All Engines: how to remove and install valve cover
06-06-2006, 02:25 AM
#1
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how to remove and install valve cover
hey i was looking at polishing mine and wondered if there was any specific way to take it of/put it back on.... any certian torque specifications? should i cover the motor with a cloth when i remove the cover?
06-06-2006, 09:55 AM
#3
I'm old school
1. Remove the induction box. There are two hose clamps, one at the flex pipe to air box, and one at the induction box to throttle body. There is also the crankcase breather line, held with a tension clamp.
2. Unplug the ignition module wiring harness. There is a small locking tab on the plug that you need to slide back first, then the plug itself can be removed.
3. Unbolt the ignition module. Lift the module from the engine. It will be snug due to the module being plugged into the spark plugs. Don't worry, just pull it up. Some of the plug wires (they look like short rubber tubes) might come off with the module, some might stay on the plug. Remove the ones from the plugs, put them back on the module, then set it aside.
4. On the left side of the engine, there is a wire bundle held in place by a plastic fastner pressed into the valve cover. Grip it with some pliers and pull it out.
5. On the right side of the engine, remove the bonding strap.
6. All that should remain are the bolts holding the valve cover on. Inspect to be sure.
7. When you remove (and reinstall) the cover bolts, you will want to do it in two separate passes. If you remove a bolt completely, you will unseat the rubber washer gasket from the cover. If you do, it's not a problem, you can just push it back into place. And since you are wanting to polish your cover, you'll have to remove them anyway. But if you want all the bolts to stay with the cover, do this: Unscrew each bolt until you notice the gasket start to pull away from the cover, then stop. Move on to the next bolt. Go all the way around until you are back at the first bolt again (don't forget the bolts in the center that where under the ignition module). Then go back around and completely unscrewing the bolts this time. It will make sense when you do it.
8. Lift the cover off. That's all. You now have access to your cam shafts by the way if you ever want to change those out. You shouldn't have to cover anything, just close the hood. The cover will have rubber gaskets glued to it around the perimeter and the spark plug holes. Leave them on, they can be saved. You should be able to polish the cover and clean it without damaging that gasket at all. However, if you do, it's a fairly cheap part, but a pain in the ass to clean off all the old glue that was holding in the first one. Also, if you still have your oil cap riser, that simply screws out with a quarter turn.
9. Installation is the reverse of removal. I don't have the torque spec for the cover bolts on me right now. If I find it I'll edit the post later. However, it's not much at all. Just snug them a little bit. The cover is not a high pressure critical seal.
2. Unplug the ignition module wiring harness. There is a small locking tab on the plug that you need to slide back first, then the plug itself can be removed.
3. Unbolt the ignition module. Lift the module from the engine. It will be snug due to the module being plugged into the spark plugs. Don't worry, just pull it up. Some of the plug wires (they look like short rubber tubes) might come off with the module, some might stay on the plug. Remove the ones from the plugs, put them back on the module, then set it aside.
4. On the left side of the engine, there is a wire bundle held in place by a plastic fastner pressed into the valve cover. Grip it with some pliers and pull it out.
5. On the right side of the engine, remove the bonding strap.
6. All that should remain are the bolts holding the valve cover on. Inspect to be sure.
7. When you remove (and reinstall) the cover bolts, you will want to do it in two separate passes. If you remove a bolt completely, you will unseat the rubber washer gasket from the cover. If you do, it's not a problem, you can just push it back into place. And since you are wanting to polish your cover, you'll have to remove them anyway. But if you want all the bolts to stay with the cover, do this: Unscrew each bolt until you notice the gasket start to pull away from the cover, then stop. Move on to the next bolt. Go all the way around until you are back at the first bolt again (don't forget the bolts in the center that where under the ignition module). Then go back around and completely unscrewing the bolts this time. It will make sense when you do it.
8. Lift the cover off. That's all. You now have access to your cam shafts by the way if you ever want to change those out. You shouldn't have to cover anything, just close the hood. The cover will have rubber gaskets glued to it around the perimeter and the spark plug holes. Leave them on, they can be saved. You should be able to polish the cover and clean it without damaging that gasket at all. However, if you do, it's a fairly cheap part, but a pain in the ass to clean off all the old glue that was holding in the first one. Also, if you still have your oil cap riser, that simply screws out with a quarter turn.
9. Installation is the reverse of removal. I don't have the torque spec for the cover bolts on me right now. If I find it I'll edit the post later. However, it's not much at all. Just snug them a little bit. The cover is not a high pressure critical seal.
06-06-2006, 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Halfcent
Also, if you still have your oil cap riser, that simply screws out with a quarter turn.
06-06-2006, 12:30 PM
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Originally Posted by REIGNftSOLDIER
^^^ do you really have air horns?
p.s.- id like to know this too
p.s.- id like to know this too
06-10-2006, 02:00 PM
#6
Senior Member
Originally Posted by Halfcent
Also, if you still have your oil cap riser, that simply screws out with a quarter turn.
I don't know whose idea it was to cover the engines with the ugly black cover. Its a nice enough looking engine; may as well let everyone see it.
06-27-2008, 06:22 PM
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haha dude remember the meet you helped me take tioff and i hit my head on the underside of the hood and then we showed cowboy how to take it off and he did the same thing? lol that was a good time.... thanx for the help bro. i might do it after i g2 mexico(the 10th-17th)
06-27-2008, 09:24 PM
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06-28-2008, 05:27 AM
#13
The cover will have rubber gaskets glued to it around the perimeter and the spark plug holes. Leave them on, they can be saved. You should be able to polish the cover and clean it without damaging that gasket at all. However, if you do, it's a fairly cheap part, but a pain in the ass to clean off all the old glue that was holding in the first one.
06-28-2008, 11:27 AM
#15
I'm old school
Two different gaskets there. There are rubber washer gaskets around the bolts that hold the cover on. These don't use glue, and never did. The other gaskets are the ones around the perimeter of the cover and spark plug holes. These are glued in at the factory to the cover. However, if you remove or replace them, there is no need at all to re-glue them back in. They will still in place normally when the cover is installed.
09-13-2009, 10:02 PM
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just out of curiosity does anyone know how to get the rubber fittings holding the screws and the contacts for the injectors on an 07 valve cover im getting mine podercoated and the rubber i guess they are compression fittings holding all of that on wont survive the oven for the powdercoating and also how would they be put back on would i have to buy new ones or would it just make more sense to find another valve cover somewhere else and have it done and just try to get the fittings out of that one. i was also wondering inf the fittings for the screws were really necessary or if the bolts could be put back on without them and seal it correctly. if anyone can answer this for me and maybe post up some pics showing how to get the fittings off that would be a great help.
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