pumps come with a two year warranty and are rated for 3000 hours of run time. The stock pump is only rated for 1000hours. I replaced my stock one with this one because my pump had gone bad. Then when i continued reading on here i heard a lot of people having to replace their stock pumps often. So i was mainly looking for something that i could fix and not have to worry about it for a long time. I saw some other people tried this out, so i figured i would too. I don't regret it. My temps did drop a little bit when i went with this pump. I have a 2.8 pulley, option b kit, extra inter-cooler and a dual pass end plate and when i am cruising, i usually see a 20 degree difference between iat1 and iat2. I also have a feeling that the stock pump doesn't like it when you build up more pressure by adding extra inter-coolers or other devices. I think it may strain the stock pump to much which makes it more prevalent to fail faster.

Another user has also posted a different way of installing this pump. It is more simple then what i have done. I was going to do it that way at first, but then i would have had to add an extra loop in the tubing to get it connected back to the stock inter-cooler, so i found this way was the best to connect a straight hose directly into the stock inter-cooler. Plus i also felt there would be a little less vibrations and jerking around if it were mounted to the frame rather then the engine which i hope makes it last even longer. I have had it on there for over 5000 miles now with no issues.

 

thanks for the write up it helped me and my wife out a lot well...mostly her.....i have been wanting to do that pump for some time but didnt want to spend the money but now i have done a motor build and my stock pump took a **** so time to upgrade... thanks perfect write up. helped us 100%

 

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Umm, why not just get the pump that is used on the 03-04 Cobra? It's just like the OEM, but can be had for less than $100 at yatesperformance.com. Also, I have a friend working on a way to recondition the OEM pumps so that he can help some people save money.

 

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